I've searched this forum. I feel that this question has probably been asked but I'm not finding any answers. I'm hoping someone can shed some light on this. I'm painting & glazing my kitchen cabinets. It's been a long process as the first attempt with a latex paint & glaze didn't hold up well (the paint probably didn't cure long enough so everything stuck) and the color was too dark. So after stripping them, sanding, priming with oil, used impervo oil paint & oil glaze, I'm finally getting somewhere. I've waited a week in between coats so curing won't be an issue this time. I also plan to wait a week or 2 after sealing before hanging the doors this time. The color I ended with is a medium brown color. I used BM impervo in valley forge brown as my base & oil glaze mixed with seed color paint. I'm hoping to use a sealer that will not amber as I DON'T want to end up with an orange or dark walnut color. Okay, I've always heard that you cannot put a water finish over oil paint but in researching on some other sites, I've heard you actually can. Has anyone put a water based poly over oil paint/glaze? I really don't want to start over again especially since the color is right now. Since I stripped them the last time, I've added molding to my doors, decorative molding at the top & base of cabinets and wainscotting on the end panels so stripping them again will be a huge pain. Any thoughts? If you've had success please tell me which brand you used. Thanks! Donna

Pam our walls in the back basement were coated with LastiSeal Concrete & Brick Sealer. It can be repainted later and will protect the brick where you still have some paint. The details on the product are here: We didn't do this so I can't tell you how it smells etc. It looks pretty much like the rest of the brick (they ad an odor issue in the back room and tried this to help). A marble sealer isn't a good idea. It penetrates the marble (or brick in this case) and given you have paint, it's not going to penetrate that area so you'll get a spotty application and I'm not thinking you could repaint over that either...but on that I can't be sure. I just know it wouldn't apply cleanly because when I seal our marble it does not stick to any of the painted trim next to the marble (I can wipe it off the next day if I've missed a spot) or the caulk so there's no way it's going to penetrate where you have your paint. When you miss a spot (on paint) it gets gummy....all over a wall? Yuck that could be a mess. As to the water based poly. I'd try a test spot in a hidden or near the floor area and see if it works. IT's pretty easy to apply and I've found it to be a good solution for protecting walls as well. When it does not work you know right away because it gums up on stuff it does not like. I have used it over paint and dyes and never had a problem, even unstable ones. The trick on unstable paints or dyes is to brush over ONCE and move on!!! Don't keep brushing and it will seal things down where they are. Use a very good brush and take it slowly. Here is a link that might be useful: LastiSeal

First, check the owner's manual for the model you have to see if there are recommended cleaning supplies to use and to avoid. If you think you're in the clear, I'd contact the dealer from which you bought it to see if it's still under warranty. If so, you might be able to get a replacement door. Good luck.

Poly over paint?!?!?!? NO, NO......a hundred times NO!!!! What nobody realizes, is that paint has to cure for MANY DAYS, sometimes even two WEEKS! You can't trap a paint-system that's trying to CURE-OUT, under clearcoats!! It will usually lead to wrinkling, possible peeling, etc. Clearcoats are NOT NEEDED, in ANY way, over a good trim-paint. Besides............NOBODY is going to wait 2-3 weeks, & setup shop again to do coats of totally unneeded clears. Whoever started this goofy notion that Polys need to be done over paints.....should be strang****. Oooooppps! No, something far worse! Make them listen to country-music!!!! Mwahahahah! Faron