Any PIlea depressa experts? Need help with leaf drop.
canaanjs09
11 months ago
last modified: 11 months ago
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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
11 months agolast modified: 11 months agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
11 months agoRelated Discussions
I can't stop the jade tree leaf drop! Help! (pictures inside)
Comments (38)carrieabalch This thread has a posted comment that reaches seven years ago prior to your post Your northern corner of the US would allow the blinds to be open during the day the lack of winter rain fall from out side could be replaced with tap water that's been allowed to set at room temp for 24 hours or more. ummmmm I don't know either but how does anyone get rain water from the outside to three floors up inside? Yes green is good but it is a bit on the stringy side sparse,thin and slightly on the side of etiolated. I imagine some pruning of your jades weaker growth and cutting would be in order, as to where you'll find some ideas as to where or what to cut could be a little difficult to look up after all the other soil mixing and idea searching you'll be doing. mind if I use your pic ? Start with the red lines and cut away as best as you can if you happen to find some info on your relentless 1000's and 1000's of jade threads You may also want to attempt to root the cutting as as well which also has 1000's and 1000's of searchable info on how to do as well. Side note which has very very little to do with any of your 10000's of searching information results The pot is a bit to big....See MoreHelp! Need diagnosis from you experts
Comments (11)The chile in the first two pics is a "Habanero" (by bonnie plants) and the other one is a Red Beauty bell pepper. I have a Sunbell & a Mucho Nacho jalapeno & a supersweet 100 cherry tomato and they aren't showing the same symptoms. I also have 10 seedlings in coco coir in the closet, and they are all doing good so far, some are about ready for hardening off :) Interesting, I never thought it could be over-feeding, but I can try cutting back on nutes. According to the bottle (Hesi coco is a 1 part system) you should feed 3ml/L during "veg" and 5ml/L during "bloom", pH @ 5.6-6.2. I've been feeding like just a bit under that, about 2.5ml/L (i have a 5ml measuring syringe & i feed the plants 2 liters total). Willard, the reason I think it might be calcium is because I used bricked coir (the kind that isn't pre-soaked to satisfy the cation exchange ratio). According to everything I found about coco coir most info suggests either pre-soaking with calcium supplements or using calcium supplements the first few weeks because the cation exchange capacity of coir tends to hold onto the calcium in the solution and make it unavailable to the plant until the coir is filled with it. The whole cation exchange capacity thing is kinda confusing to me, apparently its a unique feature to coco coir. So yeah, you think that could be it or you still vote for too much nutes? I can try feeding half-strength solution for a week or so and see how that helps, or i can keep feeding same strength and just supplement with that cal-mag that will be here tomorrow and see how that works. Which one do you suggest? Also, I think I'm going to start pre-mixing my solution and aerating it with an aquarium airstone, you think that's a good idea? Currently I draw the water I'm going to use for the next feeding when I finish the current one and let it sit in the water bucket to give the water a chance to de-chlorinate then mix the solution immediately before use. And I plan on getting a meter soon (i'm a broke college student lol), what kind do you suggest? And any good suggested reading? Sorry bout all the questions, but I'm just jumping on the chance to get some answers from someone who knows what's really goin on :) I appreciate it Justin...See MoreMeyer Lemon - is my leaf drop normal?
Comments (9)From UF Extension, leaf symptoms for citrus greening:-Leaf symptoms include blotchy mottle, yellow veins, vein corking or green islands-Yellow veins, vein corking or green islands are not diagnostic alone -Blotchy mottle is the best diagnostic leaf symptom of greening -Blotchy mottle: a random pattern of yellowing (chlorosis) on leaves that is not the same on the right and left sides of the leaf -Yellow veins can be confused with other diseases (e.g. foot rot) or damage (e.g. broken or girdled limb) Pen Test for Leaves -A simple procedure to determine if symptoms are the same on both halves of a leaf-Draw two circles on opposite halves of the leaf-Is the pattern the same in both circles?-Different patterns indicate potential greening if other problems have been ruled out Looks like greening as your one picture shows random blotchy spots....See MoreCalling Fiddle Leaf Experts— weird new growth, dark spots, & a repot
Comments (15)Plants that are struggling seldom give you cuttings that will root, so it's a good bet that any attempt at starting cuttings would be an exercise in futility. New leaves on ficus are typically a lighter shade of green than more mature leaves, and it's not unusual for anthocyanin to express itself (the purple pigment dots) in new leaves. It will fade as the leaves mature. If the image represents the roots current condition, I don't see why your tree shouldn't recover quickly, though you might have slowed recovery down if you didn't keep roots dripping wet throughout the procedure. It only takes a minute or two for fine roots to dry out and die. Closing your tree up with only a low light source might well have caused a corky layer to form where the leaf attaches to the stem. This is called an abscission layer because it's the point at which the leaf abscises (separates from the plant). Once this layer starts to form, it's not reversible, so some of the lower leaves might still be shed. You have a LOT of leaves on the plant for the root system to keep hydrated, so you might also see additional shedding as a drought response due to a compromised root system. This would be do to the repot, but the roots drying out during the repot would add to your shedding woes. You could remove some lower leaves or just let the plant decide what it needs to do to balance the top to what the roots can keep supplied with moisture. As long as you don't over-water (moist or damp as a wrung out sponge is what you should aim for) your plant should do the rest. When you're sure it's pushing new growth, you should start fertilizing. HOW you fertilize, solution strength and frequency, depends on your soil and how you water. Key, is your choice of soil and making sure your watering habits are appropriate. If you're able to water to beyond the saturation point, so you're flushing the soil when you water. without the plant having to suffer because the soil remains soggy for extended periods, you already have half of the battle won. Al...See Morecanaanjs09
11 months agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
11 months agocanaanjs09
11 months agocanaanjs09
11 months agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
11 months agocanaanjs09
11 months agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
11 months agocanaanjs09
11 months agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
11 months agocanaanjs09
11 months agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
11 months agoMichele Rossi
11 months ago
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)