Toad, thanks for posting this question! This is my 4th season growing garlic. I've had the exact same experience this year that you are describing. All the other years the garlic was up in no time, within about a week. This year, however, I planted garlic almost a month ago and so far nothing. One day I got frustrated (I'm still working on the inpatient thing) I dug around till I found a bulb. The bulb was fine, no top growth but roots had just started to go down into the soil. Hopefully that particular bulb isn't a waste since I disturbed it. Glad to hear others post that all is still in the normal range of things. Michelle

baygrower, you need to remove all the mulch but leave a good 1" to suppress weeds. i put down 1-2" of salt marsh hay (or is it straw?) that i got for free and then put 5-6" of shredded leaves. it's all packed down to maybe 3-4" and i pulled off the top 1" and i'm going to leave the rest. the flakey texture of shredded leaves is so fine that the garlic easily grows thru it. tom

David, I have a slight issue with your way of thinking. I'm in zone 6 S.E Washington, we get some snow here and it gets real cold for a month at least. I do agree with moving the straw after the freezing weather and snow but not getting rid of it. What will keep the soil temps down when it gets up in the 90's or 104 degrees ? What is going to keep the soil moist so you don't have to water every other day if you don't put that straw back around the plants after they're up. I would rather bury the weeds in mulch/straw then be out there 2 hours a day watering and pulling weeds. The straw layer also keeps the soil softer and easier to dig the bulbs. Here we get 18" of rain a year, I see you're also in zone 6..don't know what part of how much rain you get. For me putting the straw back to regulate things works very well

Hi Diane, Susan's right...harvest your garlic when the lower leaves begin to turn yellow or when the tops begin to fall over. That can happen anywhere between late May and late July depending on numerous variables, including whether it was planted last fall or this spring, the variety planted, and the growing conditions/weather. Once harvested, be sure to cure the garlic properly so it will last longer in storage. To cure, spead the garlic out on a screen or wire mesh in a lightly shaded area so you can avoid sunscald. Be sure to either cover the garlic if it rains, or if you water the area with a sprinkler, so it won't get wet. Let the garlic cure for a couple of weeks. You will know it has cured when the skins are dry and the necks are tight. After it is dry, remove the tops (unless you are weaving them into a garlic braid) and store your bulbs in a dry, cool place. Well-cured garlic should last 5 to 8 months in storage. Don't forget to save the biggest, best and healthiest bulbs to plant in the late fall to early winter for next year's crop! If you select the best to re-plant every year, you will eventually have an adapted garlic that is perfect for your exact climate and growing conditions! Dawn