We get similar warm spells up here including late frosts and even some late snow - eg., we had snow ~April 6/7 in 2003 & 2004. I think the one main difference between our areas other than the higher heat zone that you have, is that despite the warm spells, the ocean influence that inpacts us here in the coastal mid-atlantic tends to keep the average spring temps cooler over the long run and that helps to slow down budswell, even during warm spells. However I think that if you have a vigorous shrub, then even with the late frosts and freezes, that hydrangea can still get a good amount of bloom that will easily compensate for the loss of the more exposed flower buds during a frost. I think your planting site up against the foundation will make a big difference. Good luck as those are some pretty cultivars!!

I do my gardening in a zone 5/6. I have to protect all of the Macrophyllas if I'm going to get any flowers. I would bet that you shouldn't have too much trouble over the actual winter months. These plants can take the extremes of cold that you should be expecting. The real problem for you ( and me, too, actually) is the fluctuations. It's Luis' "ker plunks" that end up getting us. Dirr has said that he sees better flowering in a place like Cape Cod than he sees in Georgia, even though Georgia is a much higher zone. That's because, at Cape Cod, you don't get the ker plunks. The ocean, the native habitat of these Macrophyllas, keeps the temperature moderate. No ker plunks. Being relatively close to the ocean might save you somewhat. At least in many years. You don't need to worry so much about doing something before the first frost unless it happens like tomorrow or something. As long as the weather follows a moderate path into the winter, you wouldn't have any problem at all. I don't do anything here until after the frosts come. The real problem for you, I would bet, is next Spring. That's when the damage is likely to happen. Typical for us people away from the moderating ocean, just like interior Georgia, is for a nice long spell of warm weather in Spring, fooling the plants into thinking that it's all over, with the buds opening up, only to get zapped with the ker plunk that follows. If you want to take your chances and do a minimal amount of work maybe you should consider not doing anything elaborate over the winter, but be ready to run out in the Spring when we get that night or two of cold and cover the plants with sheets of plastic and/or some other insulating material. Nobody said it was going to be easy. Fun maybe, but not easy. Good luck. Hay

I wouldn't go by the lowest temps that have been happening in recent years. I think thats where part of the problem is with the USDA zones. They only used part of their data. Although they do have a reason behind it, I still think that for the areas that do have more data they should have just used them anyway. Thats too small of data to be very accurate in my opnion and do not take into account if they have been recording a warming or cooling trend. And if thats the case are they likely to continue? And what about record cold winters and how often they will play out? Its hard to say. But what I like to do is look at as much info as I can and take the average of all data collected about each years low in an area. I tend to think it is more accurate and gives a better picture of whats going on and what to expect. The USDA is just one tool or a guide to help you out.It may have its erros. But at least it narrows down the list and keeps those that don't know so much about gardening from wasting money on things that will never have a chance.(although that doesn't stop people like me from zone pushing or trying anyway. lol)It was never meant to be set in stone. Each year is different and so is each area. Best ways to truely understand your zone/climate is trial and error. As well as looking around and see what other people are growing long term. But I am down for a better system. Anyone else? lol Unfortunatley I don't think any system will ever truely be accurate. Theres just too much to consider other than temps. Youn have soil, elevation, moisture, health of plant and list goes on. And not to mention each local micro-climate... - US_Marine

Thanks. sorry long. Last long post. Hope you like talking about ground covers. This isn't sand by the way. I think pachysandra, vinca minor, and English ivy are by far cheaper and easier to get as plugs vs the ones suggested but I have to call around if that option is perused by the homeowner after we talk. I've seen unmaintained pachysandra in NJ under maples and it wasn't bad. Saplings can be cut/pulled when reach about a foot tall. But I read others say they get thousands of saplings and that preen or corn meal gluten pre-emergent would be needed, neither of which is an option for this house. They only want organic but don't want to spend on corn meal gluten every year which can get pricy. But anyway, in full sun like we're talking, I read pachysandra will grow poorly or die if the soil conditions etc aren't great and without watering or fertilizer and mulch (you can mulch it at first but it will turn to soil in a few years but then you can sprinkle more mulch or bagged mulched grass/leave mowings etc after to keep the moisture in and not need to water as often). the same full sun situation goes for English ivy but I read it might do a bit better in full sun than pachysandra. I don't know the USDA zones those people are in though who claim this, could be hotter there and more likely to do poorly. With poor growth in full sun, weeds can take over easier, and it won't recuperate as easy from winter stress especially with lots of full un-mulched leaves falling into it which will happen at this house. I read Vinca aka vinca minor, aka vinca bowels aka periwinkle does good in full sun (and dense shade), and it's cheap. But I read it spreads like crazy underground and don't want it to take over the existing shrubs in front of the house or the neighbors' lawns. It's an invasive problem in the woods and stuff in parts of the country becoming a mono crop type problem. Although here's a picture of it next to grass and I see none in the grass but maybe they are killing it selectively with a broadleaf-only killer. http://www.onlineplantguide.com/Plant-Details/2771/ Pachysandra also spreads underground but I don't think I've ever seen it take over or even show up in a bordering lawn where no herbicides were used. This thread seems really incorrect: http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/1917442/my-neighbor-planted-vinca-minor Basically someone was worried their neighbor's new vinca minor lawn would take over their perennials and shrub yard. I read vinca minor is a rhizome but Someone replied "Since vinca spreads by rooting along its stems, just pull up the plants that venture outside the bounds. It is far easier to deal with than aggressive groundcovers that spread by rhizomes or underground stolons like ivy, hypericum, gallium or lamiastrum". And they said just a stout river rock border would keep it contained, and that it doesn't self seed, which I'm not sure if it does or not. don't want thousands of these seeds blowing on the neighbors' laws and growing. I'm reading a lot of articles/people say you need roundup or lots of vinegar and digging etc to contain vinca. This homeowner doesn't want to use roundup or any chems but they are okay with vinegar. I wonder if they just need maybe a few $3 gallons of vinegar each year and a sprayer to contain about 300 feet of vinca minor edges. I read vinca is really tough though even against roundups. Home Guides has an article saying you can just use 3" landscaper plastic edging and it will stay contained. People on forums said it will grow up and over no mater how high the border is but said they just mow it back and it stays contained. Maybe just an electric weedwacker can be used to scalp the edges once a month by the homeowner. This person says they maintain the edges simply by mowing and it looks great. http://tallcloverfarm.com/1398/periwinkle-vinca-major-covers-a-lot-of-ground With grass, if someone doesn't want to water, I still suggest to water it at least a full year (with an inch all at once, once per week, rain included) because that will grow deep roots and make it less likely to get wiped out in a drought once they stop watering. But if it still dies it doesn't take much to slice seed grass again for decent results (won't look like they spent thousands on sod or did follow up slice seedings and aerations every couple years with just one slice seeding but it will be decent). I would give the same watering recommendation for groundcover, preferably more than a full year until the watering stops and also to water some in mid summer if hasn't rained. I think the homeowner's goal is equally: -to be environmental and not need water or fertilizer once established and not have mow or pay for mowing or need much maintenance, especially with machines/mowing - them just hand pulling/pruning once or twice a year is okay. -have a cool looking yard The back yard and side also they wanted groundcover, and adds like 5X more to the Sq footage, so I think either way they will have to mow because I doubt they'll splurge for doing the whole yard as groundcover (all but the front main area we've been discussing is shady though so pachysandra would do fine for the rest). Maybe I'll till the front this year, put 3" fresh free woodchips, plant vica and then next year or the one after, I'll till the back and sides and propagate the same vinca. they have a wooded area in the back so they have to make sure it doesn't take over the whole thing back there also. A good point: Meaning that in the back where there's woods, they should leave a good ten feet as lawn how it is now and prune it back there to not let it get into the wooded area "You mention that mowing seems to keep them controlled; I believe that to be true. It is when they are established next to, or in a woodland that they go crazy, choking out native plants of all sizes. I would humbly suggest that they should be used only in areas where their growth can be limited by mowing on all sides or contained by features such as pavement areas" http://mikesbackyardnursery.com/2014/06/vinca-flower/ I think the only thing left I have to research is if it can get all weedy if not re-mulched every few years. It can I read but I have to see if there are certain situations that make this more prone to happening - I think a lot of these people might have just not used enough mulch to start while the vinca was establishing and ended up with dense patches or weeds. Weeds would be fine, just don't want the weeds to actually take over the vinca, like grow taller than it and look like 1.5 foot of weeds. so many people are like snobs against vinca. looks good to me http://www.lodi.watersavingplants.com/GardenWorks/Photos/396.jpg and is a win win for no watering or mowing or chems etc any input thanks again