Thanks for the replies! baymee, the radiator in the picture is the one in the bathroom which works VERY well. The one in the bedroom is giving me the problem and it is level. Mr Havac, I've bled the radiator both with the valve opened and closed. I don't know what temperature you would consider as "overheating". With all the radiators opened it will be around 73-75 degrees in here on the second floor, probably 3-5 degrees cooler on the first floor (no insulation between floors, old building). There are a lot of old people in my condo so I assume they want to keep it warm. Out of all the things you mentioned, why would just one radiator not work? All the others work perfectly fine. None of them have the isolation valve left opened, I just bleed them once a year. My next project in the Spring will be replacing the auto vents so I don't have to worry about bleeding them, but for now I would just like to get the bedroom radiator working. Things such as "a faulty relay, a bad flow check, t stat out of calibration" would effect just one radiator in one unit of the entire building? I am not responsible for any maintenance of the boiler. I am on the board of directors of the condo association and brought this problem up at our last meeting. All the other board members agreed that thair heat is working fine and the problem is with my one radiator, which is my responsibility.

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Steam heating is the most expensive form of heating known to man: All the steam pipes must be 212+, and there are huge "transmission losses" as a result; if you don't maintain the traps, you get steam condensing in the condensate piping, increasing the transmission losses. Service life on the boiler should be at least 35 years, but you should save a lot if you stop using steam. The thing to remember about heat pumps is they're cheap heating-cooling systems; they're designed to use electricity efficiently, not to provide good heating comfort in cold weather. Expect widely-fluctuating air outlet temperatures when it's below freezing outside. If you can live with that, then I'd think a heat pump would be a good option; unfortunately, you won't qualify for the electric heating rate, so you'll be buying at the regular winter rate. The attic is unheated, relying on heat rising from the lower floors, right? I don't see how that would change, assuming you continue to heat the lower floors to the same temperature you're using now.

Andy, I understand your frustration. Hydronic heat specialists are getting more difficult to find, I understand. Just be glad that you don't have steam. If you ever decide to replace the boiler, your engineering background might help. There a several variables and lots of calculations that need to be done to be sure you end up in a working envelope -- water temperature, heat loss from the structure, heat transfer via the radiators, circulation rate, temperature drop in the individual loops,... You could have a new hobby. The boiler heads in those two fora will be able to help you out a lot, I think. Someone there, maybe several people, will know that boiler well. Just tell them you are tired of the excess heat and give them your boiler and indirect hot water tank details. Be sure to ask them about scheduling the boiler on and off when it is only needed for water heating. Look at that this way, if you have your boiler off 16 hours a day while working and sleeping during the week, and 8 hours on Saturday and Sunday, you've solved nearly 60% of your problem. The flue can go in two ways and depends on what kind of boiler you have. There is subtlety that I am skipping. Condensing boilers have low temperature flue gas, and use plastic pipe going horizontally out of the side wall of the house. They are usually using outdoor air for combustion eliminating another heat loss point. Condensing the steam means heat recovery from that steam that used to leave boilers up the chimney. Now it runs down the drain after giving up its heat. All old fashioned residential boilers used to be non condensing. They will have a metal flue pipe that goes up to the roof line in some kind of double wall, insulated metal, or a metal joined to a masonry chimney. The problem is a mismatch between boiler and flue. Obviously a high temperature boiler will melt/burn plastic pipe. I've never heard of that happening. Exhausting wet (and acidic) flue gas in a masonry, or inadequately corrosion resistant chimney will cause a much slower failure and that happens even though it should not. Particularly bad are very old, unlined masonry chimneys no tile liner. The acid gets to the mortar and eats it up leaving gaps. Sometimes, with a change to a more efficient condensing boiler, a plastic flue can be installed within an old-fashioned chimney and go up through the roof if going out sideways is not convenient or not eye-pleasing.