This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

"Step2) A second physical wire from panel going to GFCi1. Which in turn will connect to GFCi2 in parallel." You don't need GFCI2. You connect a regular duplex receptacle to the "LOAD" side of GFCI1 and then the second recept will be ground fault protected. This common setup saves you money. "Step3) I will then run a physical wire from GFCi1 to Switch1 which will turn on the vanity light." Connect the wire to Switch1 before the line side of GFCI1. There is no reason to GFCI a lighting circuit. That way if you do have a ground fault trip in the bathroom, at least you'll have lights to see what you're doing. Your device box for GFCI1 also serves as your junction box for the connection of the wire to switch1. "Step4) From GFCi2 I will run a physical wire to switch2 which will run a main bathroom light and fan which will just be hooked in series." I wouldn't do that either. I'd run your Switch2 power from before GFCI1 or from the actual device box at Switch1. Again, you don't want/need GFCI protection for lights and fan.

G'day, Aussiepete- I'm also a Pete who was/is an Aussie -well I was born in Canada but lived in Australia and NZ most of my adult life. I have a copy of the BC electrical code, simplified - if you went to your local Home Hardware, you may be able to get a version for your own province, or from a student bookshop where they teach electrical trades. I will go out on a limb and say this should be the same for your province, since I believe they're working on a national code for Canada (except, maybe Quebec? - a little separatist humour there) Rules 6-206 2-308(1) and 26-402 state that "nor should it (the service panel) be in bathrooms, clothes closets, stairwells, kitchen cabinets or similar places. So I guess you'll have to think of something else - I wonder, though, if constructing a utility closet WITHIN a bathroom would be acceptible, but keep in mind, you want room to work in there. Maybe you should go to wherever it is you go to book an inspection and ask their advice. I'm sure they would be happy to make suggestions, after all at least initially (but be ready to submit and be inspected when you build it) you won't be doing any wiring work, you just (quite rightly) don't want to violate the code (potentially having to remove or rectify the work later)

Paint the base the same color as the wall underneath there because the contrast is accentuating it. Or do as Fori suggested and cover with the floor tile. Tile would be a lot easier to keep clean; I wouldn't want to have to lay down on the floor to dust or clean the baseboard. (I have an ongoing, never-ending battle with lint and hair in the master bath.) I like GNB's idea to angle off the corners, too. Looks good and, again, easier to clean. Or just leave it be, It's something you have to bend over or lay down on the floor to see. I'd wager that 99.9 people out of 100 would never notice it.