I used bianca carrera for the master on two of my own homes, including walls, and on a main bath. To keep it sparkling, it needs to be professionally cleaned and buffed every few years. I didn't and it looked the worse for wear when we sold the home after six years. Be sure to wipe up bodily waste stains immediately or they will quickly eat into the marble.

I was going to do a medium-grey soapstone (still sad I'm not doing it, actually) and I think that would look great. Or obviously if you don't want soapstone you could get something like either grey or charcoal-colored Ceasarstone which is pretty nice I think. Whatever you do, it shouldn't have too much in the way of speckles, sparkles, swirls, veins, in my opinion. If you get a soapstone, I'd get one that has very little veining. We've made the crazy decision to do stainless w/ marble subway tile backsplash. I would NEVER have gone for this (I want a period kitchen in my 1913 house) had I not seen very inspiring pictures online and in magazines, that show a stainless counter w/ white farm sink in an old house, with marble backsplash, white cabinets, wood floors and an island with either a marble top or something that contrasts with the stainless such as butcher block or soapstone. I prefer to have my island's top be a nice rich wood, just cause it warms up the coolness of the stainless steel, and was often seen near the steel counters in the early 1900's homes (only back then, instead of stainless, the counters were zinc...so really, stainless isn't too far from period). Anyway, I digress, obviously (still trying to talk myself into the decision I've already made!), but wanted to point out that if you're not going to be as nutty as me and do stainless, any greyish color that's pretty simple/uniform would be beautiful. I even think wood would work, if the marble had some tan in it. Here's a nice gray caesarstone: http://www.caesarstoneus.com/catalog/product.cfm?ProductID=111 Here's the marble subway tile that inspired me (when I thought I was getting dark grey countertop): http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0222343629720.html Here's the stainless pic w/ marble backsplash that most inspired me (although I prefer subway marble): http://picasaweb.google.com/quapaw/Our1890HomeAndKitchenRemodelRestoration?feat=embedwebsite#5252790674989404962 This is my favorite soapstone link (from gardenweb). It's got veins but very subtle: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0110311030000.html?11 And here's some beautiful marble minibrick subway tile, w/ black or dark grey countertop: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg101250599127.html HTH, and sorry I don't know how to put in proper links (sorry you need to cut/paste)!

Hello! You have a very interesting issue! And, like you, I looked at both marmoleum and cork for my 1936 kitchen, as both are period appropriate. I've decided on cork from duro-design. I was concerned about seams showing in the click flooring. I had heard that Marmoleum, the sheet kind, not the click kind, was a kind of fussy installation that even flooring installers who are used to sheet vinyl find difficult. And So I found a local Marmoleum certified installer. He sold a lot of different types of floors, but even so hadn't done too many Marmoleum installs. I felt like I would be a guinea pig. Again, I was also concerned about seams. The borders for the sheet goods have heat sealed seams, but you would still have open seams where the border meets the sheet lino, unless you specify "welded" seams. They're heat sealed on site, and it costs extra. That said, the costs for Marmoleum and the cork were comparable. Here's why I chose the cork -- I've decided to use durodesign's glue-down cork tile that has a mfr-applied urethane layer and it will get the 4 coats of low voc urethane that I'll apply. That made all the difference to me, because as someone who has installed ceramic tile, peel-and-stick vinyl, wide plank wood and god only knows what all else, I hate seams. They catch dirt, etc. I like the site-applied urethane because it will fill any seams and make for a much more durable floor. Even though the cork tiles should be installed tightly against each other, even smooshed together a little, there will be seams. The urethane sounds easy to apply (much like the tung oil finish that we applied to our wide-plank floors) and can also be hand-sanded and reapplied after 5 years, so that's a plus. And just judging by the very pretty samples that durodesign sent, it's going to be a joy to stand on these guys. Very comfy. I'm going to try either an all over tone-on-tone checkerboard (Barriga Leather Brown and Light Oak), or a checkerboard inset "rug effect" (leather brown and light oak)with a whiskey brown border in the center of the room, surrounded by a light oak or leather brown field. And I'm going to install it myself, if I don't jinx myself here. All of this to say that if you are interested in DIY, I think the cork is the way to go. Also, I think there's an inspiration pic I used from Country Living that shows how pretty cork can be with white cabs. If I find it, I'll link.

The 2" imho provides more traction; I have the basketweave type and the grout has held up well after 18 months. But it doesn't get daily bath traffic, but lots of other foot/shoe traffic (main bath downstairs). With regard to soap, I should have said slightly soapy water. While soap is an issue on any floor, I think with polished marbles it is magnified about 3x. (Ours are 12x12) There just is no traction at all -- even a puddle of plain water can be slippery if you don't keep up with your sealant. And even then, those with fragile balance may have issues. .