I cant find the thread over at the paint forum, but the person who referred krack-kote stated the importance of knowing that you cant really sand it. Reading the website it states that small ridges and imperfections can be sanded when fully dry but appearently it needs to be applied as smooth as posslble, feathering the edges. Hopefully you'll get a response from someone that has used it, i never have. If it is compatible with joint compound, im wondering if krack-kote embedded in the crack leaving a minor void to be filled with joint compound would work, as it would finish better over the recommende fabric, i would assume.

That was what I was getting at with who the workers were and what there level of experience was. GG is used everyday all over the country I would have guaranteed the rep would have given you that answer. Are these guys actually drywall contractors?

Hello everyone, I wanted to provide an update on the situation. Recently we endured two of the rainiest days in the last 20 years. My property received just over 6 inches of rain during the two day period. This rain was not a direct downpour, it included 20mph winds from virtually every direction at one time or another. I know the window was being hit with rain because of the fact that there was water in the tracks and that water was dripping from the weep holes. During these days the window did not appear to leak at all. The window and the wall below it remained completely dry. Based on the fact that the window is poor quality, I still plan on completely replacing it in the spring, when I can get a dry window of weather. A piece of me was hoping that it would leak so I could be sure of where it was leaking!

I’m not arguing because he’s offered a solution that may work however, the comment by GN Builders suggests a sealant. That’s basically caulk. Our home has vaulted ceiling’s on the 2nd floor. They showed serious cracks during the new home warranty period. The builder applied some caulking to repair. It wasn’t nicely “finished”, wouldn’t hold paint and during the following winter movement caused it to tear free. Dynaflex 230 may not have those characteristics but I’d apply to a small section and wait to see. I removed all the original tape and the caulk to retape with a corner bead for vaulted ceilings similar to the earlier link. It’s lasted over 20 years.