I can only give you the same advice as what you'll find in all the other "what is wrong with my tomato plants" posts here. The 'what you need to do' (treatment) is the same regardless of which bacteria or fungus is causing the problem unless it is Late Blight. And since you say the plants look good otherwise I strongly doubt it is Late Blight. Are you using a good fungicide on them as recommended? You should be. Weekly per the label instructions of whichever one you choose to use. Why are you leaving the affected leaves on the plant? That only makes the problem worse and spreads it. They need to be removed as soon as they develop and disposed of out of the garden. How long have the plants had this problem? Is it getting worse or staying the same? Contact your local county AG extension office and ask if Late Blight has been ID'd in your area. If so then that is a good indication of your problem and the plants are quickly lost no matter what you do. If not, then what you do is spray the plants, keep them cleaned of damaged affected leaves, improve the air circulation around and through them, and keep them going with lots of TLC care until you can harvest. Good luck. Dave

Hi Jack, Are you new to growing Sans? My suggestion is not at all a knee jerk reaction; it's my intuitive attempt to contain spread of whatever is causing the spots of whatever that is. Why are you using a pebble tray under your Sans? Bad idea for succulents. If water overflow is allowed to accumulate there, this could be keeping the roots & lower soil too moist, making the environment undesirably hospitable to bacteria, rot, fungus, all these type of problems. I would not use coir for these plants, I'd expect it'd be too water retentive. I'm somewhat familiar w/ coco coir having used it some years ago in my Hoya mixes (I don't use it any more). If you must use it, I'd mix it 50/50 w/ Perlite or Pumice; it needs one of those amendments. Otherwise, I think it's slower draining than you think.

Check the backs of the leaves for spider mites. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it. A summer outdoors in shade does wonders for these.

It looks like the larger of the leaves is mostly mechanical injury. You can see witness marks where the large leaf was folded, which caused the compromised veins which limited water/ nutrient flow leading to the necrotic spots, though over-watering can't be ruled out entirely as the cause of some of the other lesions, especially in the smaller leaf. It's unlikely it's a bacterial infection. Bacterial infections are usually moist and limited in their spread by venation (veins). The image of the smaller leaf doesn't show clearly if the lesion is bounded by venation, but bacterial infections aren't that common. I read up a bit and think it could be bacteria or fungal infection. So far I’ve sprayed it with copper fungicide spray and watered with a root support treatment. And cut off most of the leaves with the spots. I don't know what's meant by a root support treatment. But the efforts were likely unnecessary or aimed in the wrong direction. Leaf loss could easily be due to the reduction in the light load as we approach the dark days of winter, or could have been caused by over-watering. Watering is an important skill. If you're following the oft repeated advice to water when the top inch or two of the soil is dry, then it's highly probable you're over-watering .... unless your pot is less than 5" deep. More important is what moisture levels are deep in the pot, at the bottom. To monitor moisture levels there, a "tell" is very useful and much more informative than a digital device (finger) or a cheap water meter. The idea is to insert the "tell" and read what the tip tells you moisture levels are at the pots bottom. See more below. If you can water correctly (so you're flushing the soil when you water) and effectively control moisture levels, and are fertilizing appropriately, the 2 remaining issues would be light levels and temperature. The plant needs lots of light and, ideally, wants to be grown in the 68-78* range. If you wonder about fertilizing, please ask. It's very important that containerized plants are provided with appropriate nutrition, as the nutrients are essential for keeping the plant's systems orderly and they serve as the building blocks from which the plant creates its living parts. You might find this piece I wrote about Long Term Care of Ficus in Containers helpful. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Questions?