az1455.pdf says: " ... citrus wood is naturally strong and is not as likely to break under the stress of a large fruit load. Furthermore, citrus trees can produce fruit in all but the most shaded part of the tree, and need not be regularly pruned to allow more light into the interior of the canopy. Even when the crop load is heavy, individual fruit size is large, so pruning to reduce the crop load and improve fruit size is not necessary except occasionally with tangerines. ... "Nevertheless, citrus trees should not be left completely unpruned. Proper citrus care for the young tree should include sprout removal, and cautious elimination of weak limbs within the tree canopy.

I think it depends on what environment(s) or climate your tree will be living in. Not knowing too much about Michigan's climate (I assume this because of the MSU part of your - Michigan State University?) I may not be the most qualified to answer this. I'll just assume for the most part the tree will live inside for most of the year- 6-8months?. If this correct, AL's mix is probably perfect for your tree. AL's mix is best for indoor/outdoor trees spending most of there time in partial or some shade when outside(around 6hours of direct sun). If your tree is exposed to much more light(10hours+) you will find AL's mix is not Ideal for your tree. It will dry out too quickly. As with any soil type, its a balancing act. Not all soils are good at everything. So, as long as you have an indoor/outdoor tree and when outdoor it receives medium about of direct light it should thrive in that mix. The depth of the root crown is not low enough. It's probably not enough to require a re-pot but, that's probably the best thing to do. If you don't want to re-pot you can push some soil up around the crown to cover it, creating a small pyramid type shape. As far as fertilization rates Its probably best to fertilize once a week and allow runoff, and in between watering with no fertilizer allow for minimum runoff. This way, for the most part the fertilizer is not washed away on in between waterings. Of course watch the tree and adjust as necessary.

The contraption below uses 18 watt CFL's. It has 12 of them. There is enough room for 16 *** 5 gallon bucket trees or one year i did 16 pepper plants in 5's. The walls of the box should be aluminum foil lined. This holds the heat and humidity in. In my case 50% of my heating bill is the meter charge before I use any gas. It cost just as much to heat with gas as it does with CFL's. Might as well grow beats, citrus trees and garden starts. If I lived in KY just 5 miles south I would not get that meter fee and it would be a waste of money. Might as well purchase my garden starts from home depot and buy my citrus fruits at Kroger's fruit department. Save my yard for apple peaches pears and plums. June 23rd my birthday comes. If you heat with oil, electric, or propane, It is no more to heat with CFL's. Might as well grow citrus trees in the basement. Pip is absolutely correct with his diagram for an open room. The center bulb can be remove with only a little loss to the trees. however if you use the container I use with the bright white/foiled walls you can do what I did. T*****T******T******T **L****L****L****L T*****T******T******T **L***************L T*****T******T******T **L**************L T******T******T******T The above was the exact setup for my pepper plant. I was picking peppers 5 weeks before frost safe set out date. It really does pay to grow green and peppers in with your citrus tree with the $$$$avings in organic produce and tree growth advancements. Notice the beets on the first level to provide heat for the roots of the citrus trees above. We had a death in the family and my wife collected many memories. As a result we have no room anywhere in our house and we lost the ability to grow greens. The greenhouse is not warm enough. Heating the greenhouse is $$$$$$$$$$$$ out of the question. The link below shows the things I did that REALLY WORKED WELL. Here is a link that might be useful: http://s1094.photobucket.com/user/wreristhechimney/slideshow/sunshine2013

This is a previous post of mine: It really does not matter whether you use a tall or squat pot as long as it is tall enough so that the PWT is far away enough from the roots. One advantage of a tall pot versus a squat pot is that the perched water table (PWT) is further down which makes root rot less likely. Some people say that citrus have shallow roots but I am not sure that I believe that is true, at least for all of them. I have two old trees in 18 inch deep pots and their roots extended to the bottom before repotting. The same is true of my younger trees in 1 and 2 gallon pots. The other trees I have were newly acquired and repotted and had not yet reached their maximum root length. Also, see this: https://static1.squarespace.com/static/50f58669e4b0439b230d566f/t/50f81933e4b0d6529ef9a512/1358436659157/INDOOR+CITRUS.pdf