In the spring of 2012, I attempted to graft a Pear scion onto my apple tree using Winter Banana Apple as an inter stem. (All of he grafting i do is "Whip and Tongue" grafts wrapped in grafting tape. I then coat the wrapped union with grafting wax) The parent branch was a Winesap Apple branch with a grafted Winter Banana Apple scion from a few years before. (I actually have two of these paired branches.) I then attempted to graft two "Kieffer" Pear scions onto my two Winter Banana Apple inter stems. The "Kieffer" Pear scions started to grow, but died a few weeks later. This spring (2014) I attempted to graft this Apple / Pear union again using the same Winter Banana Apple inter stems. I had just enough branch on my Winter Banana branches to try this experiment one more time. This time around, I used "Sunrise Pear" scionwood. The grafting was a screaming success! (I had enough "Sunrise Pear" scionwood to graft two branches onto my apple tree, and two more onto an ornamental pear. All four pear grafts were a success!) I have no idea why this experiment failed in 2012 and was a success in 2014. I do not know if it had to do with the pear variety used, or if it had to do with environmental circumstances. I will re-post in 2015 with an update. There are a few different treads on this subject so I will be re-posting on those threats also. Below are pictures taken on 07/27/2014.

To be a success, you would have to cut any growth above the graft, top your tree. If you don't, the graft may never grow. I have grafted like you are proposing and had some but very little success with the graft growing out. This is what I have done to my kumquat tree(a full sized kumquat tree makes way more kumquats than a 100 people could eat). I topped the tree last year and you can see the graft growing out with the green tape. Two other stumps grew out some and then died over the winter. This year I removed more branches and you can see the stump covered with aluminum foil(and there are two other sites not in visible in the picture. You will lose one year of frutit by topping the tree but after a year of growth, your tree should be back to the same size as before and have a crop the second year. My tree will be a kumquat on the lower branches and 3 different mandarins at the top which I can eat more of. Here is a link that might be useful: mrtexas

Compatible. Your 'selection' is just one of a bazillion of 'volunteer' callery seedlings that are rampantly invading the countryside. If you're bound and determined to propagate this one, you can probably find a million callery seedlings in the nearby vicinity - isn't this one growing along the highway right-of-way? - dig one up and graft its relative onto it. Scott is right. FB can strike callery. I'm seeing more and more of it around here. Not enough to take the majority of 'em out, unfortunately - though I do like having a few volunteers around to use for rootstocks.

I was told to graft peach when temps reach at least 80F and leafed out and not before by Olpea who has over 300 peach trees. Here is what he told me That's really the challenge with peach wood, trying to keep it as dormantas possible. It is some of the first wood to break dormancy in therefrigerator, and the last wood that is grafted. In other words,something like apples stay dormant a long long time in the fridge, but also are grafted earlier than peaches, so apples are no problem keeping dormant until they are ready to graft. Likewise with pears. Peaches are the opposite, and so can be very difficult to keep dormant.Try to keep your refrigerator as close to 32F as possible. It won't hurt the scionwood to let it have some minor freezing b/t 30 and 32, as long as it's not really prolonged freezing. Prolonged freezing of the wood willdry it out and possibly kill it.Wait till your peaches fully leaf out before you try to graft, and makesure the next week has projected highs of 80F or more. Don't try to do budding for spring grafting peaches. Budding works fine in the fall, when using soft wood cuttings, but it doesn't work near as well in the spring,with hard wood cuttings.In the spring, use some form of scion grafting. It doesn't matter what type of graft you use, just not budding. I use about a 2 or 2.5" piece of scionwood with 2 or 3 buds on it. If the scionwood does start to sproutin the fridge, don't panic, just try to keep it cold and continue to waitfor the right temps outside, before grafting. I've still had good luck grafting sprouted wood, as long as the temps are right. Make sure youtape your graft connections well, and make sure you wrap the whole graftin parafilm. The second step is especially important if you're grafting with scionwood which has already sprouted.