The vestibule seemed to be jumping off the screen so I had to draw it. I'm glad it worked out. When I look at a design I automatically reach for a pen and tracing paper. People make fun of the fact that I always have a half dozen different colored felt tipped pens in my pocket and don't know how they got there. My former boss would hold his hand out palm up and I would put a pen in it. I recently left my pocket scale at a client's home and have been so miserable I ordered a half dozen of them. Sometimes it helps to draw the plan by hand with furniture, people, feature highlights and circulation arrows. Plan weaknesses will quickly become evident and solutions will sometimes seem to jump out at you when you are free of hard straight lines, dimensions and the burden of keeping what has already been drawn. It also helps to turn the sheet around and imagine walking through spaces from another direction. It doesn't have to be pretty; it's only for you. Few of these sketches are kept more than an hour and often I don't look at them when drawing the final on the computer; it's just an exercise. IMO unless you're using up a lot of tracing paper you're limited to reorganizing other people's ideas and those ideas can easily get out of proportion and not fit together as well as they originally did.

writersblock I don't really know either. That's why I contacted the manufacturer. Their customer service people don't seem to know the answer. Most manufacturers put this information on the technical drawings, but not Maax. On the drawings for both tubs, the overflow center is listed at 17.5 but it's measuring from the base of the leveling feet, not the interior of the tub. And the center of the drain still has an inch or so below it (so the water would be at most 16.5 deep). When I asked the salesperson to clarify, they said the water depth on the Maax Pose tub was "about 20 inches" which has to be wrong. Seeking clarification, I contacted Maax directly. So far they have told me three different answers: 17.5" less than 12" about 14.5" I guess the 14.5 is the correct answer, as that sounds about right. I want a tub where the water is at least 17.5 inches deep so the Maax tub won't work. I'm now leaning towards the Lacey or Sydney from Hydro Systems.

It took me a month but I did call a glass company and the mirror is now gone! It was funny, I called around and got quotes for $200, $150, and $75. I asked the guy who would do it for $75 to come and do the job. I explained that it was 81 inches by 67 inches but I think his English was limited. He showed up today all alone! So he said, "That's too heavy for one person." and I thought he went to his truck to call in backup. He came back with his ladder and a suction cup and started to yank this huge 1/4 inch thick mirror off the wall. It popped right off with about 6 repositions of the suction cup. He asked if I wanted it in my garage. I said, "No, you're going to haul this away for me." He said, "No, I will cut it up and put it in the garbage." I was skeptical but I went with it. Then it was loose and he kept saying, "This is too heavy for one person. It weighs 300 pounds." So I watched as he cut the mirror into two pieces and lowered them to the floor. He cut those into long strips. Then he carried the strips outside where he found three trash cans on the cul-de-sac to spread the weight (it was trash day, yay!) and cut the strips into small pieces. The trash truck rolled by within the hour so my neighbors will never know that we borrowed their cans. There are some circles of mastic remaining on the wall, no big deal. The mirror was glued to the builder's original beige primer, so we know it was original to the house (1985). I have a painter coming in an hour to give me an estimate, I'm so glad it is not a huge mess for him. Thank you to everyone who weighed in on this project! I wanted to pick a paint color before I removed the mirror and that took me a month! We chose Benjamin Moore Concord Ivory- I can't wait until it's done!

This is for a new house, so there's no existing plumbing to consider. I know the pipes could be offset, like they do for wheelchair users, but that doesn't even seem necessary. All our cabinetry will be built by a local shop; our GC usually builds higher-end houses than ours, which I've seen, so I'm confident he has some cabinetmakers who can handle this. So, let me check my figures. If my 14" to the left of the center pipe is correct, we remove 3/4" for plywood carcass on that side, let's say a generous 1" on the left side of the drawers for their sides and clearance. And 2" on the right side for the drawer sides, 3/4" plywood vertical piece , and clearances. Frameless cabinetry, with undermount drawer slides. I've got 9.5" left as the interior drawer width. That is HUGE in that space. (Remember, I have 2 drawers now totally 8" and it's sufficient for my needs.) I think for sure I could have 8" interior dimension. And I'll have a stack of them. The ones below can be used by other people, since I can't reach them. jon: No offense here, but I don't understand why it would be difficult for a competent cabinetmaker to make this simple cabinet. What am I missing here? He doesn't have to make shaped drawers, like Blum's sink wraparound drawer. He just has to measure correctly. And he'll charge me more to measure accurately? Custom cabinet shops are surely used to building things a little different than what I can buy off the shelf. I guess if they want too much money, then DH, who is a relatively new cabinetmaker, can make it himself for a lot less money. He just finished one for another bath. I have furniture for him to build, so I don't want to sidetrack him on this project, but I can. And I can do the design work. This cannot be that hard. Also, the cabinet shop is getting the work for the entire house, with built-ins in kitchen, laundry, mudroom and 3 baths, including medicine cabinets and wall cabinets there. They should be able to make us a reasonable price on this.