This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

You can adjust the pop-up drain under the sink (behind the drain) where it attaches to the down rod. It usually has a set screw, or a spring clamp that let's you switch holes in the downrod. Some of the cheaper big box brands (such as one that rhymes with "shampton bray") may not adjust very well, esp. if they're lightweight and have a rubber gasket. A last resort is to replace the pop-up assembly with a better/heavier one.

"Step2) A second physical wire from panel going to GFCi1. Which in turn will connect to GFCi2 in parallel." You don't need GFCI2. You connect a regular duplex receptacle to the "LOAD" side of GFCI1 and then the second recept will be ground fault protected. This common setup saves you money. "Step3) I will then run a physical wire from GFCi1 to Switch1 which will turn on the vanity light." Connect the wire to Switch1 before the line side of GFCI1. There is no reason to GFCI a lighting circuit. That way if you do have a ground fault trip in the bathroom, at least you'll have lights to see what you're doing. Your device box for GFCI1 also serves as your junction box for the connection of the wire to switch1. "Step4) From GFCi2 I will run a physical wire to switch2 which will run a main bathroom light and fan which will just be hooked in series." I wouldn't do that either. I'd run your Switch2 power from before GFCI1 or from the actual device box at Switch1. Again, you don't want/need GFCI protection for lights and fan.

Here's my take: 1. It may be getting to the end of its useful life, but it sounds like there is nothing wrong or malfunctioning at the moment. My water heater is 17 years old and is still functioning just fine, although I realize it's living on borrowed time. So when it fails, I'm ready to replace it. 2. Your 12 year old water heater will already have a good level of insulation, and, since a new one would be running on electricity also, a new tank is unlikely to be much more efficient. Recent efficiency gains in water heater technology mainly have to do with tanks that have combustion systems, like natural gas. So I doubt that you will see big energy savings from switching to a "more efficient" unit...perhaps a couple of percent, if that. If you switch to a smaller tank, there will be some savings because a smaller tank has less surface area to transfer heat, but the savings will not knock your socks off in your climate. 3. What mainly drives costs is that the groundwater coming in to the water tank must be heated from its inlet temperature to about 120 degrees F. In places that get cold in the winter, that inlet temperature can be below 40 degrees F, which means that the water temp must be increased by at least 80 degrees F; however, you are in the warmest part of the U.S. and your groundwater is close to 80 degrees F already, which means that you only need to use about half as much energy to get the water up to 120 degrees F. And, since your water heater is located inside the living space, the standby losses will be less than someone like me who lives in a place that can approach freezing in winter and has a water heater in an unheated space. 4. It's true that water heaters can lose efficiency over time, particularly if you have hard water and you get mineral scaling building up on the heating elements. However, it's quite simple to replace the heating elements and rejuvenate your tank for not much money: Heating element replacement 5. There's nothing wrong with having an 80 gallon water heater for two people. There are only two of us in my house and ours is 75 gallons. And when two of us take showers, one after the other, we start to run out of hot water. What I recommend is you look at what the energy efficiency label says on your existing tank about annual operating costs, and compare it to the label on a couple of possible replacement tanks. Then compare the amount of annual savings to the total cost of replacing your existing tank now to see how many years (or decades) it will take to break even. I'm not saying that your plumber is lying to you, but he does have a financial incentive to convince you that there will be big savings to switch out your tank soon. My advice is to wait until the old tank fails and and then get a new, efficient one. How big will depend on your lifestyle, and how long your shower runs daily. If you never run out of hot water, you could certainly downsize some, but don't end up decreasing it by a huge amount or you may end up unhappy.