I think you need some professionals on board. I’m not one, but at first glance, you have a lot of interior framing going on thar isn’t going to function well. The mudroom should have direct access from the garage, it’s pointless to have to step in after coming in from the garage. The pantry and prep area can be combined seamlessly and the fridge goes in there. I don’t know what the idea behind the upstairs closet area is, but it’s not a good design. It’s going to be a dark tunnel of weirdness.

Believe it or not, the floor plan is almost the easy part, as the evaluations and roof get tricky to get to all work in concert with each other. I am afraid you do not know what you do not know. Since this will be huge investment in dollars, do the right thing for your hard earned dollars and hire an architect.

I love that the mud room is adjacent to both the front door and the garage.

@ Rachel Lee and millworkman We did hire an architect in the past but it did not work out well. The cost of an architect here is 10-15% of the tot cost of the house. The house ended up being too big and expensive. Also because each iteration to get to a final floorplan was charged by h the cost became unreasonable. To avoid this, we will hire eventually an architect or draftsman and of course a structural engineer BUT at a later stage when we have a floorplan we already like. Anyway this is not the point of my post.

At this stage I am looking for obvious flaws in the proposed design and learn from the experience of the Houzz community .

So back to the floorplan:

In detail:

- the "mudroom" is not a mudroom in the strict sense of the word but rather a room between entry and garage where to store shoes, jackets, stroller etc. This is a common design in the area. I know this is not a classic American design but - maybe because we were born and raised in Europe - we like it!

- @ Rachel Lee "The pantry and prep area can be combined seamlessly and the fridge goes in there" Not sure what you are suggesting here or what you do not like with this design. Can you be more specific? Fridge need to be close to sink and cooktop (triangle rule) so it cannot be moved in a "prep" area. Also pantry needs to be a separate room to hide the content. The fridge in the current design will be encased between walls so a deep fridge instead than a counter top depth fridge can be used.

- Any idea how to improve the design of the closet room will be useful!

The closet area is indeed not optimized but rather is filling the remaining available space. I have constrains in width which cannot be increased ( setbacks ) and I like simple "boxy" houses for energy efficiency. However there is a window in the corridor so I would not call it a "dark tunnel of weirdness". The professionally designed closets most time do not have a window at all!

- @ Rachel Lee "a lot of interior framing going on thar isn’t going to function well.": is there anything else besides the pantry and closet area?

- @ auntthelma : thank you for you positive comment :)

" The cost of an architect here is 10-15% of the tot cost of the house. "

Think of the cost of doing this wrong. An architect accept bringing in your own floor plan. You will be invested in your plan and he will never get you where you need to be. It will do nothing but hinder your attempt with the architect. Bring a bubble diagram and your list of wants and needs. You need to have a realistic budget and dictate this budget to the architect, as an absolute.

Given your “constraints” this is not a bad plan. I would expand garage depth wise if you can’t add widthwise. It’s small especially for larger vehicles. My first impression was “too many walls”. But since you are from Europe (we lived in Brussels for 3 years) I understand the European home designs are to “compartmentalize”. Just keep “resale” in mind. I would suggest opening up the master closet to one large space with an island drawer and bench seat set up. Double rods along the perimeter would provide lots of hanging space. Very smart to set up stacked spaces for future elevator. I would get it in at build because it’s so valuable for functional reasons of all kinds. We loved the one we put in our home and is the one thing we miss most in our current home. You will need space either in attic or basement for the electrical systems. Make sure you understand those specifics. At some point, you will need a architect to help with roof and elevations as stated and have full plans for permits and compliance with all national and local regulations and codes. I can’t tell from your current drawing about kitchen details but do keep a good min of 42” around island to peripherals. Again, from a resale point of view a “counterdepth” refrigerator is much preferred in the price range of your new build. As a minimum, arrange cabinetry so future buyers could remove and install wider counterdepth refrigerator. Personally, I like your idea for drop space (mud room) as you have laid it out. I would get either a design/build or a good local architect involved pretty quick. They have relationships with local government entities that will be overseeing your project. This is crucial to your timing and success. Best of luck.

I think the window sizes and locations are going to make the exterior look pretty weird. You need to design the inside and outside at the same time.

Excellent idea to try and figure out as much as possible beforehand of the floor plan and get some ideas before bringing to architect or draftsperson. They can fine tune it but it may save some time and money with the back and forth. One quick thing that I noticed is the door into the powder room could be moved to the wall and swing up against that wall so the toilet won’t be in the sight line from the dining room

@ Meredith Otto the plan is to contact next a design-build firm, a professional drafter, or (if they exist) an architect with reasonable charges. I have a background in engineering (not a civil engineer) so I can easily build a 3D model and save something there

@ Deanna thank you for your encouraging comment and great idea about the P/R door. Smart and easy to implement!

@ blueskysunnyday the position and size of the windows can be easily modified and will require a 3D model of the house at a later stage to be able to see how it looks. Anyway you need to start from a model and then iterate.... this is why I am trying to do first iterations by myself before hiring a pro

A lot of hallway space in my opinion, agree that the mud room placement is weird as the exterior door is outside the mud room, but if you like it… kitchen windows have odd placement as does sink- what are you centering iton, seems off center of the island. Master closet is a bit of a mess. Laundry room is petite. I think you’ll save yourself a lot of mistakes if you hire professionals.maybe a slider in the kitchen? Vs 2 swing in doors? Are you mechanicals lined up first floor to 2nd ?
Good start, I think you need some refinement. Best of luck

@ Flo Mangan ppl like you make Houzz so special :) This is the kind of constructive feedback I was looking for. Let me try to rearrange the closet and I will get back with an updated design. For the fridge, yes we ideally would want an integrated countertop 46" fridge but to be conservative we might go with a cheap temporary fridge and update over time. The recess would allow us to do so.

First floor thoughts:

- Take out the wall between the foyer and the dining room /allow the two to flow together. It'll allow for easier seating around the table and will make both rooms feel larger.

- Consider moving the half bath to the front so it can have a window.

- Alter the mudroom so the garage door opens into the mudroom ... this'll force people to walk through the mudroom /drop their things, and it'll keep the exterior door hidden from view.

- This staircase is large and expensive ... be sure you're harnessing the space underneath for storage. Even if it's half-high, that's a lot of storage space.

- The dining room is a long way from the kitchen. Consider how many steps it'll require to bring a meal to the table /then clean up afterward.

- I'd think twice about 10' ceilings ... it's too high for comfortable human proportions. It also necessitates larger /more expensive windows, window coverings, kitchen cabinets (that's the biggie), and doors ... and it means higher heating /cooling bills and a longer staircase with more steps to climb.

- Since you're looking at floating your furniture in the living room, definitely install a couple floor outlets.

- Is the garage 20' wide? (I can't quite read everything on the plan.) 24' wide is considered comfortable, if you intend to park two cars. Ask my friend who has to stop and let her kids out of the car before she drives in /parks super close to her husband's car so she has space to open her door.

- I'd like to see a broom closet (actually on both floors) for your vacuum, etc.

Upstairs thoughts:

- I'd go with a glass door or single French door for the laundry room. This would allow some light to flow through to the staircase and keep the upstairs hallway from being dark.

- Consider moving the dryer to an exterior wall. This will allow it to vent directly outside ... cheaper to build /more fire-safe. This would also remove the washer/dryer from the wall shared with a bedroom ... and would make the bedroom quieter.

- Could you flip-flop the laundry room and the upstairs hall bath? If so, it'd allow the bathroom to have natural light, and it'd make the bathroom more convenient to the second bedroom. It would also place the laundry closer to the master bedroom.

- The two secondary bedrooms /closets are unequal ... if you have a second child, will this be okay?

- Too many doors entering the master bedroom. Unnecessarily fussy ... you could remove that wall /make the bedroom a little larger, and it'd still be divided from the closet.

- I'd like to see a linen closet to service the two secondary bedrooms.

I am afraid you do not know what you do not know.

Eh, you're not wrong.

I don’t know what the idea behind the upstairs closet area is, but it’s not a good design. It’s going to be a dark tunnel of weirdness.

True. The darkness can be fixed with motion-sensered lights, but why so much closet space? It's a lot to maintain.

My first impression was “too many walls”. But since you are from Europe (we lived in Brussels for 3 years) I understand the European home designs are to “compartmentalize”.

Agree that an American eye doens't like all this "compartmentalization". Where are you building?

kitchen windows have odd placement as does sink

True. I'd rather see one nice-sized bay window over the sink in the middle of the wall-counter run.

I understand that hiring an architect is quite expensive, however so is building a house that has a lot of wasted space. I would want to re-design the second floor. Perhaps a different staircase arrangement would give you more options. While my child would absolutely adore playing hide and seek in that closet, I hardly need 30 feet of hanging space, much less in such an odd configuration. I definitely don't want a window anywhere near my clothing - I learned that lesson at 21 with a brand new interviewing suit... I'd also be hard pressed to build a new 2700 sf 3 bedroom that really is a 2+, as the 3rd isn't big enough for a second child or pleasant guest room. If it's just right for you that is okay, but it seems like there could be more efficient use of space. Unlike others I do like walls and some separation though. :)

IMO I garee you do not know what you do not know. Designing a home starts with the plot of land it is going on , then function which IMO starts with a trip from garage to kitchen with groceries. The exterior needs to be deisigned with the interior they are always designed together to make it perfect. To be penny wise and pund foolish is never a good idea. I do not like kitchens open to LRs I see no real purpose in a butlers pantry unless you have butler the kitchen design needs some work and a prep sink belongs in the kitchen and near a fridge .So no matter what get an independant kitchen designer for sure.

@ Mrs Pete what can I say, thank you for such a detailed feedback!

See my answers in italic below

First floor thoughts:

- Take out the wall between the foyer and the dining room

I like to see an entry room before a living room when I enter a house, but what you say makes sense, I will definitely think about it.

- Consider moving the half bath to the front so it can have a window.

I want to keep the mudroom in between entrance and garage

- Alter the mudroom so the garage door opens into the mudroom ... this'll force people to walk through the mudroom /drop their things, and it'll keep the exterior door hidden from view.

If I do that the extra door into the mudroom would significantly reduce available space in the room.

- This staircase is large and expensive ... be sure you're harnessing the space underneath for storage. Even if it's half-high, that's a lot of storage space.

This is a switchback stair that lead to basement as well so no storage. I am thinking to use a Paragon monorail stair that is about 20K/floor so it is not cheap!For the stair leading to the basement I would use regular stair if the combo looks ok

- The dining room is a long way from the kitchen. Consider how many steps it'll require to bring a meal to the table /then clean up afterward.

It is a formal dining so not planning to use it for everyday meals

- I'd think twice about 10' ceilings ... it's too high for comfortable human proportions. It also necessitates larger /more expensive windows, window coverings, kitchen cabinets (that's the biggie), and doors ... and it means higher heating /cooling bills and a longer staircase with more steps to climb.

Wife has already decided this for me :) For kitchen cabinets we are going to use only lower cabinets so that mitigates the issue.

- Since you're looking at floating your furniture in the living room, definitely install a couple floor outlets.

Excellent point!

- Is the garage 20' wide? (I can't quite read everything on the plan.) 24' wide is considered comfortable, if you intend to park two cars. Ask my friend who has to stop and let her kids out of the car before she drives in /parks super close to her husband's car so she has space to open her door.

Unfortunately due to setbacks I cannot have a wider garage :(

- I'd like to see a broom closet (actually on both floors) for your vacuum, etc.

The plan is to use the elevator space for that, if we will need to install an elevator at a certain point I guess the broom will not be the priority at that point or we will need to find a plan B.

Upstairs thoughts:

- I'd go with a glass door or single French door for the laundry room. This would allow some light to flow through to the staircase and keep the upstairs hallway from being dark.

I completely missed the light issue, yes good point. A light tube might also help here.

- Consider moving the dryer to an exterior wall. This will allow it to vent directly outside ... cheaper to build /more fire-safe. This would also remove the washer/dryer from the wall shared with a bedroom ... and would make the bedroom quieter.

I am planning to go ventless nevertheless this is a good point.

- Could you flip-flop the laundry room and the upstairs hall bath? If so, it'd allow the bathroom to have natural light, and it'd make the bathroom more convenient to the second bedroom. It would also place the laundry closer to the master bedroom.

Let me work on this! I could also add a window to the bathroom in its current position (there is no garage on the2snd floor)

- The two secondary bedrooms /closets are unequal ... if you have a second child, will this be okay?

we have only 1 child and the smaller bedroom will be used as an office

- Too many doors entering the master bedroom. Unnecessarily fussy ... you could remove that wall /make the bedroom a little larger, and it'd still be divided from the closet.

Good poijnt! That small desk will be used as my office space so separating from the bedroom would help. Also, the house is designed so that it could be extended on the right by adding a corridor where the desk is placed now.

- I'd like to see a linen closet to service the two secondary bedrooms.

That would be good. Right now broom and linen would be in the elevator room.

I don’t know what the idea behind the upstairs closet area is, but it’s not a good design. It’s going to be a dark tunnel of weirdness.

True. The darkness can be fixed with motion-sensered lights, but why so much closet space? It's a lot to maintain.

I am not concerned about darkness but the layout can be improved.

My first impression was “too many walls”. But since you are from Europe (we lived in Brussels for 3 years) I understand the European home designs are to “compartmentalize”.

Agree that an American eye doens't like all this "compartmentalization". Where are you building?

Bethesda, MD

kitchen windows have odd placement as does sink

True. I'd rather see one nice-sized bay window over the sink in the middle of the wall-counter run.

I have a tree wall 10 ft from the windows so light is stronger high on the ceiling, that's why I was thinking to place few slim windows close to the ceiling to maximize lighting.

@ lharpie thank you for your feedback!

OK so no window in the closet which makes sense to me. I agree the master closet needs improvement, working on it!

The 3rd bedroom is really an office space. If we really need extra space, the house is designed in a way that we could add extra rooms behind the garage on the right and above the garage but not planning on it in the short term! Other option is to finish the basement.

You like separation! You are a rare specie in USA :)

Would you keep the wall between entry and dining room?

Closets can have windows, they need uv film to protect contents and possibly coverings to protect privacy.

@Patricia Colwell Consulting thank you for your suggestions.

The prep sink is actually intended for a coffee station (grinder, espresso, etc.) rather a than an actual food prep place. I heard this "garage to kitchen with groceries" thing already to the point that my architect suggested a separate independent corridor just to save 30 s from garage to kitchen. As a European, I find this a crazy obsession honestly.

I’ve always lived in older homes that have a large arch or cased opening from entry to DR or LR. i like that it delineates the room but still feels open. i would not want to get rid of wall completely because i don’t like walking directly into a living area, and as drawn entrywY may feel small.

for larger 3rd br i was largely thinking for resale value (again as you have the sf just isnt being used well).

@ harpie yes, I believe that a case opening would provide the perfect balance, thank you!

Ok here we go with the second iteration! Thank you all for your precious feedbacks :)

I modified the second floor substantially. To expand the bedrooms I had to introduce a 2 ft cantilever on the front. I know that 2 ft is feasible but not sure about the cost. Please let me know your thoughts! PS: If you are wondering what is next to the WC in the second bathroom, well that's a bidet :)

Not a bad start but give more thought to the stair and natural light. Great stairs connect a house. Poor stairs disect it. And what about the elevations? Normally everything is designed simultaneously. Your methodology reminds me of a thought by Steve Jobs: “People think it's this veneer — that the designers are handed this box and told, 'Make it look good!' That's not what we think design is. It's not just what it looks like and feels like. Design is how it works.”

@ Architectrunnerguy I placed the stairs in the center and rooms in the outside to maximize light into the rooms. On the second floor light to the stairs arrives from the glass door in the bathroom the large door in the laundry room and the corridor next to the elevator. If that's still too dark I can place glass doors in the closet facing the stairs and LED lights on during the day to mimic natural light from a window. Of course I can always place LED lights in the corridor as well on IR sensors.

By the way I am an engineer, so I am all about functionality first. What does not work in this design? The house will have a flat roof on the left-south side for installing solar panels. The house will be boxy by design to minimize heat losses and houses in this area are all boxes anyway to maximize SQ footage in relatively small lots of about 8000 SQFT. Window placement still need some work but I can finalize that later when I have a 3d model of the house.

I think this is much improved! Office can now be multipurpose if ever needed. I would still move closet door to bedroom - not sure why you would want to go to hallway to get to your clothing? I would also want windows on 2 walls in master bedroom, and possibly in the others as well. I would not want pocket doors to bathrooms as I always find them fiddly at best.

@harpie thank you! See below: is this what you are suggesting?

- Only drawback in moving the door to closet room is that I lose a bit of shelf space but you are right about the flow.

- I also dislike pocket doors but is it ok to have the bathroom door swing toward the tub?

- For the windows I did not put much tough into them but I do not want too much light filtering into the bedroom when I am sleeping. :)