Nice overview. I would also recommend BACI's hydroponic FAQs for more detailed information. These are available by doing a search in this forum for "FAQ".

different plants have different requirements so it's not unusual to see different levels of performance from one plant type to the other under the same conditions. Also remember that soil chemistry can vary from spot to spot depending on what has been applied there in the past, what has been grown there, how much it has been watered,etc. There is also just natural variability in the soil. A soil test can give you a general idea of the average chemistry if you do a composite (grabbing soil from a bunch of spots and combining it into one sample) but you still have some variability. Another thing to consider is that anything that has a negative impact on root function can inhibit nutrient uptake and can contribute to the appearance of deficiency symptoms. Things like root disease, soil compaction, root pruning, etc. Over watering and under watering can also negatively affect nutrient uptake. If you add some compost, ensure that the soil isn't compacted and their are no disease or pest issues and soil moisture is sufficient without being excessive, and the trees don't respond in a reasonable amount of time, then maybe thinking about adding manganese specifically.

Over-fertilization: wilting, leaves curl down, plus brown burns at tip. Decade ago when my toddler sprinkled too much NPK 10-10-10 granules on my tomatoes, we got fat tomato worms for the first time ever (excess nitrogen & phosphorus attract pests). We had 1/10 the amount of fruits, plus leaves look like below: Too acidic: TOP LEAVES CURL UP. Tiny & pale and thinner leaves, bronzy leaves. Fungus: blackspots & rust & mildew. See below my Mustead Wood when I put too much acidic pine bark and acidic gypsum: Too alkaline: Pale upper branches. Note iron deficiency in upper leaves, plus zinc deficiency in older leaves (blotchy yellow) of below pic. Too alkaline with upper leaves twisted like witches broom (boron def). Too alkaline, iron def: pale UPPER leaves with green veins. See below with both iron (pale leaves) and copper deficiency (brown & dry spots) Too alkaline, zinc def: Short plants with a reduction in internodes length and leaf size. Leaf edges may be distorted or puckered and yellowing between the leaf veins, see below: Too alkaline, copper def: crinkled leaves, young leaves are dark green but twisted or misshapen, often with brown, dry spots. See below: U. of Colorado best describes zinc deficiency: "Plants tend to be stunted due to a shortening of the internodes. Leaves show a general yellowing of the upper foliage with a browning or bronzing of the older or lower leaves. The leaves of zinc-deficient typically have a crinkled appearance. A general downward curl of the leaves also will occur and flowering will be poor." Potassium def: Less blooms, balling, thin & weak stems, and blackspots, plus lowest leaves have yellow edges, then progressing to brown edge. Below is potassium deficiency in Teasing Georgia since I put too much lime in the pot. Too much calcium induces potassium deficiency. I reversed it with high-potassium fertilizer, note below new growth is normal: Calcium def: less petals, stunt growth & tip die-back & wilting top shoot, see below wilted shoot on Abraham Darby in 92 F, the growth is too fast, but there's not enough calcium. SOLUBLE calcium is known to help plants to cope with heat. Note below: young leaves are distorted, with curled margins and tip or with brown spots. Calcium def. is caused by low pH, below happened after a day of heavy acidic rain, then high temp: Nitrogen def: small leaves & pale LOWEST leaves, see below progression of nitrogen def: Sulfur def: below entire plant is pale & stunt growth. gypsum has 21% sulfur for growth: Too alkaline will result in newest leaves being pale (iron deficiency with green veins, but pale background). Older leaves become blotchy pale (zinc def.). To correct too alkaline, sulfur at 30% or gypsum (calcium sulfate with 21% sulfur) gives fastest deep-green leaves. Also high nitrogen fertilizer like MG-soluble for plants NPK 24-8-16 will make leaves dark-green instantly (but higher in salt with potassium chloride or muriate of potash). MG-soluble for roses 18-24-16 also work in deep-green leaves since it's more acidic, plus less salt with sulfate of potash.

Moved info. from another thread as to pH preference of different roses: Take YOUNG own-roots in a nursery setting, watered with alkaline tap water (pH over 7.5). Young own-roots are wimpy, haven't secret acid yet, thus need an acidic medium like pine fines (pH 4) or peat (pH 4) & perlite to make minerals soluble in water to feed their tiny roots. Folks who grow roses in cold zone get tons of acidic rain plus snow, and need to lime roses per many inches of rain, if that rose is grafted on aggressive root-stock that secret acid. Dr. Huey-rootstock can go through rock-hard clay better than my shovel through its ability to secret acid. The pH requirement of roses change .. when they are young own-roots are like alfalfa sprouts, they can't secret acid, thus need an acidic medium. But as they get older and roots become more solid and woody, such as 3rd year on, that solid wood secrets plenty of acid. I bought an organic, very acidic SOLUBLE fertilizer, got some on my skin and it burned. I used the dose as recommended, it has acidic soy bean, kelp, and sulfate of potash .. my galllon-size own root roses love it !! Leaves became dark-green, but that acidic solution fried the leaves of 4th-year own-root Sweet Promise (with shiny & glossy and dark-green foliage). Roses grafted on multiflora rootstock, or have multiflora parentage dislike alkaline soil (become pale), thus these roses need an acidic soil to have darker leaves. In contrast, roses grafted on Dr. Huey, or have French Meilland or China parentage are healthier with higher pH. Old Garden roses were bred in the Old days, without high-pH tap water & only acidic rain at pH 5.6, thus prefer acidic soil. Modern roses are bred with alkaline-tap-water, and the most vigorous and dark-green tend to prefer such medium that they were bred, with pH over 7.5 like alkaline tap water. Intrigue hybrid tea is an example, 100% healthy in a pot, grafted on Dr. Huey, tons of buds, with alkaline tap-water pH near 9 (baking soda pH is 8.3). That was for $5 at Walmart. I didn't buy it, since I already saw Intrigue in spring time at the rose park with tons of acidic rain: it was a blackspot fest, and stingy too. But in hot & dry summer, Intrigue bloomed great with alkaline tap water at the rose park. Intrigue has dark-green leaves. Same with Perfume Delight, BS-fest with acidic rain, also dark-green leaves. To have dark-green leaves, roots must secret enough acid to get iron and manganese for dark-color .. such dark-green leaves roses secret more acid to utilize the minerals to make their leaves deep green. As the pH drops, less calcium and potassium are available, thus leaves are more susceptible to fungal diseases unless alkaline minerals is given.