skip to main content

Flooring Building a Home Remodeling

Engineered Wood vs. Solid Wood Flooring

10 days ago

What's your thoughts? Pros and cons for example.
We Keep going back and forth
We do have a small child, baby on the way and 2 dogs.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (10)

Alexa K
Original Author
10 days ago
I'm also a bit granola and would like an option that's zero VOV
Alexa K
Original Author
10 days ago
*VOC
Related Discussions
Old solid wood vs New Engineered wood
Q
Comments (6)
The old will be finished right at your home. This will take longer and be messier. But the results will be terrific. No grooves between boards (crumb catchers), the exact color you want with the finish you like. The existing floors will have great character and look great once refinished. Just be sure to match the species of wood: red or white oak. We selected traditional oak flooring finished in our home.
...See More
Engineered wood next to solid wood
Q
Comments (4)
Ok so it sounds like you have some good, solid professional advice - it’s always nice when you don’t get differing assessments and each pro says the same thing, usually makes it easier. That said, only you can know whether the perpendicular boards would bother you, but I would ask a different question: will it bother you LESS than the existing transitions and height differences? My guess is yes, and I think that once everything is the same level and finish you won’t even notice those boards. We have one that transitions to the tile in the entry from the living room and I never really notice it - and I can be rather type A about those kinds of things lol. I think your freak outs are normal, especially since you are under pressure making a lot of time sensitive decisions while trying to plan a move. Not the best of circumstances for being able to think clearly and not freak out. That said, there are always surprises to be found and things that weren’t noticed in the tours you did before deciding to buy, it’s inevitable once you spend more time in a house that these things pop up - even in GREAT houses. It probably is a great house, and if this is the only “surprise” you discover it truly is a gem and you should feel happy/lucky that it’s very minor and easily fixable. Take a deep breath and hire one of those guys to fix the floors and move on to the 1.3 billion other things on your list to do before you move :-)
...See More
Solid wood floors OR better grade engineered wood floors
Q
Comments (14)
A high quality engineered floor will have the same or longer wear life as a solid wood floor. This isn't usually a big deal in residential as you are talking at least 45 years of life... Engineered wood flooring can cope with changes in moisture better than a solid wood floor, but if you have a good HVAC system and monitor the humidity in your home, both will be fine. Solid wood floors are not recommended below grade, for example in the basement. Our standard 5/8" thick engineered floor will give you 3-4 sand and refinishes. This floor can be glued to the slab and will line up with carpet and most tiles. This means you don't have to drop the slab (money saver!) or use transition pieces. Some areas where it is very dry have had issues with the thicker engineered floors (3/4" with 6mm wear layer) as the plywood base dries out at a different rate to the wear layer. One of our clients (Flooring installer) in Arizona is replacing engineered with solid as it handles that climate better. Since it sounds like you are doing a remodel, you are probably best to go with an engineered floor. A 5/8" thick engineered wood floor from our company has a 4mm wear layer and will give you 3-4 sand and refinishes. This you can glue to the slab and will take up around the same amount of thickness as the travertine did. This means you will not have to replace the trim, cut off the bottoms of doors etc. Typically a solid wood floor is installed on a plywood sub-floor. On a new build the slab would be dropped on those areas to allow for the extra thickness. A quality engineered wood floor is not inferior to a solid wood floor in anyway. Once it is installed you will not be able to tell the difference. If you have further questions, feel free to reach out! We are only a email or a phone call away -- debbie@woodco.com // (210) 298-9663 Keep safe! -- Debbie George | WoodCo www.woodco.com
...See More
Engineered vs. solid 5" white oak floors/select vs. character
Q
Comments (10)
"What do you recommend for installation?" A true rift and quartered solid 5 1/4" only needs to be nailed (I don't like staples) providing you have the relative humidity in check in all areas of the dwelling. No need for gluing. That reference comes from plain sawn (regular) hardwoods. "Not a professional, but much of the "engineered" hate seems to stem from the past." Thanks sprinkles. There are still a good number of 'old schoolers' out there too that only want the real thing. Take your time and understand the differences. There can be a lot to know.
...See More
ShadyWillowFarm
10 days ago
You can refinish solid wood a few times, although if it’s a new install, hopefully not for a long time. Engineered is much thinner and less durable. Not sure how well mannered your dogs are in the house. The baby won’t care.
Alexa K
Original Author
10 days ago
@shadywillow. Thanks for your feedback. I thought engineered was much better for water spills ? I worry about that a bit with small kids
chispa
10 days ago
As with many things in life, there is a wide range in quality in both engineered and site finished, so I would be weary of blanket statements like "I thought engineered was much better for water spills".

Define "water spills"? No floor will survive large amounts of water left for long periods of time!

I have owned 3 houses (on full basements) with site finished red oak floors, in various shades of brown. The floors did well with kids and dog messes. Last house we had 3 dogs, two in the 60 lb range and they scratched the floors. You only saw it in certain light and I just considered it patina. Never had any issues with any of those houses when spilling a whole glass/cup with liquid. Grab some towels and paper towels, wipe up and move on.

Current house, #4, we built in FL on a slab, so we needed to use engineered. I picked a medium brown with some distressing. I also picked a Hard Wax Oil finish, instead of poly. Which is another topic, with very divided opinions.

We have been in the house for 16 months. Still have the 3 dogs. Very happy with the floors so far. The big dogs have made a few scratches by the back sliders, but they are barely noticeable with the texture and finish on the floors. Dogs have thrown up with no damage to the floors. I have spilled a full mug of scalding tea all over the floor and easily wiped it all up with some towels and no damage to the floors.

If I had to build another house tomorrow and I could pick any kind of wood floor, I would choose the same engineered floor we used in the current house.

Bring sample boards home. I tested them with a key to see how easily they could be scratched and how noticeable any scratches were on that particular finish and/or color.
cpartist
10 days ago
Depends on what's underneath the floor.

My floor is on a concrete slab and on a slab I wouldn't do anything but engineered. My floor here is 5 years old and still looks like new.
Franklin
10 days ago
Slabs require engineered because of the moisture in them. Engineered is far more stable in all types of home conditions across the US.
DeWayne
10 days ago
Engineered is not the "cheap" choice. A good quality engineered is always more expensive than solid wood, with a more predictable, and durable, finish. Good quality engineered can be refinished, but that ability is overblown. Most people move well before that 20 year time frame is up, and never tackle refinishing. But the next owner can, if needed.
likestonehomes
9 days ago
last modified: 9 days ago
Lauzon engineered floors. Kids, trykes, dogs, spills …3 yrs in
S H
9 days ago
Another option is site finished engineered. I think we are about to go this route as it seems to be the best of both worlds - the stability of engineered (plus one of our levels is on a slab) but the no bevel, fully customized option of site finished. We haven’t gotten our quote yet, but I do get the impression that it’s going to be more expensive than solid hardwood.

Related Stories

REMODELING GUIDES Your Floor: An Introduction to Solid-Plank Wood Floors

Get the Pros and Cons of Oak, Ash, Pine, Maple and Solid Bamboo

REMODELING GUIDES When to Use Engineered Wood Floors

See why an engineered wood floor could be your best choice (and no one will know but you)

FLOORS How to Care for Engineered Wood Flooring

By Amanda Pollard

Keep your wood floor looking its best with these tips and tricks from the experts

REMODELING GUIDES What to Know About Engineered Wood Floors

By South Hill Interiors

Engineered wood flooring offers classic looks and durability. It can work with a range of subfloors, including concrete

REMODELING GUIDES Light Wood vs Dark Wood

By Margaret Everton

See What Shades of Wood Can Do for a Space

SHOP HOUZZ Trade Pricing: Wood Flooring

Source real and engineered wood to lay a foundation that’s sturdy and stylish

0

REMODELING GUIDES Laminate Floors: Get the Look of Wood (and More) for Less

See what goes into laminate flooring and why you just might want to choose it

REMODELING GUIDES Your Floors: Zebra, Tiger, and Teak Wood, Oh, My!

Get the Pros and Cons of Exotic Woods: Hickory, Cherry, Rosewood and More

FLOORS What's the Right Wood Floor Installation for You?

By Toronto Interior Design Group

Straight, diagonal, chevron, parquet and more. See which floor design is best for your space

DECORATING GUIDES What Goes With Dark Wood Floors?

By Laura Gaskill

Avoid a too-heavy look or losing your furniture in a sea of darkness with these ideas for decor pairings

More Discussions

Sticker shock on doorknobs … would appreciate any tips!

34

Is high steep(About 70 degree) lot in downtown worth it?

38

61

Layout help needed-18×10 kitchen

13

What color grout for bathroom floor?

24