Hey Josh, I have been been using Pro-Tekt with my Foliage Pro all winter and i can say that my plants have definately been happier than in the past... When i take my rain water and place it in my watering cans, i add the Pro Tekt first to all of the water and then stir it in. (1/4 tsp per gallon) Then i go back and add my Foliage Pro to the water. I keep it upstairs and let it warm to room temperature and then water. The combination of the two will definately help your plants and im so happy to have found my Pro Tekt. My Hydroponics dealer had to order it for me. I still can't find or he wont (says he cant..) order it for me. He looked it up and says its not available. Hmm? I still order my Foliage Pro from Ebay. They have free shipping anyway. Have fun with your Pro Tekt!!! Hope you are feeling better!!! Happy Spring AL!!! Take Care, Laura

Mike, good idea to post symptoms here, but since it is a citrus forum, I should point out that in many cases, the symptoms you've listed don't occur on citrus, and that the actual symptoms on citrus are quite different from those listed. For example: Calcium -- seldom visible symptoms on citrus Magnesium -- never symptoms on new growth of citrus; old growth shows a characteristic "inverted V" of green at the base of the leaf and yellow-orange above. Phosphorus -- I've never seen a citrus tree exhibit the purpling of leaves; rather, reduced fruit size and yield is most common. Boron -- in citrus, shows up as dead, sunken, gray or brown areas in the albedo (white part) of the fruit peel. Usually no other symptoms. Copper -- Growth may be unusually vigorous, producing huge, deep blue-green leaves, but the stems are too weak to support the weight, so they bow unusually, giving what is known as an "S" shape to the limb. Also, such limbs develop blisters on the epidermis which swell, then burst open, and ooze a sticky sap. Then in areas of the world that have fire ants (e.g., Florida), the ants are attracted to the sap, and they chew away the epidermis, killing the twigs entirely. Manganese -- at least in Florida, even a fairly severe deficiency generally has no effect on yield. Molybdenum -- older leaves are green with large (up to 1/4") yellow spots, like large freckles.

Hey Jay, Good find, a useful resource. Here's another one you may find useful at some point. Bill Here is a link that might be useful: DIAGNOSING PLANT DAMAGE

Over-fertilization: wilting, leaves curl down, plus brown burns at tip. Decade ago when my toddler sprinkled too much NPK 10-10-10 granules on my tomatoes, we got fat tomato worms for the first time ever (excess nitrogen & phosphorus attract pests). We had 1/10 the amount of fruits, plus leaves look like below: Too acidic: TOP LEAVES CURL UP. Tiny & pale and thinner leaves, bronzy leaves. Fungus: blackspots & rust & mildew. See below my Mustead Wood when I put too much acidic pine bark and acidic gypsum: Too alkaline: Pale upper branches. Note iron deficiency in upper leaves, plus zinc deficiency in older leaves (blotchy yellow) of below pic. Too alkaline with upper leaves twisted like witches broom (boron def). Too alkaline, iron def: pale UPPER leaves with green veins. See below with both iron (pale leaves) and copper deficiency (brown & dry spots) Too alkaline, zinc def: Short plants with a reduction in internodes length and leaf size. Leaf edges may be distorted or puckered and yellowing between the leaf veins, see below: Too alkaline, copper def: crinkled leaves, young leaves are dark green but twisted or misshapen, often with brown, dry spots. See below: U. of Colorado best describes zinc deficiency: "Plants tend to be stunted due to a shortening of the internodes. Leaves show a general yellowing of the upper foliage with a browning or bronzing of the older or lower leaves. The leaves of zinc-deficient typically have a crinkled appearance. A general downward curl of the leaves also will occur and flowering will be poor." Potassium def: Less blooms, balling, thin & weak stems, and blackspots, plus lowest leaves have yellow edges, then progressing to brown edge. Below is potassium deficiency in Teasing Georgia since I put too much lime in the pot. Too much calcium induces potassium deficiency. I reversed it with high-potassium fertilizer, note below new growth is normal: Calcium def: less petals, stunt growth & tip die-back & wilting top shoot, see below wilted shoot on Abraham Darby in 92 F, the growth is too fast, but there's not enough calcium. SOLUBLE calcium is known to help plants to cope with heat. Note below: young leaves are distorted, with curled margins and tip or with brown spots. Calcium def. is caused by low pH, below happened after a day of heavy acidic rain, then high temp: Nitrogen def: small leaves & pale LOWEST leaves, see below progression of nitrogen def: Sulfur def: below entire plant is pale & stunt growth. gypsum has 21% sulfur for growth: Too alkaline will result in newest leaves being pale (iron deficiency with green veins, but pale background). Older leaves become blotchy pale (zinc def.). To correct too alkaline, sulfur at 30% or gypsum (calcium sulfate with 21% sulfur) gives fastest deep-green leaves. Also high nitrogen fertilizer like MG-soluble for plants NPK 24-8-16 will make leaves dark-green instantly (but higher in salt with potassium chloride or muriate of potash). MG-soluble for roses 18-24-16 also work in deep-green leaves since it's more acidic, plus less salt with sulfate of potash.