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I am using dr earth "Liquid Solution" this year. It is 4-4-4 i believe and partially water soluable. I am thinking I may also supplement with some soft rock phosphate for the additional phosphate and calcium as well. Can't say how well the Liquid Solution works as I just started using it. I believe it is going to work better than the fish emulsion i was using as that was primarily nitrogen (4-1-1). John

Here are most of what I have in my garden this year. Each name on the list is at least a slightly different strain, though the names may be similar, and represents 1 to 6 plants. My biggest problem is I have so many different types of tomatoes growing from crosses going back over a decade, in some cases, that I just don't have room for all of them. MOST of the crosses I have aren't even represented in this year's crop, because I can only work on a few dozen every year. Obviously, some of those I list here are also commercial hybrids, OP varieties or Heirlooms. I grow them either because I LIKE them, and I want something standard, or I want something to compare to what I am growing, to see how mine stack up. I generally do it that way every year. One problem I find in growing out the crosses is that sometimes you will go along with a 'new' strain that looks promising, growing it for several years, and then the next year it changes (as you bring out recessive traits) and takes a step back in color, size, flavor, or some other characteristic, and I need to go back to seeds from a previous year and try to again bring out the traits I liked. As you can see, among other things, this year I am emphasizing some EARLY strains and some cherry tomatoes, trying to see how they stack up. 4th of July Amber Sweet (a cherry I am developing) Andalusia H 4B1-2 (From tomatoes I got in Spain) ARGG Black Krim X Galinas red S4-G (in development) Black Krim X Galinas (Red H) (in development) Black Krim X Galinas Red 3B5-6 Black Magic (in development) Box Car Willie Brandy X Polish M5-S Brandy X Polish F3A H Brandy X Stupice Brandywine Cherry Brandywine OTV Brandywine X Kotlas Brandywine X Polish H. PL 5A3-4 Brandywine X Polish PL 5A7-8 Brandywine X Stupice Capitan H Cherokee Chocolate Cherokee Green Cherry Master (in development) Comandante Zero (in development) Dulcinea Med Red (in development) Dulcita Small Red F4 (Smaller seeds than Dulcinea) H 4A7-8 Early Goliath Early Wonder Galinas X Black Krim Yellow (in development) Galinas X Black Krim Yellow (strain #5) Garden H 4B5-6 Green Zebra Isis Candy Islas Canarias (from tomatoes I got in Spain) Kotlas Little Lucky Lucky Cross Lucky Cross Pink Marianas Cross F4 Lg Red Cherry Marianna's Peace More Capitan 1 5B5-6 New Black Plums (F3 growout) New Yellow Cherry Oh My Pink Heck (Medium) (in development) Orange H (in development) Orange Meaty medium sized tomato from Mariann's Peace and Jaune Flamme cross. Purple Russian Racimo de Espana (another one from Spain) RED Beef F3 Red H (in development) Red Large Beefy (in development) Rescue H 5B3-4 Rose Quartz Small Black Cherry (from 2010 cross) Sunfire? H Super Sweet 100s Super Sweet Yellow Pear (in development) Super Sweet Yellow Pear F3A (from 2012) Super Sweet Yellow Pear F3B (from 2012) Sweet Orange Golf Ball (from crosses I made) Sweet Yellow Gold F4 (From Galinas x Black Krim H 4A5-6) Yellow H (in development)

While it is really somewhat questionable to plant seeds from what are almost certainly hybrid tomatoes, since what you get may be a formally edible but unexciting fruit, it should be understood that planting seeds straight out of a plant is not optimal for germination. Mature seeds should be fermented, by placing them in water with some of the pulp and left in a warm place for a week. Then wash off the icky stuff and dry. Tomato seed harvesters know this strategy well. Here's why. When seeds mature, they are naturally encased in a protective gel coating. This is the slippery coating around seeds when they come out of the fruit. That gel coating has a hormone called abscisic acid that actually inhibits germination. That's why when you crack open a mature fruit, the seeds aren't all already sprouting! Microbial fermentation is an easy way to break down that gel, metabolize abscisic acid, and allow germination. Not all seeds have this protective gel. Solanacea and Cucumis commonly do. Some may say that, hey, I can plant mature seeds without fermentation, and they grow fine! That's because sitting moist in soil, especially anaerobically, the gel will break down naturally, But it will require more time, and may not work completely. That gel is natures way of making sure that new seeds don't sprout in the winter, but will wait a while, ideally until spring. FWIW, fermentation can also kill off disease spores.