Great idea, if you can do it without scratching or marring the glaze on the tile. The best technique to use will depend on what type of paint it is. Do you know if it's latex or oil? It's likely to be oil paint because it's in the shower area, but it would be good to know for sure because you could use a gentler process if it's latex. Since it's an old house, it's possible that it's lead paint (if it's an oil-based paint -- latex paints didn't contain lead AFAIK). Also, be aware that the PO may have painted the tile because some of it was damaged. One way to test whether it's a latex paint is to wet a rag with denatured alcohol and rub an inconspicuous spot. If the denatured alcohol softens the paint or if the paint comes off on the rag, it's latex. (Obviously, use a dark rag since the paint is white.) If it's latex, the paint should be relatively easy to remove, at least from the tile. (Removing the paint from the grout may be tougher.) I would first try to soften it with a heat gun (testing first in an inconspicuous spot) and gently rub it off or carefully scrape it off with a razor blade or putty knife. If that doesn't work, try a latex remover such as Goof-Off before resorting to a chemical stripper, which could damage the glaze or the grout. If you do have to use a paint stripper, you should be able to use a relatively mild one to remove latex paint. (IME, just about any paint stripper works well with latex paint -- not so with oil paint.) If it's an oil-based paint, you'll probably have to use a stronger paint stripper. Look for a paste-type stripper that will cling to the walls. Before using, it'd be smart to call the paint stripper manufacturer and ask if the product is safe for tile and grout. Use good ventilation and be careful not to let the stripper come in contact with any vinyl, fiberglass, or cultured marble surfaces. If the stripper damages the grout, you may have to re-grout. Let us know what works.

It looks (from here) to be a ca. 1900-1910 oak mantel. The tile, I doubt it. It would have had a beveled mirror originally. The finish looks to be redone at some point. That color is wrong for 1900-era oak. It would have been a lot more vibrant, it looks really flat with almost no grain showing. Casey

OK, it's not granite. This is very different from what we imagined (It's not a polished granite). I'd continue the cleaning (very diluted version of muriatic acid) until you have the mortar joints as consistent as possible. Then do the "wet test" to get a visual: wipe/dab with a wet sponge and see if you like it. This will be the more extreme "seal and enhance" effect. Let it dry for days and then use a stone seal and enhance product. Talk to the suppliers in your area about a seal & enhance product that is used in stages. Start light and reapply to your desired sheen and color - use a dabbing technique. Always start in the most inconspicuous area. That's what we would do. You need a little more elbow grease first to clean up the mortar. . Good luck.

Now I'm second guessing my layout... Room is about 18x19 [18' is fireplace wall.] It's open kitchen to dining to great. Thought was if there was a gathering involving a game or something folks could see tv from anywhere... plus the windows are fairly low and the couch would sit a bit into the 'view' but I suppose not a big deal? Ugh. lol. The console I really dig and seem to match the mantle is this one @Beverly posted. Plus great price! It's 62" wide but only 29.5" tall. Could I add cool industrial casters or something? If I did re-arrange furniture I have a long black console that I would use [currently in basement]. Would I still do consoles on each side of fireplace or just chairs and art? How would I do art on the giant wall ? Currently planning on various art in a collage to fill that space. Opinions? Thanks.