Thanks Rina. I am pretty sure it has been from all the direct sun then. They may also be thirsty. I'll move them to a different location and check their water level a bit more often. I also wonder why so few leaves. I would love to encourage thicker stalks but I'm not sure how... I've been removing some new growth to start on their own but maybe not enough? (Also, I originally posted using the website rather than the app which may have been the reason it wouldn't let me upload a picture. I tried multiple times. Once I installed the app, my picture loaded immediately. Again sorry for the duplicate!)

Sarah I grow most in plastic pots (terracotta are heavier...) But if it is very humid, there could be fungus. For serious fungus, there is a fungicide that could be used (I never used it, so can't speek from experience). I would also consider oedema: it happens when plant takes in more water then it can transpire. This is a physiological disorder, not a disease. I would first repot into more inorganic mix and as I suggested, perhaps reduce number of plants in a pot. I would prune all those lanky, leafless parts off. You could prune plant quite severly, it will regrow. Here is example: old, etiolated plant on left, pruned on right: New growth on pruned plant (I pruned off that branch growing toward center, with many leaves, too): (I could have pruned it even shorter, but will probably split the stems at the base.) Plant above is in full sun from early am untill about 1pm now. It grows healthier and much more compact.

It's critical the pot has a drain hole, and using a tell to 'tell' you when it's time to water would be an excellent addition to your care regimen. Al Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al

Hello everyone, my Jade Plant hasn’t been doing well! Over the summer it started to shrivel up. Here is the info: The green leafed picture is from August when someone told me I should water it less. I started watering it less, but still once a week because it was so hot and dry. Now I haven’t watered it since mid to late November. My mom told me it likes the shade and I just put it in a shady corner about two weeks ago. Now it looks like the reddish picture. -What can I do? Water it more? Stop watering it? Repot it? Take it inside? Does it like shade? also I just repotted it maybe a year ago now