UPDATE: The manager sent someone out (crazy thing is that they wanted to send the original installer? HUH...I specifically requested someone else, afterall how unbiased could the original guy be? I can hear it now...UM GEE MAAM, I really did do a crappy job, what a mess, I dont know what I was thinking to leave your kitchen in this state, I should have stayed in bed that day") anyway, they apparently attempted to reach him and couldn't so they sent a different guy. Who agreed, that this guy left it a mess. He was very efficient and proficient at "fixing" the hack job the other guy left. No new countertops, but without doubt much better. this new guy showed me the paperwork (which was a print out of all the communication from all parties on this "escallation" and what's ironic is that the original guy was finally reached by them and he reported that he did the cutting at the request of the store and ME and that he told ME that HE normally doesn't do this type of work, but I INSISTED that he do it anyway, so that I could get the stove put in. YA RIGHT...he did admit that he should have sanded the cabinets down, but didn't etc. anyway, he lied and he made a liar out of one of the store manangers who very confidentally proclaimed that his installers are qualified to do the cabintry work. I think this guy will not be getting all the referrals from them too much longer. I found out that Best Buy charges the contracting company $500 a day for these types of things...until they are resolved. So they were on it like greased lightening. Well anyway, here are some after pics. The pic of the front right edge which was cut way too deep, we used quickwood on it and IRL, it actually blends much better, it's a pinkish beige color very close to the counters. He put in place also the laminate counter top edges (precut for such an application) and that will seal off the counter from the inevitable water, grease etc from the stove. it was not a match, but it does help it blend better with the stove AND I told the guy it just might become my inspiration colors to use when/if I attempt to repaint the counters. NOW, I need to touch up the paint on the cabinet bases and change out the knobs and search for a new paint color and then consider what materials/paint I can get from SW before their 25% off sale ends :)

1. Fixing the leak shouldn't mandate any electrical code work. You can upgrade if you want. 2. Well, not quite if we're talking the US. All wall and countertop receptacles must be split across at least two dedicated 20A small appliance circuits. Dedicated circuits might be advisable for the smaller appliances (microwave, dishwasher, disposal, fridge) but NOT strictly required. 3. You're into the can of worms. If you have a fuse panel, yes you'd want to upgrade if you're going to do this other stuff. You'd just connect the older circuits to the new panel. You may find it advantageous to retain the old panel enclosure and make your connections there or you can put the new panel in exactly the same location. 4. Not strictly required, but again your'e in the might as wells. If you have electric hw, electric stove, electric dryer, and A/C, you're probably pushing the 60A or whatever service you have.

Yes, it looks like it was previously vented through the hole in the plywood and whoever replaced the roof was too unprofessional to install a new roof exhaust vent. There are many vent designs and here is one example: roof vent To fix this problem, you would need to buy a vent of the right size, cut a hole through the roofing material, run the exhaust pipe though the hole, properly install the vent, and seal all the joints with aluminum foil tape. It would also be a good idea to wrap the pipe in thermal insulation. There are a number of variables: 1. What kind of roof is this, and are there any obstructions where you would put the hole, such as a standing seam on the roof? 2. You'll need to get the pipe to jog over to the existing hole in the plywood, or cut a new hole directly above the end of the pipe. In either case, you'll need rigid wall fittings to extend the pipe up and through the hole. (Do not go with the flexible, cheap hose material that looks like a Slinky covered in plastic: these are crap, reduce air flow, and trap lint and grease more easily.) 3. You'll need to properly seal the vent against rain where its underside contacts the roofing material. How this is done will depend on the nature of the roofing material. If you have shingles, you would ideally have the hole located where the flange on the vent can slide under a row of shingles, and you will need to use sealant as well. There are plenty of videos on YouTube on how to install a vent, so you should watch a couple of them. But if you aren't sure you have the skills and the necessary tools, you may just want to pay a professional to fix this.

I have been thinking about all of your comments and have made some revisions to my original thinking, and I have worked with an IKEA person to re-do some of the plan. Doorways do not have interior molding and are just openings. I was told that it is virtually impossible to have a pantry set at a 90 degree angle to the fridge because there is no wall to hang the pantry cabinet from. So, that's out. I am leaving a full height pantry cabinet to the left of the fridge (to make the passageway into the kitchen larger), but I am making it 18" wide rather than the currently planned 24" wide. And I'm putting the microwave on the other side of the room instead. The fridge will have a side panel, and the 24" deep pantry will be set back from the front of the fridge so the fronts are not parallel. I am putting the microwave across the room in the corner to the left of the range. I had planned a standard wall cabinet there. Instead I will have a cabinet that goes down to the counter top. That cabinet will have two shallow drawers with an open cubby on top of them. The cubby will contain the microwave (this way I can just put in an inexpensive microwave). There will be cabinet doors on the portion of the cupboard above the microwave cubby. The photo below is the idea that I will be replicating (except I will have a small section of wall maybe about 20" deep that the left of the cabinet will butt into so it will be an actual corner. And I will have a flat counter on the peninsula rather than the raised ledge section.. Do you think this will work better? Ever since I began planning this kitchen, the microwave placement has just been a bear in terms of where to put it. When we were first starting to think about this project, and when shopping was easier, we did see the microwave that @wdccruise linked and liked it. I went back and took another look online at that option today. It could still be a possibility maybe, but there are some negative review comments about usability that bother me. And, we have to go with recirculating because this is a townhouse that has no way to vent to the exterior, and I have found some other hoods that do provide better function with recirculating. I really appreciate all of the thoughtful comments and advice you have given me..