Okay, here is the dilemma,the hinges on the kitchen cabinets are old brass and can't be replaced. The cabinet shop that made the cabinets found some antique brass but I really don't want those. I can't afford to have new doors made for the cabinets so I'm going to have to paint the darn things. I have to get new pulls or knobs and am not sure what kind yet. So, here's the question. What color do I paint the hinges? Do I buy the pulls first and then do the hinges, or do I paint them white and find some pulls that will work?

Alisonn, I had a pool removed too when I bought my house here in NJ. There is a requirement from NJDEP that your removal company needs to comply with. Basically it concerns the fill material that gets put into the hole, how large the pieces are from the concrete that is broken up and put back into the hole, etc. In Atlantic county, I needed a demolition permit, and then had to get inspections once the pool was removed and the cement chunks put into the hole, then again after the final fill was completed. $3500 is a good price. Mine cost $5500 to remove. Good luck!

Yes, thanks for making that point, magic erasers are abrasive and I would not use one on a good smooth surface. However, in this case it has the opposite effect, and is actually smoothing the rough surface. Consider sandpaper grit sizes, if one was to sandpaper a surface such as raw wood, with 20 grit it would roughen the surface, but if 300 was used it would smooth the surface of the wood. So the smoothing or roughening of the surface is relative to the coarseness level of the abrasive to the surface. In the case of the old tub which has a roughness level of approximately Ra Micron (µm) 0.30 - (320 grit) vs. a new tub with a level of Ra Micron (µm) 0.10 (very smooth), abrading it with a magic eraser (3000 grit) would in fact smooth it, making it closer by a little bit to the original surface. Your statement “Once the porcelain over the iron is damaged, there is no seal or glazing or anything that fixes that.” is an assumption, I have repeatedly found it is best to avoid the terms “never” and “always” because they often prove in the end to be incorrect. There are many products, processes, developments, and solutions being continuously developed that were never thought possible. To just give up at the start is not the best approach in my experience. If the claims of the science behind some of the listed products is actual, then it would confirm my point. However, that said, there is also a lot of snake-oil bogus products around, and for me, the only way to verify the claims are to test them or ask people who have done so for their results, which brings us back to square one (read the original question).

I agree with palimpsest, I think it could be a very nice hutch if you can fill in the bottom and paint the back open area of the upper. I would also add at least one shelf in that space large upper opening, and paint the side walls along the uppers, also the same color as the hutch unit. Then frame the entire opening with nice casing that coordinates with the other trim in the room. You could cover the outlet with a panel, or you could use it for an attractive coffee maker or kettle, or even for a hot plate if you use the hutch for buffet service.