Loud sounds from Attic
Kb1001
10 months ago
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snobunyz24
10 months agokudzu9
10 months agoRelated Discussions
Lawnmower is making loud metal on metal sound when started
Comments (14)Hey guys, first post so please bare with me. I've got a 2009 John Deere LA125 with a 21 HP single valve Briggs. 108 hours clocked and my @sshole neighbor left some of his old barbed-wire out on the property line. I hit it, the mower didn't die, I put it in reverse and went along my business. 4 days later I started it up and at idle it made a metal on metal scraping noise. I thought maybe I had some of the fencing in the deck. Checked and all was fine. Blades are in good shape, I think...problem is I noticed at mowing speed I hear no sound. When I disengage and the mower sits at idle with the blade moving at an idle speed the noise comes...It happens at every deck setting...I've even spray painted the interior of the deck to see if there's a place the blades may be hitting. What am I missing? Thanks...See MoreInsulating/sound reduction in Attic
Comments (1)if you have soffit vents you should have a ridge vent and then,,no you don't necessarily need the gable vents on the ends. That being said noise doesn't flow like air so I don't think the source of your noise is through the vents. Do you have bat insulation in the attic? I'd suggest that to reduce noise transmission from the attic space. it could be wind noise coming through the structure. Without actually experiencing the situation first-hand it's difficult to propose remedies. good luck...See MoreHow to keep loud noise (aka advertising) from blasting at me
Comments (7)Well actually these are mainstream sites - including our local news stations and the local newspaper (their website) is the worst - as print media revenue declines they seem to be loading on the advertising. . Can you recommend name of an ad-blocker - preferably one that doesnt load a lot of extraneous other junk onto my computer....See MoreHelp-accoustics-loud loud noise
Comments (10)So many issues here. Sadly this should have been dealt with during the DESIGN phase of the house. It would have cost 50% more to upgrade the gym to a noise-reducing space. As it is, it is going to be DOUBLE (100% more expensive) to retrofit this space. To make this really work, you will need to get rid of as MANY of the hard surfaces as possible. The vinyl flooring has to go. A rubberized warm up area = useless when it comes to a room that has 6 sides (4 walls + floor + ceiling = 6 sides). A bit of rubber isn't going to do a darn thing. If money were no object and you are DETERMINED to deal with this properly so that you NEVER have to hear these noises AGAIN, here's what SHOULD happen: 1. Remove ceiling to expose the joists - remove any POT LIGHTS 2. Remove flooring to expose the subfloor/concrete 3. Remove drywall on the walls to expose the studs Yes...you have to expose all 6 sides of this space. The windows are in so you are going to have to give them some SOFT finishings (there are window coverings that allow some light in but are soft enough to reduce the ricochet effect off the the glass and back into the room. So...now that everything is exposed, you will add/pay for resilient channels for walls and ceilings. An appropriate ACOUSTIC DRYWALL will then be used for ALL walls and ceilings. Yes acoustic drywall = 3x as expensive as regular drywall (nope...not kidding...it is really that expensive) but it offers 3.25 x the ratings of normal drywall. Compare: Regular drywall = 5 dB of insulation whereas 3/4" acoustic drywall = 18 dB worth of insulation. Know: A human conversation (with 3 feet of separation) = 60 dB. You need to make this room 'noise tight'. I would then bring in $8 - $12/sf rubberized flooring for the ENTIRE room. Rubber is one of the BEST noise reducing flooring surfaces we have (other than packed dirt...and yes that is a flooring option). The ceiling will be have spray foam acoustic insulation applied between the joists. The wiring for NON-POT lights brought to the surface of the acoustic drywall. The holes created for the wiring will then receive it's own insulation to ensure there is no 'leaking' of noise through the hole in the ceiling. Whew! Had your Architect figured this out WELL BEFORE the first bit of concrete was poured you would have saved THOUSANDS of dollars (just the ripping out the current finishings and then reinstalling/painting/baseboard is going to cost thousands). No...sadly Architects do not implement acoustic design unless PAID to do so. Even then they will bring in an acoustic expert to help set up said design....See MoreKb1001
10 months agoTravis Johnson
10 months agoShadyWillowFarm
10 months agoKb1001
10 months agoworthy
10 months agolast modified: 10 months agoDeWayne
10 months agowoodbutcher_ca
10 months agoDavid Cary
10 months agoVirgil Carter Fine Art
10 months agoKb1001
10 months agokevin9408
10 months agoDavid Cary
10 months ago
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