Plants should receive a DEEP watering at least once per week, preferably by a hand held hose. Little sips of water might not soak to the depth of the root system. Citrus require full sun conditions in order to thrive. This means 6 hours of direct sunlight or more. Compost or any other amendment should not be added to a planting hole. It was thought at one time that that practice was good for new plantings, but we know better now. Unless you are preparing an entire bed for new installations, leave the soil improvement stuff out of the hole. Rather, apply the compost to the top, as a mulch. Some kind of leaf mite? Trap? Please explain. Absolutely remove the fertilizer that is still piled up at the base of your tree. Instead, rake it out evenly over a wide area all around the location you imagine the root zone to be. And NEVER in clumps. Never at the base of a tree or shrub. Does the planting site drain well? What color is it? Is it easy to dig into or not? Finally, the single most common mistake that I see in regards to new plantings is that the hole is dug too deeply, and the root ball ends up covered up with inches of soil. Rather, the plant should sit ABOVE grade upon planting....how much depends upon the soil.

I live in northern Ca where a fire devastated my town. Over 1000 homes were lost including my brothers where I had a few trees in the ground as well as containers. None of the trees actually were burnt but basically all were defoliated from either heat or lack of water. We were unable to get up to water the trees in the evacuation area for over a week. Anyways they are all budding out again in some way. Although some won't look good because of major branch loses I can't discard anything that's fighting to stay alive, no matter how it will look. So I have a few questions. I feel like the ones in containers are doing the best and should make a full recovery, but is there anything I can do to prevent more loss during dormancy or at least help them? Next the trees I dug up and transferred into containers I would like to repot into a more container friendly soil when there dormant but is it best to mAybe leave them be for another full season. Any thoughts or comments that would help increase their chances would be greatly appreciated. Also I had a bloodgood far to big to transplant myself in the middle of summer its about 10 feet tall it was also defoliated in the fire but has come back magnificently I wanted to wait for it to go dormant and give a shot at moving it also so any advice there would be great

looks like spider mite damage to the leaves. I use neem oil spray if they become an issue.

Flex, you are not getting many answers because you tagged 'ask the yard doctor'. One of the quirks of this site is that people using the gardenweb site can't comment if you do this. It's only accessible via Houzz and from the US. If you repost and leave off atyd you should get some help. Bottom line is that olives make difficult houseplants. They're seldom happy indoors.