Thanks pondbucket! I asked the local ponds shops and got quotes on ordeing a piece that size. Both were around $900 total. So I found a website pondliner.com and ordered it through them today. It came to $760 with shipping. Shipping via a carrier. Problem is the 20' width wouldn't work without seeming it together. Not something I want to do. Today I purchased a 7200 GPH pump, a 15" diameter tube three feet long to place it in. The pond guy told me by poking holes in the tube and filling it with some sort of BIO pellets (or something like that I can't remember) it will help filter the water and keep the pump from getting clogged with muck. That pump will run the water to the waterfall. I also purchased a small skimmer with a 1250 GPH pump that will move the water from the top to the bottom. I was able to get all the hoses and PVC attachments I need. I am really excited!!! I also found out that here in Utah you can get a $10.00 permit to go get your own rock from public lands through the geological survey folks. They also give you a map of the state and tell you the type of rock that can be found where. So we are going to go do some rock hunting. This should help with costs ;) I think about two weeks from now we should have it filled and running.

Since I last posted, I've narrowed a few things down. One of the rooms that was affected (there were 2 rooms total), has been fixed. The french drain I installed around the perimeter of the front of the house, where water was creeping under the foundation, seems to have fixed the issue in the larger room. There is now no more musty smell in there. However, the other room, which is a "closet" that backs up directly to a bathroom, still has the odor, which has actually gotten worse. The smell is definitely partially sweet, and partially musty. I've cut the drywall all the way around the room to see if there is any signs of water damage, dead animals, etc inside of the walls. Interestingly enough, the inside of the walls that butt up to other rooms, smell fine. The walls that have concrete on the other side, have the odor present (perimeter walls). The only two things I haven't addressed yet are the roof (I'd have to cut the ceiling open because there is no attic access at this point for how low the roof pitches). The other thing would be the foundation (slab). I have fairly expensive laminate flooring and underlayment in that room, which would have to be removed, and the floor would have to be inspected for dampness. However, given the circumstances, it's been narrowed down quite a bit. The room has 4 walls (2 butt up to exterior concrete and 2 others butt up to interior rooms), a standard hollow core wood door, a West-facing window, and a drywall knockdown ceiling. There is only two piece of furniture in the room, which are bookcases. One is MDF (still wrapped in plastic to hold it together before I bolt it in), and the other is pine wood, also wrapped in thin plastic to protect it. I've just put two large shop fans, a big air purifier, an ionizer, and ozone generator all in the room with a big bucket of damprid (although humidity levels in that room are only 49% in south florida, which is fairly average). I've also sprayed half a can of lysol air spray into the room. I'll let you guys know how that works out, and hopefully we can figure it out. and ESMAN - let me know your notes as well. Thanks.

A cementious floor filler made for the purpose is what you want to use. These are portland cement based products and are user friendly. They contain binders to help the product adhere to the substrate, so usually no primer is needed to install them. PlaniPatch by Mapei is a good choice and there are others made by Ardex, Laticrete and many more. These are essentially like self leveling underlayments, but they won't flow and level on their own. You need to mix them with water at the prescribed rate (drill with mixing paddle) and then place the product by working it with trowels and a straight edge board to screed the product where you want it to fill in the depressions. You don't have to complete the 'lift' in one application...these products usually stick to themselves very well, so you can build up and screed the product until you get it flat with the surrounding areas. By screeding I mean what you see concrete people do when they place a load of concrete and then work it with straight edges and trowels to get it to the desired level. The 48" spans worry me a bit, but as long as you don't have a lot of flex and bounce, it should work. Some floor people fill depressions with almost anything they can get their hands on...roofing felt, sheet flooring, almost any mass you can put in there to get the area flat. I don't do that, but I know others do. And I once filled in depressions in a concrete floor with cleaned and dry play sand, although I would not recommend that for the novice...and most manufacturers would not approve of that method (very difficult to get the sand to stay where you place it). That's all I have time for right now.

#5 Are there two windows together above the Weedy chest? Is the item facing washer and dryer, the linen closet? Is that going to be built into the wall or a free standing piece of furniture? #6 Three windows on the south wall? What is that new piece in front of the first window on that south wall? I think this layout creates a tight space at the corner of the PR and linen closet. #8 The freezer blocks access to any storage on the base of that desk area. To me, #5 seems to make the best use of the space and it looks in proportion. I might switch the sink to the place in front of the window rather than the toilet. I like the way the freezer and washer and dryer are together. You took care of the southern light causing problems with your computer screen by taking out the window. I’m assuming that’s a double window over the Weedy chest. You can actually look across the room and out the window while seated at the desk if you want to. You would also have direct view of the kitchen from a chair in front of the desk. I’m wondering about what kind of desk it is. If the chair can only be positioned in the middle of that space allotted for the desk, it will be uncomfortable up against the freezer. If you can put the chair at the end of the desk closest to the door, it should work fine. Again, using the space below the desk in the corner, might be a problem, but maybe that isn’t an issue for you. Plenty of room on top of washer dryer and freezer to fold clothes. Plenty of room to open the doors of the linen closet and stand to put things away. Not sure how much vegetable gardening is going to be an activity for you. You do have a small garden right now, but if you plan to increase the size of it, then I would consider how much room you need to start seedlings. You could add another window over the desk on the south side and use a blackout window shade when you are at the computer and that way if you needed more space for seedlings, you’d have it. I’d find it interesting to know which option you like the best and why. I guess at this point, I’d refine each option until I thought I couldn’t improve the layout at all, then sit with them awhile then try to narrow down the choices. It really is all about what makes you the happiest and which plan has no hidden pitfalls that would surprise you after it is built. That is what 'custom' is all about. I might also think about running it by a professional before I made a final decision. Maybe someone at one of the box stores might offer to take a look at your two final choices and make comments?