You don't have to mix bulbs. You can solve the flickering issue by removing the limiter from your ceiling fan. It's not that complicated and it's not the big of a hazard. A limiter is there just to shut the power off if the wattage goes over capacity. The ones i just removed from my new ceiling fans were 300 watt capacity, but some are 190 watt. They are all different. It doesn't matter because if you are using CFL bulbs they only pull like 13-14 watts a piece. If you have 4 that's only 52-56 watts. The fan will operate fine. Just make sure you DON'T remove the capacitor. To help distinguish the two take a look at this sight. Remove these: Limiters(Harbor Breeze) Scroll to the bottom of the page. http://www.eceilingfans.com/pc_boards_-_ceiling_fans.html DO NOT REMOVE THIS: Capacitor (Harbor Breeze) http://www.eceilingfans.com/capacitors_-_ceiling_fans.html So to remove the limiter, cut the 4 wires off the limiter and strip the ends and twist them together and put a wire nut on the end. Don't just tape it, go to the hardware store and get a 14-18 awg wire nuts, install it then tape it. Fires get started by people who try to half-way a job. Connect the whites together, then the black and blue. And you are done once you put everything back together. No more flickering, and you'll notice the Cfl's will come on faster because the electricity doesn't have to travel through the limiter anymore. It might seem like a really complicated job, but it's actually very easy. I'm sure your husband can do it. As far as dimmable CFLs go, They do make them now. BUT, you have to buy a special CFL dimmable switch, AND CFL dimmable bulbs(They will be marked on the package). Lowes carries these. Hoped I helped. Here is a link that might be useful: What limiters Look like( Bottom of the Page)

I can assure you that it's not a short. I don't mean to hurt your feelings or anything, so I hope you'll take this in the spirit intended - a constructive one. A short circuit is a very specific failure. Depending on where it occurs in the circuit, it may result in the opening of a fuse or a circuit breaker if these devices are properly installed, but it can also cause a fire or injury if they are not. Or, it may mean that a light won't turn off. My point is that calling nearly every electrical failure a "short" often demonstrates that one has no idea what a short circuit is. As the old saying goes, it's better to keep one's mouth closed and appear ignorant than to open it and remove all doubt. ;-) When you're describing such a problem as this to an electrician, I suggest that you detail the symptoms as thoroughly as possible, and let the pro draw appropriate conclusions as to the cause. Again, please don't take this the wrong way. I tell you this in the hope that it will improve your relationship with any electricians you hire, by enhancing their respect for you. Now, back to your problem. There are lots of unanswered questions here. Did this start recently, or has it been a problem for some time? If recently, can you associate it with any changes in your house or your neighborhood? You say that multiple branch circuits are involved. How many? Do all lights on all circuits flicker all at the same time, or is each circuit doing its own thing? How old is your house? Is any part of it wired with knob and tube? Do you have any large appliances that cycle on and off while unattended, such as water pump, septic aerator, sump pump, water conditioner or purifier, basement freezer or refrigerator, etc.?

I have the exact same issue but performed a few different troubleshooting steps that were not mentioned here. To begin, this is a rental home built in 1972. All aluminum wiring with some copper for lighting overhead that was updated in 2009. My washer is brand new, LG high efficiency & overpriced. I’ll add that I have a matching oversized LG gas dryer too. They both plug into 1 receptacle with the a top and bottom outlet. This is wired back to the breaker box as 2 20 amp circuits. They share a neutral wire. The circuit breakers were old and not joined with any bar that physically connected the two switches into one so that one off makes both off. The receptacle was old, loose and burnt up some. And even more concerning, the tab on the line (right side) was not broken to properly separate the top and bottom circuits. Luckily I didn’t find out the hard way. Although the panel was not labeled/correctly, I went through process of elimination by turning everything off and then testing one breaker one at a time and matched to outlet(s)& lighting it controlled. I assume that someone replaced this laundry receptacle at least once in the distant past and forgot to break the right tab. I replaced the receptacle with a new 20 amp outlet and broke the tab on the right side only. There is a red & black wire (on right with tab connecting top to bottom removed) and one shared neutral wire that is white (on left with tab intact.). It is also grounded of course. I also replaced the two circuit breakers in the box with new and specifically for this type of setup. It has the bar that physically joins the switches for off and on. I also checked and tightened all neutrals in the panel. But even after all that, the damn dimming still occurs when agitating. I should add that all my lighting is LED too. Here is the last important clue that I would think others could try too. I was doing some laundry and it had just started to agitate and dim like always. Just as a temporary measure, I paused the cycle & then hooked my washer up with an extension cord to another nearby circuit. It’s about ten feet away and it’s a heavy duty cord but was my last straw of an idea to check & was not a permanent arrangement. Anyways, the washing machine worked fine and there was no dimming throughout the entire cycle. I left it like that for a few days and it continued to perform without dimming the lights. Additionally, this dimming would occur whether the dryer was also being used or when it was off. Keep in mind that they share one neutral. I tested both the top and bottom outlets and the readings all indicate a grounded correct setup. There is no open neutral. I still don’t know why it does this but believe it is definitely related to wiring, not machine. Perhaps i also need power company to come out like person above had when their issue was resolved. I’m moving to purchased home in a matter of weeks so the landlord can decide how to proceed from here. just to give you an idea of the mess this was....

If it is only a mild blink and the lights don't dim a lot, and there are no other symptoms of a problem, then it probably is ok. Mine has done that for years with no apparent ill effects. Be alert for smells or noises from switch or receptacle boxes, or flickering that is not caused by the printer cycling on and off. I would look at what is on the circuit and not load it heavily. You may need to shut down the computer, turn off the breaker for a test, and make a list of which lights and receptacles are dead so you know what all shares the circuit. Don't use space heaters, vacuum cleaners, and other big appliances on that circuit while the printer is cycling and you'll be ok.