R S, yes it felt smooth, but not "slick" smooth. It does have texture, but nothing like hand-scraped. You can feel the texture of the wood through the finish. I had the Lauzon wire-brushed sample and a sample of the Hamptons series "natural" white oak here at the same time. The Hamptons sample is not wire-brushed and has a semi-gloss finish. I could not feel the texture of the wood under that finish. They definitely felt different underfoot and Hamptons flooring was smoother feeling. The wire-brushed is really beautiful. I would not order a whole house full of flooring based on the sample, though, because I'm not quite sure it's a true depiction of the actual flooring. I've always believed that flooring companies use their very best material for the sample boards, so I'd want to look at a full box before committing. If you do get a box, be sure to post what it's like!

I prefer site finished. It is easier to refinish when it needs it. Your friend has probably done "buff and coat" procedures. This is normally done ONCE and then a FULL sand and refinish. If your friend has been doing the buff and coat MORE THAN once, then she's doing it "wrong" (could be "right" for her, but it isn't the regular way for hardwood). Traditionally the FULL sand and refinish occurs around the 20 year mark. So the floors, after 20 years SHOULD look like this. That's kinda what tells you "it's time". A buff and coat only adds a coat of finish (to freshen up the floor). It doesn't "correct" anything. The FULL sand and refinish will do 10 TIMES more for the look of the floor than a buff and coat. The sand/refinish will strip the old finish off and then carve off 1-2mm of WOOD. That means 99.9% of all dings and gouges will be taken care of. The "dirt and food in between" (the planks) is MUCH MORE likely to occur with factory finished floors. These floors have bevelled edges (a little shoulder on every plank that creates little valleys between each plank). But it can occur with floors SHRINKING from LOW humidity. The floor can create little gaps between planks. That's normal if the humidity is too low or is uncontrolled. The THINNER the plank, the LESS the wood will/can shrink. That's why narrow/strip hardwood is the BEST option for uncontrolled humidity. Those big, beautiful, expensive, wide plank products that are SUPER trendy = not an option for uncontrolled humidity. A factory finished hardwood (with Aluminum Oxide = AO) is going to be SUPER expensive to refinish and here's why. The AO finish is SOOOO tough (how tough is it SJ?). It is SOOOO tough it takes 2-3 TIMES the amount of effort/material to strip it from the wood floor. Once the AO is gone, the wood turns into a normal hardwood floor. And just for fun, the 'refresh' buff and coat is almost IMPOSSIBLE to do. Even the toughest finish looks tired around the 15 year mark. Sadly, AO finishes often prevent a recoat (the finish is chemically very slick...almost nothing sticks to it = HELL to add '1 coat'). The average cost of a full sand/refinish = $5/sf. The average cost of a sand/refinish of AO = $7-$9/sf. Yes. It is THAT TOUGH to remove. A traditional buff and coat = $2.50 - $3/sf. So if you do the math, the site finished hardwood may cost a bit more on day 1....but by year 30 it will be MUCH cheaper/easier to deal with/live with. It allows you to freshen up the finish around year 15 (if you wish). It allows for a routine sand/refinish without adding a HIGHER COST of labour. So "cost effective" today can be much more costly by the time you plan on refinishing. In fact, so many people look at the extra costs and figure a new floor is cheaper....and they are right. Sigh...so there goes the idea of using up all the life on the hardwood (3/4" solid hardwood). That goes out the window when the owner realizes the costs are much higher and they choose to rip it out and throw it out; thus negating the benefit of a solid hardwood!

As far as I can tell, you have layers of yellow tones. The wood tones appear to be tone-on-tone. Which, if you must have multiple species of wood, then this is the way to do it. As for staining maple and pine/fir...good luck. Neither of these woods like to take a stain. And both like to turn a stronger colour as they age. One of the few ways you can change the colour is to go DARK. Not mid-tone....but dark. And even if you wished to have dark floors, you still have to find the professional who can get BOTH types of wood to take a stain in the same way. That's an art for in itself. Just to get the floors the same colour, you will be paying "top shelf" for one of the best wood flooring professionals in your area...possibly your state. There will be a handful of professionals who could handle this in a mid-sized city (200,000 people). I'm sorry to say but the charm of this property is the light, airy Scandinavian-inspired use of wood. I would wait until the home is empty before making any decisions. Adding in paint to the trim will be one way of reducing the amount of wood you can see throughout the home. That might be the better way to go. If you are having a hard time visualizing any of this, you may want to engage a colour consultant/interior designer who can help you see the possibilities. A home like this would benefit from professional talent.

What I might do is a) look at real estate listings in your area and see what kind of flooring they’re using and b) check with your neighbors. I like the Next Door app, I’ve gotten great recommendations from my neighbors for all sorts of stuff.