Should I move sink to peninsula?
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2 months ago
last modified: 2 months ago
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Bet Maryland
2 months agolast modified: 2 months agoRelated Discussions
Can I move this sink w/o moving plumbing?
Comments (8)Given that your are under the IRC the solution to your problem is fairly easy. in your original post you stated that you want to move your sink about 15" to one side of where the existing sink is. You didn't state whether you were moving to the right or the left, but then that really doesn't matter anyway, except for the sake of illustration allow me to say we are moving to the right. If you are in fact moving to the left the procedure will be the same but in the opposite direction. We can use the simple triangle formula which states that the length of the hypotenuse of a triangle is equal to the square root of Side A squared plus side B squared. We are moving 15" horizontal along the wall from the existing fixture arm, so let us say "Side A" =15" and the center of the drain is approximately 12" forward from the wall so let us say "Side B"=12". L= the square root of (A squared + B squared) Where A = 15" and B= 12" L = the square root of (15 x 15 + 12 x 12) L= the square root of 225 + 144 L= the square root of 369 L=19.2" If we were certain that there is a vent behind the wall in the manner that i showed in the previous illustration this short length would be of no consequence, however since we don't know whether that vent exists we must then presume that the fixture arm in the wall may turn horizontal and run a short distance to the vent stack. Understanding that the codes are very specific in regards to the maximum length of the fixture arm from the trap weir to the vent we must then assume that an additional 19" could extend us beyond the allowable limit. Fortunately you are under the IRC, which allows us to use an AAV and no one will ever fault your for having additional venting so we may proceed without opening the wall. You stated that the existing fixture arm exits the wall, then turns down and back up. That in itself is a code violation for two reasons. 1. dropping down then back up creates a trap and the codes prohibit have two successive traps in series. 2. There must be an even 1/4" per foot downward slope from the trap weir to the vent. I would begin by cutting the existing fixture arm about 1-1/2" from the wall then attach the discharge end of a Wye on the fixture arm with the side opening of the Wye pointing in the direction of your new trap location. One the end of the Wye I would install a female thread adapter and a cleanout cap. i would then install a 1/16 street bend in the side opening of the Wye. (NOTE- A 1/16th street bend is a 22.5 degree sanitary elbow that has a female hub on one end and a male spigot on the other end.) Next cut about a 2" or 3" section of sched.40 PVC and insert one end into the hub on the 1/16th street bend. Position this Wye with the side opening pointing up and install a 18th street bend in the side opening of the second Wye.(The side opening of a Wye comes off at 45deg. adding the 1/8th street bend will then complete the 90deg upward turn. (Note-you must use a wye & 1/8 bend here because the code prohibits a Tee on a horizontal line.) Cut another 2" length of sched.40 PVC and insert it in the top of the 1/8th bend, then install a female thread adapter on the top end of that PVC nipple. You can now screw an AAV into that thread adapter. NOTE-With the Wye, 1/8th bend, PVC nipple and the thread adapter you should easily have the required 4" from the top of the fixture arm to the base of the AAV.) Now connect your trap to the sink tailpiece and direct the tailpiece of the trap towards your new fixture arm. You can then compute the final length from the opening of the second Wye to the position where your new Trap adapter will be. (When all is said and done, you may need to cut a bit off the end of the trap tailpiece. that is ok)...See MoreMoving a sink from wall to the middle of peninsula
Comments (5)Assuming that the peninsula is permanently installed running the lines under the cabinet would afford the lines the same level of protection as if they were run through a chase and surely more protection than if it was run through the cabinets, however the actual distance you could run would be dependant upon how the cabinets are made. Typically the vertical clearance in the underside of the cabinet base is the same as the vertical height of the toe kick, which is generally 3-1/2" Under the IRC a kitchen sink drain line is 1-1/2" pipe and the outside diameter of 1-1/2" sched.40 PVC is 1-7/8. Subtracting 1-7/8" from 3-1/2" leaves us 1-5/8" for pipe pitch, (assuming of course that the downstream end of the pipe is flat with the floor.) Code requires a 1/4" per/ft pitch so the absolute maximum horizontal length we could fit in the space is 6=1/2'of pipe, however that is assuming that on the downstream end of the pipe you dig into the concrete and set a Tee so that the pipe will be flush with the floor on the downstream end and that you make the hole in the cabinet base on the upstream end large enough to allow the pipe to be flush with the underside of the cabinet base, otherwise you will loose about 1/4" to the sidewall of the 1/4 bend turning up, which would be equal to 1' of run. The problem is venting the trap. Under the IRC for a fixture arm the bottom of the pipe at the trap weir may not be higher than the top of the pipe at the vent opening therefore you would need to provide a vent near the sink. The IRC allows an unlimited number of AAV's (Air Admittance Valves commonly called Studor vents or cheater vents) You could then connect a vertical riser from the 1/4bend at the cabinet base and run a vertical up to the fixture arm height where you install a Tee, then extend the vertical riser at least 6" and install an AAV. The preferred option would be to install an island loop vent in the cabinet at the sink location. Under the UPC they require the kitchen drain line to be 2" pipe therefore you could configure in about the same manner but the maximum horizontal length that would fit under the cabinet is about 4'....See Moreshould I move my prep sink?
Comments (14)As others have pointed out, you have a couple of fairly big functional issues - the island prep sink location and the DW in the way of the workspace b/w the sink and range coupled with the trash pullout too far from the range. If you're open to major rearranging of cabinets to include adding 3" to the length of the island and 3" to the length of the sink counter run... This is your current layout with base and wall cabinets labeled Here's a re-arrangement of the cabinets. The most changes are to the base cabs, including switching the 36" cabinet to the left of the sink with the 33" cabinet in the island, thus making the island 3" longer and making up for 3 of the 6 inches added to the sink run when switching the DW & trash but leaving the sink where it currently is. Because the sink cannot move, I added a 6" filler pullout b/w the trash pullout and the blind corner cabinet (another issue, but less important) to fill the 6" leftover from the 24" space originally there for the DW. Filler pullouts do not require a cabinet - they install b/w two cabinets. The pullout is attached to the wall of the cabinets on either side. It can be used for spices, oils, etc. or might be a pegboard for holding utensils or lids to pans. I've linked to Rev-A-Shelf so you can see some examples. Note that I also switched the 30" upper cabinet to the left of the sink with the 33" one to the right of the range. This adds the extra 3" to the upper cabs to match the extra 3" in the base cabs. I actually think you might be better off with the narrower cab over that short run of counter to the right of the range b/c it appears to be very close to a door and it's nice to give the door trim some "breathing space" b/w it and cabinets next to it, especially upper cabinets b/c they're more visible/noticeable. It will also look less crowded. Plus, since the upper cabinet does not extend to the end of the counter on the left, I don't think it will be an issue that it doesn't extend to the end of the counter run on the right. So, why did I say the blind corner cabinet was an issue? Because these types of cabinets are generally used only as a last resort when corner susans (or corner drawers) cannot be used b/c there's not enough space on one side of the corner. In your case, you have 12" b/w the range and corner cabinet - the exact amount of room needed for a corner susan. Blind corner cabinets are difficult to access, even with some of the half-moon & similar pullout inserts. I won't go into the pros & cons here since you cannot change the corner - but keep it in mind if you ever remodel again. Here is a link that might be useful: Rev-A-Shelf Base Filler Pullouts...See MoreI want to move stuff in now...should I wait?
Comments (9)Oh, contraire!! I used my kitchen for weeks before my hardware was installed. The drilling for holes and install didn't make that much mess. For the most part, I just moved a couple of things in the drawer and wiped. It only took a few minutes, but was worth being able to put all my junk away. Course, I had working plumbing, range hood, and MW though so the kitchen was completely usable otherwise. After plumbing, I think I'd do hardware next then range hood. Fridge water line, trim work, and open shelving can wait. I'm sorry the end is dragging on so slowly for you! How frustrating!...See MoreBet Maryland
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