Obviously none of the people who have responded have even a remote clue about how to properly size a line. When designing a potable water distribution system you begin by selecting all the end use fixtures to determine what the end use load will be. In the case of the original post they want a shower head, body sprays, a hand shower and possibly a rain shower head. Quote:"How many fixtures will you have on at any one time? Remember that 3/4" pipe has double the capacity of 1/2" pipe." Code requires that we design a potable water system for a worst case scenario. The system must be capable of maintaining the code listed minimum fixture "Dynamic head pressure" even when every fixture in the house is turned on at the same time. The statement that a 3/4" pipe has twice the capacity of a 1/2" pipe is not true. The capacity, or properly the volume of flow is determined by the size of the metering orifice in the end use fixture. It is true that a 3/4" line has double the cross sectional area of a 1/2" line however both will supply the same volume, the difference being that the velocity of flow will be twice as fast in the 1/2" pipe. The problem here is that as the velocity of flow increases the "fiction head pressure loss" increases dramatically. In addition to the loss of pressure due to friction head if the velocity of flow exceeds 8fps we start seeing sever pipe wall erosion, which leads to premature pipe failure. In fact, while acidic water is the leading cause of pin hole failure in copper pipe, excessive velocity in undersized pipe is the second leading cause of pinholes. Preferably we should have the end use fixture data available when designing the system but in situations where that information is not yet available we use the gal/min flow rates that are published in the code. Now getting back to the original question. All the end use fixtures in question are types of shower heads and per code shower heads are restricted to 2.5gpm so let us begin putting it all in perspective. Using the code standard of 2.5gpm we get shower head (2.5gpm), hand shower (2.5gpm) and body sprays (2.5gpm)equals and a hand shower(2.5gpm) for a total load of 10gpm. Consulting the "Type L Copper Friction Loss Table" we find that if we supply this shower with a 1/2" line the velocity of flow would be 13.80ft/sec and the pressure loss would be 67.72psi/100ft of pipe. If we increase the pipe size to 3/4" the velocity of flow is 6.62ft/sec and a pressure loss of 11.17psi/100ft.

It is a short flex vent that goes directly out the wall. The vent may be about three feet long. It was not crushed. I've tried pulling the dryer out from the wall more. I have taken the duct off and cleaned it out with a vacuum attachment. I had the unit repaired recently and it started doing this. I called f&p and was told it sounds like a problem with the sensor and that "it should have been checked during the last repair". She said the work that was done was warrantied. I will look at it more and see if I can find any type of obstruction. I had the lint housing replaced recently and the lint filter. Also the bearings were replaced. From what I recall before the repair it only had to be manually reset one time. Now it is a constant thing. Thank you for your help. I will check again and see if I can find anything wrong. Cindy

Bobo has become my favorite hydrangeas for the last 2 years. I have 2 planted in a full sun location in the fall of 2013, as 2 quarts (~ 1 ft tall) small plants ordered online since local stores did not carry them yet. Both gave nice and long blooms in 2014, and have been doing great ever since. The size is much more compact (~ 3'x3') so this is a big plus for my small chicago area lot. In spring time, I only sprinkle a little bit (1 tbs per palnt) of Miracle-Gro® Shake 'N Feed® All Purpose Continuous Release Plant Food. There are several kinds, I use the one with NPK 10-10-10. I don't typically use fertilizer but rely mostly on mulching well. I agree with NHBabs that these H. paniculatas need to have more sun for best performance. Mine is planted in the same full sun bed with cone flowers, Phlox and black eye Susan. I almost never water them so Bobo endures the summer heat and drought just as well as cone flowers, etc. I did notice that my neighbor's little Lime blooms much less as they are in a partial shade locations than my limelights (full sun). I understand the fun sun in zone 5 (chicago) may be different from other areas.

A few thoughts on your questions, while noting that I do not recommend particular hoods unless I have used them. There are manufacturers of custom hoods available, e.g., ModernAire, that can tailor a style to a particular application. Some research here by reviewing various hood threads as well as reviewing retailer and manufacturer web sites should provide additional clues. A tortuous-path-down-the-wall-interior configuration is likely to cause enough pressure loss that the flow rate may be only one-half the fan's rated (zero static pressure) flow rate, rather than the more typical two-thirds. In this case the canopy concept will be better. It will also be better suited for larger duct sizes. Without town demands for MUA, there are two other MUA requirements. Safety: The house interior pressure relative to the outside should not fall below -0.03 inches of water column pressure or the hood when operating may back-draft any combustion appliances that are present. This can bring carbon monoxide into the house. If such appliances are separately supplied by air without a path to the kitchen, or are not present, then this safety requirement is not applicable. Related to this is fireplace functionality; the effective pressure advantage between the fire and the chimney top is very low, and without a very good MUA supply, operating the kitchen hood at full power will probably back-draft the fireplace. Performance: No air goes up the hood without first entering the house. In the loop defined as cooktop to outside via the blower and back to cooktop via the MUA path, the overall pressure loss (sum of pressure drops) determines (via the blower's fan curve) what flow rate will be achieved. A large leaky house, or one with windows open whenever cooking, will have lower passive MUA pressure loss than a tight house. A restrictive MUA path (including any ducted path that is filtered against insects or dust) may require blower-boosted flow. Fantech supplies systems that may be suitable for your use. In some locales, MUA heating may be needed. Hoods are intended to achieve capture and containment of the rising and expanding cooking plume. Various factors determine how well a hood performs. For wokking, you should ensure that at least 90 ft/min air velocity exists at the hood aperture. This is equivalent to 90 CFM/square foot of hood entry aperture. So, aperture area times 90 is the desired actual flow rate, that has to be achieved at some difficult to determine pressure loss. If the MUA is good and the exit duct to the blower is fairly nonrestrictive, then a factor of 1.5 times the calculated actual flow requirement may be sufficient to pick a blower. Else, a blower achieving the desired flow rate at higher restriction pressure is needed. In other words, try to avoid choking the blower's flow rate by too much restriction in the exit path, or in the MUA path. Rising and expanding effluent that is not intercepted by the hood aperture will be mostly lost into the room to be removed slowly as the room air is exchanged. Grease and odor may be deposited on walls and furniture by the escaped plume. Attempts to improve capture by an increase in CFM in lieu of using a larger hood will be impractical. When hood overhang is limited, center rear cooking will be best to improve capture with a wall hood. kas