Yes we left the PVC insert in the middle, I think it actually provided some extra structural integrity overall. I used a concrete mix, regular ole stuff you can buy a big hardware type store, I see you are in Australia. I then added sand and perlite dry colorant and fibers (an additive that can be gotten on line or perhaps if you ask at a redi-mix concrete store they will sell you some). I think if I did it again I would not add the fibers, just don't think they were necessary. To each bag of concrete mix (60lb bags) I added about 4cups of sand,4cups of perlite and a small handful of fibers. For the 48"x8" sono tube with a 4" PVC pipe in the middle I think I used approx 3 60# bags, I think I figured I could have used 2 80# bags instead with all the additives that I did; that part was actually sort of easy to figure if you look at the bag. I mixed mine in a cement mixer (also not necessary but convenient, sort of) to a fairly dry consistency. The first colum I made the mix too runny and there is a difference when I pulled the sono tube away. anyhow back to what I did. The drier mix I dropped in beside the PVC pipe and initially tried to go around fairly evenly so I did not have to adjust the PVC any more than I'd have to, the clips were to hold it but it did move slightly. By dropping the mix in and not tamping, the columns were mostly rough with spots that looked like they had eroded.The weight of each drop of mix ontop of the other actually did it's own settling. A few times we used a 2x4 to sort of tamp things down, but we did not want it solid. Things I would do differently is: 1)mix would be more consistent and drier, I stayed with the ingredients and that worked well, but had to figure out how much water worked in the mixer. 2) do the midcolumn section in shorter pieces, with couplings to fit them all together, 48x8" weighs a lot. sections of 16" would be much more reasonable. 3)release the column from the sono tube earlier and rough up the lines that were left, I still do not really like those. 4) use more colorant, and even consider each batch (or different bag) be a different color so it would look like stacked earth We altered the way we set them up, after the first season, instead of rebar into the ground we placed a reducing PVC coupling piece into the bottom that fit into a cement filled plastic bucket dug into the ground. We did this after one of the columns with just a flower bowl on top, fell over in the winter, the column just missed a weeping cherry and only broke the toe on Lizzy (4ft concrete lizard)glad no one was hurt, lesson learned. Here is a link to my webshots where you can see the columns I am very pleased overall and believe it is a doable project Dena Here is a link that might be useful: columns/behind the fence

Fossilnut- Check out the old threads about big spheres and mesh and Quickwall. You can sculpt whatever you want out of styrofoam then cut up pieces of EIFS mesh into rectangles or triangles about 5 by 6 inches or bigger and use them to overlap each other as they cover the styrofoam sculpture. As you cover, you use Quickwall like you would wall paper paste to make a paper mache covering over something. As you go, you can use roofing nails (they have large flat heads) to go thru the mesh into the styrofoam to help hold things down. After this coat dries, you whack in more roofing nails if places seem to want to pull away from the styrofoam. (this step isn't needed on the spheres but a shape with undercuts will probably need the nails) Next do a second coat of overlapping mesh and Quickwall. When this dries you will have an amazingly strong layer of concrete over your sculpture. Since each layer is 1/4 inch thick, you will just have a half inch of concrete to add weight to the styrofoam so your finished product is very light weight. Quickwall is waterproof so you have a surface that will hold up to the weather. Quickwall is made of portland cement so you also have a surface on which you can build up more layers of concrete texture or detail. This is really not much different than all the covered spheres we have discussed. There is no reason concrete sticks to the plastic ball or balloon - in fact it creates a slick surface that the ball pulls away from easily when you deflate it. The concrete doesn't really have to stick to the styrofoam any longer than it takes to create the shape of your sculpture and have it dry; it is just easier to leave the styrofoam inside the finished product since it doesn't deflate. Try a smallish piece now for practice - it will not be too heavy to take with you when you move. Have fun! Laura

ginny, really, not to worry.you're o.k. if you had a shattered piece, it would be awful but i think with cmeent and a clean break there's no huge worry. and yes, mark's solution is for outdoors cement. also, i think the treflers person you spoke to probly was just giving the 'lawsuit safe' answer. they could definitely fix it if you don't want to try it yourself. they've done a number of things for me over the years. you might also want to talk to your local masonry yard; they do sell concrete/cement sealants. we used such on an outdoor slate fntn because of flaking potential but we have never treated our outdoor cement sculptures. best, mindy

Oh my goodness! This is what I envisioned and was searching the web to see if I could find a picture where somebody else did it… Thank you, thank you, thank you! This is so beautiful! I would love to see some pictures of it as it has aged with its verdigris patina! Well done! And, thank you so much for sharing!