Thanks, Bass. Gosho is a different Persimmon? They put these 3 on the same name tag, Giant Fuyu (Gosho), guess I can get 2/3 varieties on one plant, maybe just the name tag. I did see one "giant" persimmon on one of the trees, it's fruiting this year already and ripening. The fruit was definitely much larger than what we bought from oriental grocery store (Fuyu). Many websites say "cut the persimmon tree to 3-4' when planting", wouldn't that encourage branching low? Why would people want to cut the tree short, guess they don't want a whip without a good root system, that only apply to bare root mailing order? If get a good growing tree in pot, I see no reason to cut it short. Also collected some wild persimmon seeds, think they are D. Virginiana. Will try start my own rootstock. This is addicting! No doubt. :) Nursery has them on D. Lotus only.

I've had basjoo for 4 or 5 years, with rousing success. I have over 40 of them now, having started with 2. It's a forest out there. They get 20-25 feet tall, with ornamental bananas. All those years I've cut them off with a chainsaw at about 4 feet tall when the weather got cold, and piled 6-12 inches of red cedar mulch around them. This year I only mulched them, and just a couple weeks ago I cut off the dead leaves and pulled the mulch back. I don't know what they'll do through the summer, but they're already tall (because I never cut them down last year), and they have tall, ratty leaves unraveling from the dead winter part at the top. I even have a banana stalk, which must have started last year...? Anyway, I don't know what to predict for this year, but we have had a very mild winter, and I just never got out the chainsaw. These plants are tough and hardy. Last Spring I decided to try to transplant a couple to the coast. I dug a long time at the base of some "small" ones (3-4 feet tall). I tried to cut the root, dig, kick - all with no results. My husband tied a 500-lb test line on the back of his truck, which I tied to the banana trees. One line broke. The second time, the line sheered off the trees at the base, but the root stayed. That root is still sitting out there, just a knob located where it wants to be. I keep a small plastic dinosaur on it as yard ornamentation.

Andy, I'm zone 7 but don't think there should be that much of a difference as we are both protecting our plants over the winter. Not a basjoo but my Himalayan (Musa sikkimensis) bloomed a few summers back. Last summer was a dud so bananas were off, this summer we had extremely dry conditions and I didn't even put them into the hot, dusty ground (now it's raining and raining!) But to get back to your question, mine bloomed with a heck of a lot fewer leaves than 20-25--maybe 8 or fewer of those enormous leaves on an 8 foot plant (have a pic somewhere I can post). It bloomed in September as I recall (a teacher wanted to bring it into his class to show the students how the bananas develop out a flower branches).--They kind of pop out suddenly those floral parts. Just keep watering and feeding! Good luck and post a pic if it does bloom.

Andrea, I have quietly been working on the root knot nematode problem for about 10 years. Hopefully you will be willing to spend a few dollars and experiment with the following ideas. You will need to set up three different plot areas within your garden for these trials. Plot #1 - Toss granulated sugar heavily over that section and water in. As you dig in each plant put a generous handful of sugar in the planting hole around the roots. Finish planting and water in each plant. Once a month top dress and scratch in several handsful of sugar around each plant. Plot #2 - At planting time place 4 tablespoons of powdered mustard in the plant hole around the roots. Water and then fill in the planting hole with soil. Top dress with mustard, scratching in around each plant once a month. Powdered mustard can be purchased by the pound from on-line spice stores such as Penzey's for a reasonable price. Plot #3 - Fill a watering can with water and add 3 tablespoons of castor oil. Stir with a stick. As you plant, water each hole with this soaking the plant roots and then finish planting. . Water the test plants with this castor oil mixture every two weeks for the entire growing season. Castor oil is expensive. Drug stores will order a quart for you. Despite the expense I would urge you to trial this method. These ideas have been tested and retested. I would be interested in your observations as to which one(s) shows promise.