Well, I definitely DON'T recommend the London Farm Sink by Porcher (American Standard). Mine started pitting a lot after 18 months of gentle use. The warranty was for a year, and Porcher basically told me, "too bad for you." Lousy company! Now I have a Shaw's/Rohl. I chose it based on their reputation, based on the thick, substantial lip/edge, and because they offer a patch kit! It isn't perfect (very wonky in size--uneven corners--hard to install, drains poorly). But it is beautiful. It has been in for a month, and my dearest husband already made a teeny chip in the bottom. On the one hand, I hate having to be careful when putting, e.g. cast iron cookware in it. I'm always worried about damage. But I've wanted one for about 15 years (ever since I first saw one), and I couldn't be happy with anything else. Copper sounds wonderful! I'm guessing you can bam your pans around in that! Francy

For our exteriors on cedar wood, we are going to use the Sansin SDF 1/2 Onyx. Its a little more black than it is charcol/dark gray/slate in color, but it's semi-transparent so let's the wood grain show through. We haven't applied the stain to the front of the cedar - so I don't have a picture of the end results. But we are staining the back/sides before putting the cedar on the house so I'll try to attach a picture of the cedar as is and the cedar with the Sansin stain. FTR, the exact stain specs: Sansin, SDF Base 0, 1/2 Onyx, SYO-5.75 SRO- 1.5, SLB-20. . We got it from Grey's Paints in Burlingame (SF area), they recommended the Sansin over other brands for exteriors.

Ohhhhhhh.....miiiiiiiiyyyyyyyyyhhhhhhhh. OK...you will need to know that ELECTRIC in-floor heat is NOT allowed with 99.99% of hardwood floors - engineered or otherwise. Yah. Sigh...No one explained that I'm going to guess. Do NOT listen to the 'radiant heat' sales pitch about it going under 'any floor you want'. They say that...but they know darn well that electric is normally not allowed underneath wood. Why not? Because of the fire hazard. Wires + electricty + flammable materials (ahem...wood) = bad idea. If you are paying the BIG BUCKS for hydronic (water/gel/oil filled tubing), then you have a different situation. The issue many people have is the height variance. ***IF, and that's a BIG IF**, the wood floor HAPPENS to be the 0.01% of wood floors that allows electric, you MUST have a slab of concrete over top the wires. Like 1" or so. Oh....noooooo.... That makes for a BIG step up. Now you have to add in the ACTUAL thickness of the wires, and then the thickness of the WOOD. Zoinks! Now we **** could be 1.75" - 2.25" HIGHER than the hardwood floor in the rest of the house. First things first: which type of in-floor heat are you looking at? Wires? Electric MATS? Or hydronic tubing? What is your current flooring in the kitchen? Why would you need in-floor radiant heat with a warm wood floor? I can see the want for tile or stone....but wood is a semi-conductor (another reason why you do NOT want electricity running a millimeter below (1/32") below a wood floor....wood can CONDUCT electricity if the wood is wet!). That means it holds warmth better than it lets it go...but it will still let it go....slowly. A bit more info about what you are trying to do with your kitchen would be REALLY helpful.

@HU-831132967 so if I am understanding your comment correctly: Good quality door fronts: Scherrs, Conestoga Low quality door fronts (assembled w/ cabinet box): Wolf, Quality, Aristokraft Low quality door fronts (w/o cabinet box): Semihand Made