There are actually 2 considerations for plants in direct afternoon sun through windows. One is photo load and the other is passive heat gain. The dark leaves are good solar collectors, and each leaf has what is called a boundary layer of air surrounding it that insulates the leaf. IOW, light turns to heat on the leaf's surface and the boundary layer of air insulates it from escaping into surrounding air. So, if you site your plants in front of a south or west window where it gets direct afternoon sun, it would be a good idea to have a fan on a timer to move enough air that the boundary layer of air is disrupted and heat can escape the leaf surface. The actual photo load should be no problem unless the plant is unable to adapt to what you suspect might be too much light. The plant is genetically capable of living in the (potentially) brighter light, but the leaves currently on the plant might not have the ability to make the adjustment. IOW - every leaf can't adapt to every light level. Those that are required to adapt to conditions that are outside the range they're able to adapt to will be shed and other leaves perfectly adapted to the light level where the plant is currently sited will take their place. Over-watering is probably your largest concern at this point. DO use a wooden dowel stuck deep in the pot as a 'tell', and don't water unless the 'tell' tells you the plant is dry or nearly so very deep in the pot - like all the way to the bottom. I'd be thinking about a fresh start for the plants next summer. A full repot with root pruning and a change to a soil you won't have to fight for control of your plants' vitality would be a very good move on your part. The plants will love it and you'll get much more from the growing experience when you literally see the fruits of your efforts being made manifest in your plants. Don't forget to flush the soil every month or two. It is important to help keep the level of mineral salts from fertilizers & tapwater from getting out of hand. Questions? Input? Al

I haven't repotted, no. It's still in the pot from the nursery, which has drain holes. The surrounding grey pot in the picture is just a pot cover.

Al Tapla would you be able to tell me what is wrong with mine? I've had this tree four four years and never had any trouble with it but now I am killing it! I wanted it to grow more branches so I pruned it and moved it to a sunny-er spot and added grow lights and started fertilizing more regularly. Next thing I know, it's getting yellow blotches all over the leaves and sometimes red speckles and tiny pin holes. I found spider mites on a different plant, but I couldn't see any on this one, but I hosed it off and sprayed with dish soap in case it was mites. Then the soil was soaked and wouldn't dry and a week and a half later this leaf turned black and dry in the center. I thought maybe it was because the soil was wet too long. I freaked out, so just yesterday I did a full repot (never done this before) and added perlite and orchid bark mix to potting mix to get a grittier faster drying mix. I also cut off half of the leaves. It really doesn't look too happy today (droopy leaves and soft stems and even more red speckling on new leaves) I don't know if it's been given too much light, too much fertilizer, too much water, or is infected with mites, or all of the above. Anything you can suggest? The tiny pin-holes make me think mites are one the table but I hate to stress it out more if it's not that.

1. If you had a bush like mine, what would you do? It's the middle of summer (I'm in Toronto) to give you an idea of the weather I am living in. If you want a standard (single trunk), you'll need to remove all but one trunk if there are multiple plants, or, if it's a single plant and the several trunks are actually branches, you'll need to remove all but 1 branch. The best time to do this (for you) is in the weeks that immediately bracket the summer solstice (June 21), so now is a very good time. Plants have rhythms such that they are sometimes robust and growing strongly, or pretty much resting in what appears to be a state of suspended growth. It just makes sense to work WITH the plant instead of against it by doing the heavy work of hard pruning and repotting when they're strongest, and make allowances during months when they're weaker. 2. I know some of these leaves need to go so that it can reserve it's energy for new growth, but which leaves should I trim? Plants make their own food (sugar/ carbohydrate) during photosynthesis, so every green leaf is its own food factory. Removing living leaves always slows growth, development, and o/a vitality (health). I get the sense from your post that things are going to happen quickly. They might ...... in tree time, but not in people time. It takes patience and something of a workable plan to bring your vision for the plant to fruition. Leaving all the leaves on the plant, for now, will make it grow faster and make the trunk thicker/stronger - so I encourage you to do that, excepting what pruning you need to do to get the ball rolling toward what you're looking for from the plant. After that, save your pruning for late spring/early summer (mid-June). 3. I saw a few spider mites - I rinsed it outside but I don't think that was enough. How do I get rid of them? What you did is fine if you do it every 4 days. Be sure to spray (a fine mist is best) into the leav axils (crotch formed by the leaf stem and the branch it attaches to) and on the underside of leaves where they like to hide. If you're indoors, you can mix 1 part of 70% rubbing alcohol to 1 or 2 parts of water and spritz all surfaces, nooks/crannies. That works very well. 4. There is new growth at the bottom. Should I get rid of these?Your wishes trump the plant's wishes, always, but the plant would say, "Not yet" - these leaves are still working hard for me and you can remove them at any future point in time. Al