If the second sub made it "better", I'd hate to have seen just how bad your floor looked after the first guy. Honestly, I think that is the single worst floor staining job I've ever seen. The builder might want to find out from the first sub exactly what brand of stain was used then contact the manufacturer. It may be possible to chemically strip the stain out of the floor. I had never heard of chemically stripping stain but someone on this forum recently posted about an issue they'd had where builder accidentally put exterior stain on their hand-peeled interior log posts and, after contacting the stain manufacturer, they found out that the stain could be removed chemically. I'm linking below to her thread. If the stain can't be removed chemically, I would imagine that the only option is to sand the floors down till they reach fresh wood and then start over. I do hope your builder steps up to the plate to fix this. But, if he tries to either deny that this is his responsibility or attempts to convince you that your floors are fine and that you're being too picky, ask him if he would be happy if you posted his NAME, his BUSINESS NAME and business address along with these pictures (and a picture of HIM) on this forum and on every other home-building forum you can find on the internet. I know I WOULD NEVER hire a builder who had left a previous client with such a mess. Good luck. Here is a link that might be useful: GW thread about a similar stain problem

I had already bought the Minwax gel stain to try, so I did it on a piece of trim over the weekend (spare piece, not attached to cabinets). I did 2 coats, but it doesn't look very dark. Just stained. If you guys are leaving it on longer, are you just allowing that "coat" to harden enough where it won't wipe off? Does it not scratch easily? Even with the top finish? Hope the OP doesn't think of this as high jacking her thread. I've read the other threads, but still not convinced this is what DD2 needs in her home.

When I got my bid on the cabinets, I didn't even know that I was getting the poplar. I just found out by calling him 2 weeks ago when someone asked. I am doing the cream color painted at his site, but am having much difficulties choosing the color. He's been waiting for me to pick one; so, I haven't seen the finished product. What color are you considering? Are you glazing it as well?

Some more thoughts on making lemonade from lemons . . . check out the Barn Room (ceiling), Barn Room Loft (walls and ceilings) and Kitchen (ceilings) at the blog: fortheloveofahouse.blogspot.com This blog meticulously details the renovation and restoration of an old New England farmhouse in New Hampshire. I know it's not your style but the ceilings are worth checking out. The kitchen ceiling is painted but the Barn Room and Barn Room Lofts are white washed. They also stained the walls for the Barn Room Loft. The author of the blog, Joan Ross provides of the staining, white washing process which I copied and pasted below. I know overall the decorating style isn't what you're after but at the very least it's a starting point for experimenting with color options and techniques. Barn Room Ceiling: Pine boards were stained using Minwax Water based Wood Stain in White Wash Pickling stain. Use a staining pad to apply two coats (both full strength). These coats were not wiped off. Barn Board Stain: Stains are: Sherwin Williams Woodscapes in Semi-transparent (an exterior stain with low voc's that can be used inside.) This is a two-step process. The first coat is Charwood #3542 applied full strength with a staining pad (much easier than using a brush) and the product is not wiped off (as many stains are.) The second coat applied after the first has fully dried is Blue Shadow #3531 in a 75/25 mixture. 75% is water and 25% is the stain. This coat is also applied with a staining pad and is not wiped off. That's it! It's that easy. Here's the Barn Room ceiling: Here's a the Barn Room Loft Ceiling and Walls Here's the kitchen ceiling painted