I thought I accounted for chairs by pulling the table out 2' from the wall. But I see what you mean; if someone was seated; I"d only have less then 3' left as a passage. Doable, but not perfect. I'd infrequently use the entire table pulled out. Yea... I was trying to come up with an alternative with the kitchen on the left because of the plumbing issue. But I just wasn't loving it. I feel like it would really help any design to access that 10' of uninterrupted wall. The DW is currently very close to where I showed it in this design and the sink only a few feet down further to the left. I thought it might be easier/cheaper for that kind of move. I guess I won't know till we are ready and price it out. Everything is still up in the air with the home. BF has tried to get ahold of the guy we offered the house to but haven't heard back yet... kinda weird.

I am fully aware of which wall is which. What you may not be aware of is the existing conditions that might restrict your project, rather than just playing around with unrealistic layouts. First, an evaluation needs to occur on the financials of going through the cost and trouble of an addition making a 3bedroom a new 3bedroom. With the front elevation, the "4-square" I refer to is the proportion that exists (RED & PINK), and attaching an addition (GREEN) without adhering to the composition of the front elevation. So maybe the addition needs set back as a possible solution. With the "view" wall, there is the roof of the existing Master which makes an addition a challenging prospect of tying in a new roof (GREEN & ORANGE). With the plan and structure, your initial sketch does keep the existing BLUE wall intact, which your "erased" drawing didn't. Stepping back the wall above, to retain composition of the front elevation, would require a beam in PURPLE. The plumbing for a Master (in RED) as shown in your initial sketch would need to consider the ceiling below in the Dining Room, as would any structure needed to transfer an unknown roof layout down through the 1st floor. These are things with a multitude of variables and solutions to those variables, things that it appears you don't know what you don't know. It is not a bad thing, just that it would be prudent to involve an architect instead of doing layouts that will give you unrealistic expectations of what you can do. Good luck in your journey.

The way you have it laid out, the cabinet feels awkward, However, is this to scale? The only way for me to comment on a cabinet or actually, all of the other featurues is a to-scale layout with measurements marked. If in fact this is to-scale, I say "no: to the cabinet. However, you could add storage all along that toilet wall, it would just be shallower than what you are showing. I don't know how much space you have there. Shallow space is often very functional in a bathroom. (rolled towels and toiletries)

@Sena01, yes that type of storage is exactly what I was thinking about for cookie sheets, but do you happen to have a vertical dimension for any of them? I wanted to see if I could fit them under the wall oven without its being too high. The mixer lift…I think probably not; it’s not that big a deal for me to lift it up on the island, as long as I have a cabinet there to store it in. If I add up all the numbers on the south wall, I get 209, at least if I added correctly. There are a couple of places where I sort of randomly put in 2” (like around the fridge) because I wasn’t sure if those sidewalls would need extra reinforcing. @Joseph Babcock, you are probably right about the position of the sink, but I really dislike them in islands (I know this is a personal foible.) plus I truly use all the available space on the island when I am baking, especially Christmas cookies and I can see the back yard from the sink’s current position.. When the oven door is down & I’m taking something out of the oven, I just have to pívot to my left and the island is right there for hot things. Same applies to the microwave, situated above the oven. Since the front door is on the same side of the house as the garage door/back hall and we have no young children at home, that “back” opening to the kitchen only gets used when Mike and I are bringing in groceries, but I can see how it might be a problem if more people lived here. @Patricia Colwell Consulting: thank you for your advice. I did not realize that Houzzers such as yourself would think that my previous specific questions on lighting placement and vent adaptation to a vaulted ceiling would be considered as the same subject as the oven height and cabinet layout, although you are certainly correct in that it is the same kitchen. My apologies. I perhaps erroneously assumed that the title of the former posts would prevent anyone from reading a separate question further down in the comments. I created the drawings posted, not a cabinet designer, so if you want to blame someone for faulty design, please feel free to blame me. This is only the second time in my life that I have done it. I realize that some people prefer their spices in drawers; I prefer mine at eye level in an upper cabinet. I used to have my oils in a narrow upper cabinet by the cooktop, but with the larger hood, I’m not sure that’s possible; I’ll look again. I think I allowed 4” between the hood & upper cabinets, but I would have liked 2”. I’m not sure how narrow cabinets or drawers can be before they look “off”. As it is, the difference in height between the uppers and lowers seems off-balance me, although that seems to be the style. The space in the middle of the kitchen has worked well for me when I have had multiple people cooking or setting out, as in community Christmas cookie baking and potluck dinners. I would probably feel differently were I the only cook in the kitchen or if I had’t lived with U-shaped kitchens most of my life. I thought I had drawn mostly drawers on the lowers, but perhaps that wasn’t clear or I got confused at the end about how many drawers versus cabinets to have. I need at least a couple of lower cabinets for the tall stand mixer, iced tea jar, and tall dry dog food containers. And maybe for the slow cooker and the tall stock pot? The induction cooktop specified no drawers under it…seemed weird to me. I don’t know if I drew the drawer under the oven tall enough for cookie sheets (14 x 17) but I know that I want the oven high enough so that I don’t have to bend over for the middle rack. Finally, although you are undoubtedly right about the wisdom of hiring a kitchen designer, between the contractor charging triple what insurance allows, having had to replace my car (totaled by Ian’s flooding) and a failed (but unfortunately very expensive) contract with a designer—not a cabinet salesperson, by the way—I don’t feel that I can risk any more. Right now, we have just gotten drywall. I need to come up with a kitchen plan because even if I turn it in tomorrow, we won’t get it until mid-June. I understand that what I end up with may not be a kitchen designer’s ideal, but I am working under constraints—on a slab that local plumbers have advised not to rip up for plumbing changes, with a basic layout that should its footprint change much would involve ripping out and replacing the tile throughout most of the open-plan house, and I’m trying to get back in our house before the next hurricane season starts at the end of June. Any help in doing that is much appreciated.