Hello, ncgardner. Hydrangeas can tolerate full sun if you live in the northern states. As you begin to move into warmer climates, some varieties will tolerate full sun and others will balk. When you reach the southern states like Texas and Florida, it becomes a no-no for all varieties. The recommendation from the Endless Summer Website (see the link below) is for Part Shade. Newly planted and/or transplanted hydrangeas need more moisture during their first year because their root systems have not been established in their new surroundings. I suppose something similar could be said of hydrangeas planted in windy locations. I can only assume that your plant label came from a nursery in the northern states where full sun is ok for them. Of the various types of hydrangeas, Pee Gees (H. paniculata Pee Gee) and Oakleafs tolerate full sun best (assuming you keep the soil moist). A word of caution. Please be careful with all this daily watering. You may be adding to much water into the soil and hydrangeas like moist soil, not wet soil. You can confirm that water is needed if the soil feels dry when you insert your finger into the ground to a depth of 2-3 inches. Too much water can create root rot or make it easier to get fungal diseases. I suggest you make the following test to tell if the plants are getting too much sun.... Water the plant in the morning and do not water again until the next morning (or unless you notice extreme wilting). Next, see how the plant is doing (a) late in the afternoon, (b) about 2 hours after the sun has gone down and (c) in the next morning. If it appears to be wilting in the afternoon but recovers by morning, it is ok but you will need to monitor the soil humidity. If the plant is still wilting in the morning, then it is getting too much sun. If at any time during that test you notice extreme wilting, discontinue the test and add water (if needed) because it is getting too much sun. Just checking.... I assume you have plenty of mulch? I have 3 inches of mulch extending 6-12 inches past the dripline on my Macrophyllas and my Oakleaf. In case you decide to move the plants, choose an area that gets less than 6 hours of sun (the definiton of "full sun" is 6 hours of sun or more). I shoot for 3-4 hrs of sun here in Texas (dappled sun is best). The more sun you get (within reason), the more/better bloomage you get but, no hydrangea will thrive in full shade. Also, do not plant them directly under trees because the tree roots may be attracted to the moist area and may steal some of the water. For more information on hydrangeas, go to this link: http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/index.html I hope that helps. Good luck, Luis Here is a link that might be useful: Endless Summer Care

Thanks! Sorry I didn't follow up on this post sooner. It's good to hear how hardy this plant is - I know the whole allure is that they can survive cold areas, but I've still read about them not making it through the first winter. Today, April 6, I still have tons of snow in my yard, but most of the snow that was on this plant is now melted. So, I've got the plant covered in dead leaves, with just one large piece of ice on top of the leaves. Because I didn't use a barrel or a wooden frame to protect the plant, and instead just threw the leaves on top and left it open to snow, it's gotten really crushed down. (We got a lot of snow all at once this winter.) I'm not sure when it will be safe to uncover it - is there any reason to wait until the last frost (which here is not til early June!?) Or, since the plant should be dormant and has been in freezing temps all winter, will it be okay for it to now be exposed to frost? I'm dying to know what shape it's in now. I suppose if some people never do anything to protect the plant, and they survive, uncovering it now should be fine.

I'm up in Bailey's neightborhood and have used Endless Summer in my own garden and several clients gardens. I lost a few the first year they came out but since they've all done well and bloomed subsequent years. It seems I only get one good flush in mid summer, I think the early crop is killed off over winter and then there isn't enough time to ripen a fall flush. None get chemical fertilizer but all are in shady woodsy gardens with fertile soil. I can't really think what would be different about the upper midwest. More heat then the east coast? Cooler evenings? Blushing Bride is supposed a better reblooming - time will tell. BTW my understanding is the original Endless Summer was purchased a forced plant for a Mother's Day gift and planted in a garden where it bloomed happily for years until it came to the attention of someone who worked at Bailey's Ted

I am NJ too. I have two Nikko Blue hydrangeas that are 4' x 4', but barely bloom each year (might get 4 or 5 blooms) and a 2 yr old ES that bloomed pretty well this year (better than year 1) but hasn't rebloomed yet (if it's going to). The worst part about them is that they look pretty sad and droopy in the NJ heat and humidity during the day, so without the blooms they are pretty ugly. I did plant my first serrata (Tuff Stuff) last fall, but that hasn't had a single bloom this year. It's growing, so seems to be doing ok otherwise, but it's been extremely disappointing. I might give up on all Hydrangeas :P Oh and about the rooting...I took a cutting from the serrata in May and it rooted easily in a few weeks (and I'm no propagation expert...just stuck it in some peat moss and put a zip lock baggie over it). I was bold and even planted it in the ground towards the end of June and it's doing great, so now I have 2 non-blooming serratas :P