Optimum levels of organic matter in solils is btween 5 and 8 percent, so while not quite there you are getting close. Soil pH, for most plants, is in the 6.2 to 7.0 range, so while a bit low yours is okay. Nutrients you want in balance, not too much of one and too little of another which is where the problem lies. Nutrient imbalances create more problems then they solve. Nitrogen is dependant on soil warmth, bacterial activity. When soils are cool and there is little bacterial activity there is not much N available, but as soils warm, and the bacteria become more active more N is available to the plants. Nitrogen sources with readily available N, soluble types, can make it look like there is ample N in the soil but that will also wash out of the soil quickly with excess water and is the source of nitrate pollution of ground water.

Begonia, Repeat after me_I AM NOT SCARED!!! I swear plants know when you are afraid of them and will take every advantage to die on you. Confidence!!! Now on to your questions: Your soil mix is appropriate for wicking. Some people use a thinner wick for smaller plants and vice-versa. I do not. I like my reservoir go dry for a day or so before I re-fill it to let my plants dry a bit. If the plants become too dry, watering from the top will get the wick going again. You will have to experiment but as you are a confident plant person this will not scare you. Just stick your finger in the soil-if it's soaking, it's too wet but I don't think you'll have this problem. (Spraying the stem is unnecessary but not harmful). And you will have to pat your soil in somewhat. Just don't go at it like you're punching down bread dough. You do not need fancy grow lights. Go to HD and get a warm white and a cool white. Your fixture should have a reflector. (I have been using this combination since 1972.) I think the warm is labeled daylight or sunshine. If you want the reason for this, let me know. It's rather lengthy and it's very late so...you'll just have to trust me. (I can also rhapsody for quite a while on soil mixes in case you are interested). But...I digress...) I replace when my tubes get a dark ring around the ends, (very noticeable) or when growth and blooming start to slow. Be careful with new tubes. They are very strong in the beginning. As you have learned, plants of a genera are not all the same . Each cultivar and even each individual is different and will respond differently to your growing conditions. Just follow good AV growing practices and don't be afraid to experiment. And don't be discouraged when you lose some. We all lose some. Some plants are just naturally weak, some won't like you or your conditions and some are just suicidal. Just chalk it up to experience and move on. A plant that dies gives you room for something new! I have been at this plant business my entire life and there are still violets that refuse to bloom for me. Ex: Gillian. Grows like a weed. Will not bloom. I don't obsess over these non-bloomers. I give them to my neighbor and let her obsess. Instead of individual containers-why don't you get a tray-the kind annuals come in-with no holes. Add egg-crate and place your plants on this with the wicks extending through the egg-crate. This takes care of humidity (Question 4) and you won't have to figure out what containers to use (Question 5). It also makes it much easier to care for your plants when they are all together and all you have to do is water the tray. Let me know if you have more questions! Linda

Starlight I grow 3 hydrangeas at varying distances from the maple: 1 arborescens (6 feet), 2 macrophylla,Twist n' shout 9 feet, Endless summer 13 feet. The tree is in my neighbour's front yard and is seperated by their pathway from our yard, which is slightly higher 2-4 inches. The maple's canopy starts way up. But the roots are all over the place, and unless we have major showers no rain can past that canopy. H. arborescens is really big and continues to sucker all over the place. It is rarely watered in the summer. but it thrives. However, both macrophyllas are water hogs. Mulched, mulch-less they drooped especially the 1st 3 years. Remember my soil is 100% sand. In the first 3 years, I had to water it regularly. Sometimes every day (especially in heat waves) or every 2nd day. I just put the hose in it's crown and let them drink. However, since this year, 5th year, I have to water it much less. Maybe once a week if we don't have any showers. The plants are healthy and flower. Mine receive dappled light and some 1 or 2 morning sun. And the one that receives the afternoon sun hates it. In retrospect, if I had amended my sandy soil properly with organic matter, I might have a had a better result. SG the worse year with the hydrangea was a freaky one when the snow melted in mid March and then we had a freakish cold weather -4 wind chills etc. That killed all the top buds. Last year, during the polar vortex I couldn't cover the top buds of Twish and shout. Nothing happened to it. From my experience it isn't the winter but a roller coaster spring that can kill the confused buds on the old growth.

Is that normal though to have the different varieties grow at such a different rate? Perfectly normal in my experience and different growth rates and patterns for different varieties has often been discussed here - that you can't fairly compare varieties when it comes to growth patterns as seedlings. Different varieties have different genes = different growth rates so cut them (and yourself) some slack, ok. ;) But that doesn't mean they are somehow more persnikity, less viable, less productive, or stunted. EX: Redhouse Freestanding looks like a pro football player from day one while Opalka always starts out wispy and kind of 98 pound weakling looking but you'd never know that by mid-season when it has left Redhouse in the dust. Just let them do their thing and all else being equal, it will all come out right in the end. Dave