Stairwell/Newel post
Hello,
Just seeking thoughts/opinions on the placement of this newel post. I've rarely if ever seen it with space between the post and first stair, even if it means that first margin is less than the rest. Builder wasn't entirely sure (is going to get with the subs and find out) but thought it was perhaps to keep the margins the same, and to avoid cutting into the oak tread. know there are alot of factors that go into building a railing, so perhaps there's a technical reason why only this would work or was just the best option.
Was interested in getting other thoughts/opinions and maybe some pros could weigh in...
Thanks for the help!
Comments (10)
cpartist
2 months agoThat does not look right. Here's mine before it was stained to give you an idea.
Here it is finished from the other side
Jess R thanked cpartistRelated Discussions
Help with railing/newel post(s) on open treads please
Comments (25)mairin - I guess there's a chance they'd mess up the finished floor if they did that now? Anyway, I wanted the newel just 1 step up, same as it would be if we had a bullnose step and volute/turnout, they could still notch it out to snug up to 2nd tread. But 1st guy didn't want to do that, wanted permnission in writing from building inspector (and now 9 months later I'm even more reluctant to go asking), 2nd guy never got back to me after coming out for a quote and nodding his head yes the whole time, and my cousin who has been doing all the trim in my house (and building new window jambs and stools where the builder didn't do them right) says that he doesn't want to do it, even if we put blocking under the first tread. I guess when they're on the floor they actually are attached to a joist? I showed him pics of crazyhouse6's newel and he didn't think it would hold up to lateral forces (swinging), though it was fine for someone just pulling straight on it. So what do you think of my newel options? Which should I choose? It will be 2 weeks to get the oak contemporary newel that I posted first. The 2.5 x 3.5 blocks of cherry are here, just need to get cousin to cut and route them, I can put clear finish on and get them up but I don't know how they look with oak rail. My favorite is still the vertical volute with a newel somewhere near the bottom, but I haven't even thought of balusters (BC newel and rail with oak balusters?), and I need to find someone to install it....See MoreIs there a right size newel post or is it preference?
Comments (2)@Judy G Designs- Thanks for your input. What are your thoughts on a design for single and double knuckle balusters? I am hesitant to have a single or double for every baluster since I am afraid it will look too busy. I have been told to have at least one or two plain balusters between ones with designs (knuckles)....See MoreWhat kind of wood, and how large of a newel post do we need?
Comments (5)What you want is a box newel post. They come in standard sizes. I suspect you'll be able to choose once you browse the sizes that are available. If you're buying a standard item to save money, you'll probably have few wood choices, the most common being Poplar and Red Oak. The stain might need to be altered somewhat to achieve a match....See MoreNewell posts too big. Now what.
Comments (17)Don't shoot the messenger! Joseph Corlett may be blunt, but he is trying to rethink your situation before you spend even more money chasing an idea that will not look right. It is unfortunate that you did not get such a blunt answer before you spent time and money pursuing this scheme. It is your house and you can do whatever you can talk the GC into doing and the inspector into approving but that does not make it attractive or practical or increase your house's market value You already know there is an issue with your original plan or you would not have posted your question. Step back from the emotional side and read the answers you are getting. All the money you have spent is a sunk cost and continuing on the same path will not change that fact. Evaluate where you are and move forward with a good plan using the right material for the project...See More
kculbers
2 months agoWe had a new oak staircase installed a few years ago by a fabulous carpenter who only installs staircases. I spent a lot of time finding this carpenter: did lots of research, looked at their portfolios, and interviewed several. The carpenter we chose worked by himself, and did a superb job. He spent a lot of time matching the staircase stain to our Italian porcelain wood look tile flooring. We are quite happy with the outcome! Enclosed are pictures: no gapping.
Jess R thanked kculbersJess R
2 months agolast modified: 2 months agoAppreciate the responses.
@kculbers @cpartist beautiful staircases!
@cpartist would you mind to elaborate on your comment regarding a lip with post on top of it?
I also found the piece on the last riser before landing odd (circled in photo), and not sure how that would even work as we discussed the risers and stringer(?) being white with treads stained (though not completely decided).
@ppf that's very helpful, thank you. We've found it odd from the get go that the bottom half is open stringer while the top has a knee wall (story for another day) as it seems it's usually one or the other on both. Not sure if that's affecting any of the things you mentioned from a technical standpoint, though it doesn't sound like it. I've not really found any examples where the post isn't integrated.
The stained piece running along the side of the bridge (but only on the one side) also seems odd (though this has all just gone up and I can only assume they don't intend for that to stay stained as opposed to painted white). It's obviously not finished yet but the post was the first thing I noticed that seemed especially odd.
Thanks again for the help.
cpartist
2 months agocpartist
2 months agoJess R
2 months ago
PROPPF.
2 months agoAre you saying some of this will be painted -- only the treads (and railing?) will be stained?
Sounds like a meeting with your contractor is needed to discuss the problems and finalize the plan to complete.
This skirtboard should tuck under the cap and the cap should overhang it just a bit.
Jess R thanked PPF.Jess R
2 months agoThanks, PPF. Yes, that was what we were leaning toward. Is that gap between top riser and landing unusual, as well? Obviously not completed yet so maybe getting ahead of ourselves but seems like an awfully large gap
PPF.