FWIW, If you are worried about your cast iron scratching your induction just use a silicone hot pad under the skillit while you are cooking. As long as it is rated at least 500 - 600 deg. IT will work fine to protect your glass from possible scratching from the pans. It will rob a little bit of power but works just fine. I fry with cast iron skillits and it works great!

When I called Salon Blue Ridge about DeDietrich, hoping to find zoneless, they told me they only sold a couple of basic models, though direct import from Europe is possible. But that wouldn't help the ridge/lip thing. It is possible to get hot spots on induction, even though it's possible to warm up all of a pan that is highly compatible (i.e., lots of iron). Some of it is going to be trial and error to find what temperatures work for you and how they affect your particular pans. Some people have some success using an oblong grill/griddle with a shallow lip on induction. This may depend on the sensitivity of the unit. Some units specifically say they will work up to 1/4" above the surface. The question is really whether the pot detector will detect your griddle pan. Round, single sided, griddles and grill pans are made for use on induction to take advantage of 11" elements.

Thanks for the info, Amcook. I was "taught" by Asian (as in from Japan and Honk Kong) home cooks who use big chopsticks with their woks. I didn't mean to imply that there aren't other valid ways. Only that that was the only way I know, and I'm not fast or accurate enough to do it properly. The metal has a taste remark was to Weisman, who said one needed chopsticks to eat the food. I found myself thinking that they do make a difference in the taste, which, at least for me, comes down to metal or plastic, both of which I can taste when I use such forks, and the polished surface of good chopsticks, which I guess also has a taste, now that I think of it, but it's "right" with Asian food. Not saying I've never used a fork on leftover takeout. Just agreeing about the flavor. And yes, stainless steel has a taste, but it doesn't come off on stuff. It's the fork itself that has the taste. I think anyone who is a very good wok cook would be happier in moving to induction with a bowl shaped specialty burner, which works well with your hand hammered wok. I looked at the stainless specialty induction woks, like Demeyere, and the Gaggenau unit/wok, and they looked all wrong to me. The Le Creuset just said it wanted to live it my house with all my other Le Creuset. There are very few flat outside, round inside cast iron woks. This one seems to work pretty well on the induction. The only issue would be the power, because the diameter of the bottom isn't big enough to trigger the outer ring. It should work okay on my front 2.2KW ring (about 15k BTU), though, which should give it a faster recovery time. The important part is that it certainly gets hot enough for stir fry, even on the 1.8. The outer ring boosts to 4.4KW, which is more than 30,000 BTU, but there isn't a round bottomed wok which has a big enough contact radius to take advantage of the 20,000 BTU large element, or the 30,000 BTU boost, but for normal portions, it shouldn't be necessary. This is something for people to consider when they're looking at total power on a flat surfaced induction unit. To me, the shape of the interior of a wok is the whole point. Other people are happy making a stir fry in one of those wok/frying pan hybrids, or just a skillet, which would be big enough to take advantage of the maximum power. And it made very nice, American style fritters.

Scratching, chipping, etc of smootop surfaces? Lots of prior discussions of this here including this one which, for anyone interested, has links to many other earlier postings on the subject. http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2346300/causing-scratches-breakages-on-induction-cooktop >>>"the air between the pan and the glass can get very hot . . . accidents and burns when it escapes . . . cracking of the glass"<<< I don't mean the following as an attack on plllog. I, too, have seen some of the alarmist warnings that plllog describes where folks tell you what you are "supposed" to do or not do and what are the risks with induction. First, on the casting rings maybe causing problems with the pan-recognition sensors, that does not seem to be the case with skillets. Those rings are just not thick enough to elevate the pans enough to cause any problems. Where I've seen reports of problems has been with some cooktops and those reversible griddle-grill pans. (You know what I'm talking about -- the pans with smooth pancake griddle on one face and a ridged/rippled grill surface on the other?) Some brands of those reversible pans apparently had or have a very high lip on the "grill" side and the lip was high enough that when the griddle side was up (and the grill side was down) the lift was high enough to have confused the pan sensors on some induction cooktop a number of years ago. Last time I recall seeing a report of this problem was maybe four years ago. (Actually, IIRC, it might have been plllog who found that report.) Anyway, that grill-pan's lips were much taller than the casting rings on the skillets the OP was concerned about. Beyond that, I put the other kinds of warnings in the same category as other earnestly fearful but uninformed posts about induction. Fr'instance, I've seen any number of posters insisting that some European commission has determined that induction actually uses non-ionizing radiation to heat the foods and it is heating the food that heats the pans, destroys nutrients and adversely affects health. Other earnestly fearful posters have insisted that you must only use wooden spoons and such with induction because using steel utensils will somehow electrocute you. As for cracking, you obviously might crack a smoothtop by dropping a 7 quart, cast iron dutch oven full of water/soup/whatever several feet down onto any smoothtop ... well, you get the idea. The other stories about cracking surfaces actually originate in situations that have nothing to do with cast iron skillets, one about vacuum suction and the other about thermal shock. The "vaccum" suction theory might be be extrapolated from reports about folks pulling a large, hot, steamy domed pot lid off a pan, immediately plonking the lid rim-side down on the smooth surface. If the lid is large enough and the rim is perfectly straight, if there is enough steam trapped and the lid cools quickly enough, then a vacuum can develop. Large-enough lids apparently have produced sufficiently strong suction to have cracked a smoothop. There is just not enough room under any cast iron skillet for this to occur and it is unikely you could have enough liquid under it, either, without the burner shutting down and throwing an error code. The idea of cracking caused by "thermal shock" really has nothing to do with cast iron pans, either. Most of the reports that I have seen about thermal shock cracks have been with ultra-cheap portable induction cookers (PICs) that cut costs by using thin, tempered glass tops rather Schott "Ceran," the heavy duty glass-ceramic used on better PICs not to mention all smoothtop/induction ranges and cooktops. Ceran is designed to withstand thermal differentials of at least 750° F. Anybody heating pans that hot on induction has tampered with the control circuits & programming and is engaged in industrial metal smelting, not cooking. Other than that, Schott's products are mass produced and, like all mass produced products, there will be some tops with manufacturing defects that will break under use. That's a manufacturing problem, not a cast iron problem. As for superheated air burning cast iron users, again, there just is not enough air space under a cast iron pan and casting rings are never perfect enough for that to be a real problem, anyway.