Thanks, I have several of the Heartnut and Butternut seedlings that I hope will start blooming consistenly in the next few years. planted in 2000? and most of them have obtained pretty good size, Hopefully they will produce here. What age have others experienced with nut grown seedlings to production age? I observed a few catkins on a tree last year, so hopefully thier blooms will align with the Carpathian.

It's a good thing to be concerned because in zone 7, English ivy will be invasive. I'd urge you to reconsider this choice for any number of reasons. Ivy harbors rodents, especially in any sort of urban/suburban environment - they find the dense network of vines and stems extremely suitable housing and cover and I have yet to be involved in any kind of ivy eradication project that didn't turn up scores of rats. Aside from having these undesirables residing so close to you, there are other environmental and health issues arising from their excrement and dust accumulating. And while you may be able to control it successfully - do you really want to take on that much unnecessary maintenance?? - there is no guarantee others that may come after you will do the same. And control of a large area of ivy is not always as easy as one might think - any flowering or fruiting must be eliminated as birds will spread the stuff despite whatever methods you may employ to restrain it. Ivy is really not a great accompaniment to a mixed border planting - it is difficult to walk on, so pathways or other means of access will need to be planned and maintained free of the plant. It grows and spreads rapidly and will easily choke out other, more desirable plantings so you will also need to maintain a clear border between it and the more ornamental planted areas. Improving soil conditions to encourage a lawn is not all that hard - any soil can be improved and a soil that has a high percentage of small rocks and stones (3" diameter or less) is no more harder to till and improve than one that is heavy clay. The rocks should actually help to reduce compaction once you have added some additional organic matter, as they encourage spaces between the soil particles that allow for water and oxygen penetration. Adding a quantity of coarsely textured compost will help immeasurably. Compaction will occur anywhere there is much foot traffic and as lawns are regularly travelled by feet, lawn mowers, kid's play, etc., compaction is ongoing and will need to be addressed regularly with core aeration. But even in adequately improved soils turf grasses will not flourish in much shade and you may want to find an alternative for these areas. There are any number of shade tolerant and even evergreen groundcovers other than ivy that could work - pachysandra, vinca, lamium or liriope or dwarf mondo grass just to name a few. Finally, it might make sense to think outside the box and reconsider the design of this area. Is a planted covering the best solution or would hardscape work better? A wide paved area in front of your planted areas would allow for easy access and provide for a better display. Crushed stone/gravel or pavers can be used or even a coarse mulch like wood chips. You could consider a larger paved seating area or terrace in the shadier locations as well to provide a destination. Or expand your planted areas and reduce the amount of ground cover of any type that may be required. But back off from the ivy. It is not a good choice.

The late(d.2012) John H. Gordon offered 'Covel' Manchurian - probably as grafted specimens and also as seedlings; don't think that the family carried on his business after his death; see link below. Ernie Grimo(Grimo Nut Nursery in Ontario) doesn't specifically list a Manchurian walnut - but may have 'Covel' or other selections. If you're wanting to try it, I'd contact Ernie; if he doesn't have it, he may know where to get it. I'm thinking that I'd seen something in print about the Morden Agricultural Research Center, in Manitoba, doing some work with Manchurian walnut - might be worth contacting some of the folks there for more info. Here is a link that might be useful: John 'Nuttree' Gordon nursery

We live in eastern Washington (five miles from Idaho) and have a zone 4 garden....with zone 3 on the edges. Lots of snow and the wind chill can really be rough, so zone 3 is the safest bet, if it's very far from the house. Another issue you may have to deal with is deer. We have a few and they are very good about not eating the roses....if they're up against the house, not too tall, and surrounded by herbs! That being said, it's something to think about, when you plan your garden. I love roses, especially mixed in with other plants! Canadian roses, some of the rugosa hybrids....and if you can plant near any kind of wind shelter (or by the house) you might have some luck with a few damasks, like Celsiana. Floribundas and some shrub roses do well in zone 4, as do some Gallicas. Celsiana.... Snow Pavement is a Rugosa hybrid and very hardy.... As for shrubs, potentillia is a nice, small shrub. I don't know if it will give you the English garden look, but it blooms all summer and is very forgiving. I like lavender....but Hidcote is the hardiest for me and that's really a zone 4. Walker's Low Catmint will give you a similar (slightly larger) effect...and it's zone 3 :) There are also lots of clematis, daisies, coneflowers, bulbs, fruit trees and other plants that will do well in zone 4...even to zone 3. Lilacs are wonderful and they are very hardy! Full disclosure...none of these pictures are from my garden, but they will give you a good idea of what they look like, especially at their peak. Have fun with your garden :)