What Varieties of Hot Peppers Should I Grow?
westes Zone 9b California SF Bay
10 days ago
last modified: 10 days ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (9)
Related Discussions
Hot Peppers and Bell Peppers growing well in the same system?
Comments (16)Of course you can make it any size you see fit, and using any materials that are easily available to you. Though I think 6 inches wide will probably do, I would opt a little wider 8-12 inches wide. Here's how I planed to build mine. First plywood would be stronger, but OSB board would be cheaper and still strong enough. It runs about $7-$8 for a 8x4 sheet around here. I plan the inside diameter to be 12 inch deep, about 12 inch wide, and 8 feet long. Make it as long as you want also, 8 feet is all I need. Though I plan to build 2, set them parallel with each other about 5-6 feet apart, and place a A-frame trellis between the two trenches. You already have your trellis. To strengthen the box structure, I plan on running 1x2's (they run $0.84 ea here) along the outside for added support. You can use 2x4's but would be about 3-4 times the price, and 1x2's should be enough support. For a trench box that long, I would probably run one horizontal row of 1x2 along the top and bottom of the box. Then periodically place vertical pieces between them. Here in the desert I need to insulate the roots from the heat, you probably wont want to do this part, especially if you are going to have the trench in the ground. My trench is planed to be on top of the ground. The inside of the box will be lined with probably 2 layers of 1/2 inch (or 1 inch) thick Styrofoam sheet insulation. Glued in with PL300 foamboard adhesive (it's made specifically to glue Styrofoam insulation to wood and construction materials. Then I plan to line the inside with vinyl sheeting. I don't know if Low's or Home Depot carry it, but ACE hardware just down the street from me does. They have 3 different thickness that run from about $3-$6 a square yard (in one yard widths). For the inside diameter I plan, it should just fit nicely without even overlapping it (except the end pieces. I plan to use 100% silicone to seal the ends and glue down the vinyl sheeting (as well as all corners and edges after the Styrofoam is glued in). Fish pond liner would be just fine, and plenty durable. I don't know how much it runs, but I think I will look into pricing that as well. For the drain I plan to cut a hole just big enough to run a pvc tube through the wood, and a little smaller than the wood hole in the Styrofoam (for a snug fit). Then glue it to the Styrofoam with the foamboard adhesive. Then run beds of silicone, and screw in a pvc connectors on both sides of the tube and snug it down. Making the lip of the connector on the inside of the box as short as possible (but still durable), so as much water will drain out as possible. I may decide to have more than one of these drains per box. But if one side of the box is raised a little, the water should flow nicely to the side with the drain/s. Because the heat and sun is so bad here on things. I plan to paint the outside of the box with a roofing material. I forget what it's called, but it's white, thick, durable and flexible. They use it on rooftops for reflecting the suns rays (overall cooling the building). That will also add another layer of insulation for the roots for me (reflecting the heat). But I need to find somewhere where they sell it in one gallon buckets. The 5 gallon buckets are way more than I need, and it's not exactly cheep (a one gallon should run about $10-12). That should protect the wood from moisture if you plan to bury it in the ground as well. However there is another material for that also, but it's black. I forget what they call that also, but they use it to protect walls that extend underground so they don't absorb moisture (like basement walls, underground stairways etc.). I don't know how much it runs, but you will want to protect the wood from ground moisture if you place it in the ground. And products like Thompson water seal wear off and need to be reapplied regularly. Once the box is ready, I plan to simply place a section of inexpensive furnace filter screening ($2, I just cut the screening material out of a inexpensive furnace filter) on top of the drain holes. Then I will place a layer of rocks on top of that to about 2 inches deep along the bottom of the trench. This will hold the screening in place and help with drainage all the way through the box. Then just fill with the growing medium and plants, setup the drip system. You should have a very durable planter box that will withstand the weather and you can use year after year. ....See MoreHAVE: Have 100s of varieties of hot and medium hot peppers
Comments (5)Heya, I'm very interested in your pepper plants, particularly: t. scorp morough, bhut jolokia and douglah. Do I happen to have anything listed that you like? I'd love to do a trade. Erica...See MoreHow often should I fertilize hot peppers?
Comments (4)I would suggest 1/4 to 1/2 the recommended strength MG 15-30-15 every 2-4 weeks. Wish that I could give you exact figures, but most or many of us that container grow with artificial fertilizers do it by 'ear' or perhaps 'eyeballing' describes it better. You will learn by experience how to read leaf color etc for how often to fertilize. It is in my opinion much better to err on the side of under-fertilizing. Put in a larger pot to start with. Try to disturb the root system as little as possible. I would go to a one gallon container or at least half that....See MoreHow stable are hot pepper varieties?
Comments (7)DMForcier, Edymnion - Thanks for your replies. I now realize my ideas are obviously unrealistic. I just thought that based on all the variations I have been seeing, maybe peppers are by nature highly alterable and adaptable. I figured if I do the opposite of my isolation efforts and let them cross every season I might get a pepper variety more suited to my needs and wants. What I really desire are super hots that would be dwarfed and would produce earlier for use in shorter growing seasons. Obviously desirable traits for up here in Minnesota. I still have the question of why I am seeing so much variation in the varieties - is this normal? Or is this the result of growers I received the seed from not isolating properly over one, several, or many generations? My seeds this season came from several commercial sources as well as several hobby growers, so this can not be blamed on one disreputable seller. Examples of variation I am seeing: I have a tobasco chili plant that is larger than the norm, has larger immature yellow pods rather than green, pods are maturing later, has darker foliage. Plant is vibrant and healthy. Some of my chocolate hab plants have pointed pods, some have smooth round pods, another one has large oblong roundish fluted pods. All nice healthy plants similar in size and appearance. Most of my caribbean reds have the classic hab-shape pods, but two plants have larger oblong round pointy pods (which are much more desirable to me). The dorsets and bhuts are all over the place regarding sizes and shapes of pods. Some have light green to yellow-green immature pods that mature to orange, most have nice dark green immature pods that mature to red. All pods have that nice wrinkled appearance. All plants are healthy. I do not mean to make a big deal about this. I have been growing sweets and chilies for years but I am new to growing the super hots and I just do not understand why I am seeing so much variation, and I am wondering if this is the norm or what. Also, I do not know what to do regarding seed saving and from which plants to harvest seed and how to categorize. Thanks for any input, -Tom...See Morewestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
10 days agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
10 days agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
9 days agolast modified: 9 days ago
Related Stories

GARDENING GUIDESSummer Crops: How to Grow Peppers
Some like 'em hot; others like them sweet. With the incredible range of peppers available for home gardens, you can have your pick
Full Story
GARDENING GUIDESYes, You Can Grow an Edible Garden on a Hot, Dry Site
Difficult garden spots don’t need to deter you from planting trees, herbs and other delicious food plants
Full Story
EDIBLE GARDENS8 Delicious Strawberry Varieties to Grow at Home
Discover our top choices for easy-to-grow plants, high berry yields and deliciously sweet strawberry flavor
Full Story
SUMMER FRUITS AND VEGETABLESSummer Crops: How to Grow Beans
Grow your own beans for amazing variety and healthy, convenient produce all summer
Full Story
GARDENING GUIDESWelcome Sweat Bees to Your Garden Throughout the Growing Season
Look before you swat! These friendly sweat bees will feed on your sweat on a hot summer day, but their main buffet is flowers
Full Story
EDIBLE GARDENS10 Delicious Heirloom Tomatoes to Grow This Summer
Irresistible heirlooms offer outstanding flavor and variety. Choose from a rainbow of colors in all shapes and sizes
Full Story
FRUIT TREESHow to Grow Your Own Juicy Plums
Easier than other stone fruits and with a variety of colors to choose from, plums are a versatile garden addition
Full Story
EDIBLE GARDENSSummer Crops: How to Grow Tomatoes
Plant tomato seedlings in spring for one of the best tastes of summer, fresh from your backyard
Full Story
GARDENING GUIDESGrow a Beautiful Fall Garden in a Pot
Welcome autumn with 7 gorgeous plants that thrive in containers and enliven your porch or patio throughout the cooler season
Full Story
SUMMER GARDENINGHow to Grow Basil
Bright color, quick growth and endless uses for cooking make this summer annual a winner in the garden or a pot
Full Story
CA Kate z9