Fruit trees are pruned much differently than ornamentals and for entirely different reasons. It's not the removal of the leader that concerns me (the central leader is almost always removed when pruning many types of fruit trees), but the possible severity of the pruning. It sounds like this guy may have tried to catch up on 10 to 12 years of pruning all at once (which is not a good thing). It's hard to tell without a picture (and maybe without a before and after picture) whether the tree was properly pruned. If it were my tree, I'd post pictures in the Fruit and Orchards Forum and ask them for opinions and further maintenance pruning suggestions. Water sprouts (the limbs growing straight up) are a result of the pruning. They will need to be removed and/or trained into a more horizontal direction. Again, advice on accomplishing this can be found in the Fruit and Orchards Forum. I've been wanting to write a set of basic fruit tree pruning instructions for a while now, but still haven't started that project. There's lots more info than I could type out in one sitting.

Thank you golfgeek. Our contractor doesn't want to hire another subcontractor because he paid them , so he wants them to fix it. The problem is , we don't think these guys are experienced, but we can't force our contractor to hire someone else. The representative from MARBELITITE said he would gladly show up to supervise / advise on the day they resurface. Would it be a fair compromise on our part to insist they chip ALL The existing plaster out since there are so many rough, thick and bumpy areas? We are not professionals , but it seems common sense that they will attain a better and lasting result if they start on the original gunite. Is that an accurate assumption on our part? It would be terrible if they replastered over this and botched it up again

Here is what I would do... Keep it about 1" off the ceiling and leave a gap to get light above the fixture to make it look like a feature. Play with the gap between the face board and the angled board until you have a bit of light coming from the top but not too much. You will not be able to see the line set and plumbing pipe unless you are 8' tall. Use some reflective material or mirror effect paint on the angled board to redirect more light down. Use integrated LED tube lights for the light source and attach it to the face board or very high on the silver surface to really hide the tube from below. This is really not an elegant solution but if done correctly it will hide the problem in something that looks like a rational and intentional design decision.

Those are called mullions or muntins. They are repairable, if you have the time to do it yourself or the money to hire someone else to do it. Depending on the age of the room, it may be cheaper to replace the windows and frames, but they look so lovely on the inside, it's a shame not to repair them. Do some internet research on wood repair, or buy some books on how to do it. There is a famous book called "Working Windows: A Guide To The Repair And Restoration Of Wood Windows" that explains how to repair old windows. There is a lot of good info on the Old House forum here.