Kismet, I love this kitchen too and it is my inspiration kitchen. I would love the aqua blue if I could keep the Roesmary Sprig. I am really emotionally invested in this color. Do you think I could get away with that? Lyfia, your approach is what seems easiest to me too, white on uppers and lowers with white on panleing and Rosemary sprig on walls. But ... Falling waters, do you think that even if I had a darker floor you'd want the Rosemary Sprig on the bottom? Maybe white on paneling and trim and Rosemary Sprig on top part of walls and on lower cabinets???? BTW, what color is the yellow cream you have in your bedroom?

There is a Pinterest post that has the cabinets and counters. The sink I have is not white but copper and I do have the handles . I’m not very tech savvy but will try to copy the link https://pin.it/pi37l3h4gou57aWhat do you think?

If you put a DecoArts paint on the cabinets with or without preparation, you're going to dealing with an abraded finish fairly soon on down the line, probably within 3 years. Kitchen cabinetry is exposed to stresses that other furniture isn't in terms of food staining, hands repeatedly touching the finish around hardware, and moisture. Living along the San Francisco coast, you are also going to be dealing with humidity changes that will promote wood's expansion and contraction, straining the coating at the joints in the process, causing paint to crack. Benjamin Moore's Advance is a one-part coating that is often used for entry-level cabinetry painting, but even it won't give you the long-wearing properties that a two-part catalytic conversion varnish or a two-part Italian waterborne coating would. ICA-Ilva two-part waterborne finishes are approved for use in California, and Veteran cabinet builder @jdesign_gw who is based in California has said in another thread that this is almost all he uses. The newer high-tech waterbornes that are two-component from companies like Milesi, Renner, Sayerlack, and ICA-Ilva rival the chemical and moisture resistance that only oil-based paints used to provide, plus there is the advantage of non-yellowing finishes with the waterbornes. The better paints also provide some degree of elasticity to help prevent joint cracking, though never eliminating it. Clear top coats crack as well as opaque paints, but it is not as noticeable over a wood look. Standard preparation would be to strip and sand your current finish. Then, the drawers and drawer fronts would be removed and taken to a shop with a clean room for painting. The remaining frames would be sealed off and sprayed on site, 2 coats minimum on everything. Your kitchen is on the large side. You live in a high cost of living area. Professional painting done with correct surface preparation will likely be running you at least $4,000 USD but probably closer to $7,000 if you go with a quality, two-part finish coating from a reputable painter.

Someone in the past posted her kitchen using Farrow and Ball Pigeon. I love this green and think it could compliment your floor and granite.