Hi, It's not exactly the ceiling; it a window between the kitchen/dining room which has a top to it where the hooks will go. First time I did it, I wound up making several holes before I put the 2 screws in trial by error. Now I'm painting, the holes have been covered up and I want to hang the stained glass panel up again. It's not that heavy, but the reason the hooks won't hold it is because the wall isn't strongly attached to the top portion of the window. When I bought bigger, ugly hooks, I guess they were long enough to attach to something (at least one of them) that would hold it up. What is the correct kind of screw do I get to correctly anchor them to the wall upside down to hold this panel? I think it's drywall..but I'm not sure. It also happens on the walls sometimes, and I can't always screw into the studs depending on the where I need the hooks to be. Thanks. Trudijanen@gmail.com

Kerdi is a complicated waterproofing set up that is just not needed in a residential non steam bath. It actually creates more possible issues with adhesion and you would have been better off just hanging a plastic sheet behind the cement board. Problem you have now is if you pull some tiles you pull the Kerdi. Scuhluter is one of those products that is promoted all over the internet and the Co uses forums to promote their products. problem is DIY'ers don't have the skill set or experience to use it. Any pro using it has had to test their install methods as you have to be assured that it is adhering to the wall. I just don't get why with all the roll on waterproofing methods outside of a steam shower or a high-rise install. It might sound crazy to a DIY'er but I would redo the smaller wall. Yes you will disturb the Kerdi but you will also correct that gap issue. Move the tiles over to the left by cutting the lowest one the size of the gap on the top and then run a plumb line from the outer edge of the lowest tiles right side edge. This will have you cutting the tiles up to about midpoint and then you should have the correct grout line. I think the corner upper portion gaps are just too big. A trick to correct uneven gaps is to run two pieces of tape parallel to each other using the widest gap to space them. What this does is make the gap look uniform top to bottom. Use non silicone color matched caulk and do in two steps First as just a fill for the gap and the second as the finished bead. The bead has to be pressed down after you pull the tape or it will lift off. Good luck and spending time now will save you a lot of work later. Even pros have to redo jobs. Where is the shower head?

Oh boy. This is where things get ugly. We have to 'split' the blame into small measurable units. Here we go. The homeowner picked the tile (was it rectified? Square edged or eased edge?) and the grout (I'm assuming you picked the COLOUR and not the quality?). You picked the FINISHES. OK. The 'look' is on you. The GC chose NOT to QUOTE for the subfloor work (preparation should be $2-$4/sf x 2200sf = $4400 - $8800 for this job). Which means you did NOT pay for subfloor work. A wonky subfloor = wonky tiled flooring. As cruel as this sounds, you got what you paid for. $0 paid subfloor prep = $0 owing for subfloor prep offered. Next point: The GC picked the STRUCTURAL MATERIALS. That's on HIM. His choice of 'thinset' (LFT requires a different technique) was wrong. That one's on him. His installers did NOT use the proper spacing requirements. Again, the GC OWNS the work his subcontractors produce. Again, this is on him. At this point, this requires a redo. And I mean complete gut and removal, repurchase (if the grout has not gone down you might be able to salvage ++ of these tiles....*might) and reinstall. The GC owes you: Replacement tiles for the one's that cannot be salvaged Proper thinset/mortar materials PROPER TILE SETTERS not just 'some guys' who use a trowel!!! His workers = his headache! Proper leveling system and staggered 1/3 off-set tile setting Quote for subfloor preparation What you owe the GC: 1. Payment for subfloor preparation (budget for $2 - $4/sf...just to be safe) You did not pay for subfloor prep. Sadly, both of you owe this to one another. The GC needs to FINISH his quote and you need to PAY the price for subfloor prep once the final bill (labour + materials) come in. As someone in the flooring industry, I have seen enough flooring mistakes to last a lifetime. This is an expensive lesson that the GC MUST LEARN. Don't feel 'bad' about this. Obviously he's skated by on flooring up to this point. He thought he could do it again...but he thought wrong. Now he pays the price for not knowing something he ought to have known. What you owe yourself: A critique of the overall work of the GC. You need to ask yourself if your GC messed up on such a massive job, is there anything else they messed up on? I do not wish to scare you, but a bad flooring job could be the indicator for other problems with this build. Please make sure you move cautiously with any of the other work that has been done or is supposed to be done in the future. Obvious places to look: Plumbing and Electrical. These require expensive professionals (in a hot Canadian market a Red Seal Plumber or Electrician bills $180/hr = more per hour than a Family Physician = $122/hr). A PROFESSIONAL tile setter is one of the other BIG EXPENSES on a build. They are so expensive that many GCs (yours included) will try to save money by using 'guys who swish a trowel'. If your GC cheaped out on tiling, what else did he cheap out on?

@Tim Cleary the tile was supplied by bolic‘s distributors to the contractor . It’s the distributor he likes to use. Ironically, at the start of the project, i told him i could get white subway tile at lowes or Home Depot for cheaper than the tile he wanted me to use. His response was the dye lots are often noticeably Difft from Lowe’s and Home Depot and that working with Lowe’s and Home Depot was a nightmare. So i said ok. His wife asked me if i wanted textured, matte, or glossy and i said glossy. She brought an interceramic sample board over of glossy colors for me to choose from. I chose universal white and asked if there was a larger piece/a whole tile in universal white that i could get from Bolics to take with me to the slab yard etc. she brought me a 3x6 in glossy universal white and a 4x8 in glossy universal white. the lighting isn’t bad in the bathroom. There’s a 56” x40” west facing window above the Tile wainscoat. But i admit i didnt notice until it was grouted. grout and lights went in on the same day so i think the grout is actually what made it noticeable. The matte is matte and more gray while the glossy is a brighter white and is glossy. i’m ok with the time frame. My husband is annoyed, but it is what it is. I just feel bad that they will have to redo so much work at their expense. I wish i had noticed sooner. here it is today with no lights on. There’s plenty of light in the room. here’s a pic from today with only natural light from the windows. You can clearly see on the wall that is grouted that there’s 2 difft tiles. but You can barely tell the difference on the wall that isn’t grouted yet even though it has just as many matte/wrong tiles as the grouted wall. The grout is what made the different tiles obvious.