I haven't grown melons in raised beds myself - not enough summer heat here for watermelon so close to the ocean :) But most guides would discourage you from trying at a depth of 12-14". That would support shallow rooted plants while watermelon are considered deep rooted at 24-36" ideal. Try searching 'raised bed depth watermelon' and you'll find many examples like the following... Here is a link that might be useful: One example, deep rooted plants in raised beds

Siberian roots and bearded iris rhizomes are 2 different critters. Yes. plant bearded's rhizomes with the tops of the rhizomes showing -- if buried they are more susceptible to rot. Drainage is vital. Siberians, on the other hand, can take more water and indeed need it when getting established. Does this clarify?

Hi, JamesonF. I too am from Wisconsin and planted some peppers back in January. In fact I just posted a similar question regarding one of my Ghost Pepper plants. I was wondering how long I can keep it in its current pot before something more roomy would be needed since it can't go to it's permanent home outside for another 8 or 9 weeks. I know depth is a concern since some containers do not drain real well and the standing water in the bottom will cause all kinds of problems. If it is a good draining pot with good draining soil, I would go with something about 6 inches or so deep and close to that wide. Many times when transplanting starters, I find they are rooted all the way out to the sides and it is safe to assume they would enjoy more room that way too. When i have to put my seedlings into the next sized temp pot, I am thinking I will go with something 5-6" wide and about as deep. I dont want to have to do another temp transplant before it finally warms up enough up here. Hope this helps but I am by no means a master gardener and last year was the first year I even grew hot peppers (Cayennes and Habs). This year I have several varieties but my Bhut Jolokia's (Ghost Peppers) are my pride and joy right now. Check my photo in the post just after yours. PS: The snow should be gone in a week if you go by what the weather reports are saying...yippeeeee.

Missouri Botanical Garden: "A tree trunk that emerges straight from the ground without any flare roots, like this ash (Fraxinus, referring to the photo below), usually indicates a tree that has been planted too deep and may develop girdling roots." Conifers do develop a very significant root flare with substantial tree size. I had a 3-storey tall Thuja removed and kept a 5" thick slice of the root flare, which now serves as a very nice base for a flower pot. Not all of my 5 conifers are 30+ years old, 2 have been newly planted this past growing season. The later planted conifer showed signs of growth before the earlier planted conifer did. The earlier planted conifer is a Pinus sylvestris cultivar on a 16" standard or so I thought. The 16" is measured from soil level, but from my later readings I gather that 16" is unusually short for a standard. Chances are that the standard is longer than 16" but how long is longer? Dig in the rootball, you say, but the rootball is clay, which is difficult to work with. However, after a very wet week this past autumn, I was able to depress the clay around the trunk by about 1" without damaging the beautiful bark. Still no root flare. I have no idea if a 2.5" caliper rootstock (possibly of the Pinus sylvestris species?) is supposed to already have developed a significant root flare or not. I will try to depress the clay by another 1" or more in the very wet days of late winter, and hope to at least get to the shallowest root. It is possible that I am overly concerned about all this :-) -------------------------------------------------------------------- Fraxinus planted too deep, may develop girdling roots - Missouri Botanical Garden