You can get a fine shower from a handheld. If I'm installing just one head in a shower, I recommend the user go with a handheld. They're more versatile, and there is no performance penalty. Understand that many manufacturers use the same shower head for fixed and handheld applications. Same head, just a different presentation. Example, here's the Grohe Relaxa Top4, which is what I have in my shower: Fixed: Handheld: I'll agree with raehelen too regarding the bench. I'll encourage you to eliminate the built-in bench and go with a movable wood stool or bench. Again, more versatile. And more comfortable to sit on. Two heads in a 65" shower is not excessive. Regarding the rainhead and pressure. You are correct, many people who use a rainhead as a daily shower head to shower an shampoo do indeed get frustrated with it. It's not really intended to function that way. But those who use a rainhead for the "rainhead experience", they love the rainhead. If your two heads will be used for functional showering, I'd recommend a fixed head on one wall and a handheld on the other wall. Make the handheld hose long enough so it can be used to wash down the walls. I probably install more Grohe than anything else. When you do change shower heads, there sometimes is a transition when going from what you're used to to what you now have. The new head isn't worse. It's simply different. For your plumbing layout, consider having the supply valve(s) located just inside the shower so you can turn the water on without having to step into the shower. The idea is to eliminate getting hit with a cold spray when you turn the shower on.

I have a very similar ktichen (11x13), pics below of what I did . A petite bistro table and chairs worked best for me as the space is so small and right near through traffic. It is surprisingly functional yet does not take up space. I love sitting in the nook chatting with a friend over tea... Two suggestions - wait to do wiring until you do remodel. Finalize design and do all at once, will be more efficient and cost effective. I did do some plumbing first, as I had to move water heater due to kitchen design. I swapped out all the galvanized for copper and cut over to a new tankless water heater in phase 1. then phase 2 was gutting and full construction of the kitchen, including rewire in other parts of house. My second suggestion - go with custom cabinetry using local cabinet maker. I did this and was able to really maximize the space and storage capabilities. The cost was slightly more but not by much and the additional functionality squeezed in more than justified the slight increase. I also loved that I could select the exact color of cabinetry by going custom. Breakfast Nook: Table purchased on Craigs List, custom chairs ordered on line The Before The After Sink Wall (sorry bad photo taken during tiling) The Layout

I have rented a floor sander to go over my deck and prep it for staining. I get the flat kind of sander that has no roller so less danger of gouging. Just keep it moving and go over the whole thing lightly. New stain takes better. I use the Cabot oil based semi transparent stain and it has lasted for 3 years. Now doing a referb on my deck which is over 10 years old. Some boards cracked all the way through and were replaced because they were dangerous. Most had surface cracks and I am trying an outdoor stainable filler made by Elmers. Haven't gotten around to stain it yet so we will see how it does. Needless to say, we are saving up to replace it next time. Would have done now but we are short of cash. This time I am going to try Cabot's Australian Timber Oil. I used it on a bench and picnic table and like the oily look. Not sure how it will wear though.

Mtdoug, I'm happy that you like plan C and hope that your wife likes it as well. Agree that Robotropolis did a fantastic job. Here are some additional thoughts for tweeking "C" plan: 1. Since your dining room is large, you have the option of putting your snack area in there with a "wet bar" sink, an undercounter fridge, and a mini microwave. Shelves on brackets could go above. Other snacks, paper plates, etc. could be placed in decorative baskets on the shelves yet keep the mess out of view. This would allow the placement of a chair in the kitchen with it's back against that 41" wall space. Replace that larger sink with a small work table for sit down prep. With your good view there, you could even have the chair on castors to directly face the window and then move back to the corner when not in use. Where the small sink is in plan C, enlarge it and place a dishwasher to the left of the sink. Recycle can be placed on the wall next to the small prep table. A floor to ceiling pantry could be to the left of the recycle, in the left corner on the wall. 2. I would think another option is to place more storage or the pantry in the dining room rather than the entry. To give it more of a dining room look, pull out drawers could be in the lower portion and doors with textured glass that obscures (or gathered curtains inside the door) for shallow 12" uppers. That arrangement would make it flexible for resale with options for new owners. 3. To the right of the stove (cooktop?), you can either have an Easy Reach corner wall cabinet or a 27" diagonal corner wall cabinet. Most people on GW prefer the Easy Reach because it's better if two cooks are in the kitchen with more access to the counter. The advantage of the diagonal is that it stores a great deal more if after market D-shaped Super Susans (on ball bearings) are added to allow easy access to the far reaches of the back cabinet. The add ons are very reasonably priced. I'm a one person kitchen and desperately needed that storage so love my diagonal cabinet. See what your wife prefers, consider your top priority, and perhaps look at both types of cabinets in the showroom. Edited to add that I have a 36" diagonal base cabinet with two Super Susans below the 27" diagonal wall cabinet. This combination provides additional counter and prevents the upper from being "in your face." This combination works in a one cook small kitchen when storage needs to be maximized. Also, I don't like the added care that's needed with bifold doors on cabinets that get frequent use. In my other corner is a 33" Easy Reach base cabinet with bifold doors that is used for trash. Unfortunately, there was no room for a trash pullout in my kitchen, and I did not want trash under the sink. This obviously works only with one or two, and only kitchen trash goes here. There are no Super Susans in this cabinet, just shelves. Garbage that could have an odor goes in the freezer for trash day. I have a small plastic trash container on both the upper and lower shelf. Baking pans and large cooker are also stored vertically in that cabinet. The bottom line is that you and your wife need to plan what's going into each cabinet to determine which types of cabinets best meet your needs. 4. The 6" base vertical "spice drawers" work well in a small kitchen if you have a 6" space available and are short on drawers. These are 6" x 6" x 22"d that are available unfinished outside of Ikea. These hold all my "junk drawer" items such as large cooking spatulas, pizza cutter, ice cream scoop, long parchment paper box, rolling pin, etc. It's been interesting to read about your progress and issues that need to be addressed. I hope you will allow GW to follow your progress as you bring your long awaiting plans to completion. It's obvious that a great deal of thought has gone into your planning. This post was edited by Texasgal47 on Sun, May 4, 14 at 11:20