I can see doing a wider french doored (or pocket french doored) opening to the left to increase the accessibility of the kitchen to the rest of the house, but PLEASE do not make the mistake of "opening up all the walls" in this home! Part of any older home's charm is the distinct closed off rooms that are cozy discoveries. If you do the fireplace "keeping area" in the lower ceilinged part, that will be the most highly sought after gathering spot in the house and you won't want or need to "open it up" to any other room. It will be a destination area. A retreat. As far as layout, it's a no brainer than the sink can go along the right where the tall windows are currently located and the range and fridge can go on the opposite wall. I like the idea of a farm table in the middle, but my back does not if you would use it as a prep area! I would need a 24"x36" prep area that was at least 36"-38" tall. Now, if the farm table were to be T'd off of that prep area, that would be the best of both worlds. That prep area could be a chunky created butcher block, or other antique cabinet. Good luck shopping! I think that's more than half of the fun of an unfitted kitchen.

Also look at this thread: What was Your Best Bathroom Remodeling Decision? And a more recent thread: What was Your Best/Worst Remodeling Decision? some things I thought of over the last few days: The bathroom is more complected to build than a kitchen in my option, because of the techniques involved with installing the elements. Of course layout and flow are considerations just like a kitchen. But in a bathroom there is the toilet and shower that can get difficult. If these two features have problems, you have problems. You are constantly managing water in a variety of forms, liquid and vapor, but hopefully not ice, lol. As you probably are well aware form follows function. Decide what you need to have the bathroom accomplish. I see that you have a walk in closet. Some people do put them in the bathrooms. I don't know how that works. There are several articles in the Houzz side of this site that are written on closets. They are informative and inspirational. I would try to have a W/D somewhere close to this area of the house. There is no reason you can't have 2 sets, one near your bedroom and one in the basement, or were ever. Over on the Laundry forum there is a lovely example Linus from Sweden posted on their laundry "rooms". Here is a link for fun: Showing My Laundry Room in Sweden 1) where are you putting exhaust fan/s? Besure to have enough gap under the door for "makeup air" so the fan can work effectively. You'll need to calculate how much ducting you'll have because that will impact what CFM fan you'll use. I call Fantech and they helped me figure mine out. They are reportedly good. There are other companies too. 2) Electrical outlets. I have one by my toilet at about 12" off the ground for an advanced toilet seat which, if you have a choice, is a must. Also electrical outlets within the vanity to accommodate hairdryers, etc. I have an outlet in my medicine cabinet too. I also have one in my small laundry surround so I can use an iron with the small pullout ironing board I have. 3) Floor warming wires, for the winter. You will love it. It only goes in open areas. Be sure to run it under the toe kick so you don't get cold toes. It does not go under the tub, unless they've changed specs. It is to be safely margined away from the wax ring of the toilet rough-in. Get the 240v, and lay an extra thermostatic probe under the tile, in case one goes bad, you'll have a spare. It just gets wrapped up and tucked in the box, ready and waiting for the first to fail. 4) If you are tiling your shower I would recommend porcelain over marble or other stone. The new porcelains are gorgeous and do not absorb moisture. Natural stone will take more upkeep. I used epoxy grout in my bathroom. It is not porous. Others have used cementous grout without problems. I would not use HD standard Custom Blend line for anything. People have had quality control issues, with color, etc. Laticrete is a great brand. There is Bostik that is very good. Mapei is good to I believe. If you have any detailed tiling questions, they can be answered by some on this forum, but it seems those members are not frequently posting any longer. They stop in from time to time. Go to the John Bridge Forum, for tile help professional scope. Be sure to know how a shower is put together from the studs out. You will need to know this! This is the biggest issue I have noticed on GW. People are always posting about dysfunctional showers and the poor tilers that do them. You need to do this homework before you hire it done or your GC hires it. Do not let work continue that is not to code or not to what you know to be standard work in the tile industry. There are standards and they need to be followed. You don't want to have to tear out a shower because of piss poor workmanship. 5) Benjaman Moore Aura Bath and Spa is a very nice paint. I've really liked the matte, velvety finish. 6) Plan your vanity to do what you want it to do. I keep my underware in mine. with my W/D being in the same room it made sense. DH gets his put in there too. Here is a link to my recent reveal that is long in coming, as the bathroom has been done for 1.5 years. My West Bathroom Reveal from Project in 2013-2014

Dear NewEnglandgal, Kitchen Design Advice You Might Consider Without having your existing kitchen layout to figure out what performance benefits you’d might like to keep. And what performance problems it has that you may want to resolve, fix, or eliminate. I have no way to know exactly where you’re starting from. Without an interview to determine HOW you want and expect to LIVE in your new kitchen I don’t know exactly where you want to end up. So it’s difficult to give you direction. That being said I reviewed the floor plan you posted to give you some more things you may want to consider that might otherwise not occur to you until AFTER your new kitchen is done and you can’t do anything to change it. 1. You need to understand HOW to read your kitchen layout, because it tells you exactly how you will live your life in your new kitchen day to day and when you entertain. Your architect should have already explained HOW to do this. Since they are not designing your kitchen it should be your kitchen designer’s responsibility. You need to know exactly what you’re looking at and understand what it is telling you if you are to make fully informed decisions about how you are going to live your own life in your own home. If you don’t know how to read your kitchen layout you’ll need to find someone who does that can interpret it for you. Otherwise you will be moving into your new kitchen with your boxes of kitchen items from your old kitchen, AFTER your kitchen is done, and all of your help is gone. And you’ll be left trying to figure out where all of your stuff is supposed to go in your beautiful new kitchen. That’s when you’ll realize that you don’t have a clue as to exactly how your kitchen really works. Or where all of your stuff is supposed to go, so you’ll end up adapting to what you got. So you put your stuff where ever it fits and as long as you know where everything is you’ll make do. Isn’t that what you did when you move into your last kitchen? So much for the unique, custom, just for you and your space new kitchen solution you believed you were getting. To avoid this problem create your kitchen item inventory checklist. Then when your kitchen plan and interior elevations are done, using your list locate all of your items. Doing this will save you from experiencing disappointment and frustration you may otherwise experience. You’ll avoid mistakes you don’t know you’re making. Your new kitchen will be much more efficient adding time to your life instead of consuming it. For a DIY solution to do this click the link below. https://www.kitchendesignco.com/new-kitchen-doesnt-work/ Most designers and clients focus on esthetics. How beautiful your new kitchen will be and not how it works day to day and when they are entertaining. So the focus is on getting the kitchen done NOT HOW the client is going to LIVE IN their kitchen AFTER it’s done, and for as long as they are in their home. Huge Mistake in my opinion because you really can get a new kitchen and a new, better, easier life than you’re experiencing now in your existing kitchen. And deep down isn’t that what you really want and expect to get? 2. You need to have a FINALIZED list of appliances that will serve you and your CHANGING Family needs for as long as you’re in this home. Appliance sizes are standard and fixed. Cabinetry sizes are flexible. If your appliances are inadequate you will have to remodel your new kitchen or live with its built in inadequacies. Without a finalized list you cannot design your kitchen. Rushing ALWAYS takes longer, you will waste time and money, and chances are very good that you’ll wind up with a kitchen everyone else loves, but doesn’t work for you. Every time you change an appliance the change or changes in size will ripple through your kitchen design. Potentially fixing one problem and causing others. Not an effective way to move your project forward. Decide on the appliances you’ll need until your next remodel and then design your new kitchen around them. 3. You should get to SEE and consider every possible combination of appliances and cabinetry that resolve, fix, or eliminate your current kitchen problems. Not consider one layout and try to justify it by tweaking it with good ideas. I believe this approach is working backwards, and in most cases will NOT eliminate your doubt and uncertainty you have about doing this project right. Based upon my experience You should get to see and compare at least 5 different kitchen layout options. For examples see click the link below. https://www.kitchendesignco.com/layout-laboratory/ I am showing you three that can be tweaked to produce many more depending upon who does your space planning. And what the kitchen performance problems are that you have that you want resolved, fixed or eliminated. 4. You should use 3D perspective drawings like these (click the link below to see examples) to make your design decisions, because the majority of people (this includes many designers) don’t really understand what their 2D plan and interior elevations will actually produce. https://www.kitchendesignco.com/kitchen-design-drawings/ Most kitchen designers use design and ordering software to produce plan, elevation, perspective drawings, and a cabinetry order list all at the same time. These elevations and perspective drawings “look awkward”, in my opinion, because they do not accurately reflect How the kitchen will “Look and Feel” in the client’s home BEFORE it gets built. That is until AFTER the kitchens are done and there is nothing clients can do. Because even though what they get is unexpected, the kitchen (not their kitchen they expected) will match their kitchen design drawings. And you can’t complain about getting a beautiful new kitchen without coming off as being completely ungrateful. So you’ll just live with a kitchen you don’t really want and make do. And For As Long As You’re In This Home! Not what anyone expects or wants to have happen. 5. You Should NOT focus on getting your new kitchen done to start your new life. You Should Focus on how You want and expect to LIVE Your New Life In It AFTER your new kitchen is done. 6. If you expect your new kitchen to last AVOID Everything Trendy, New, and WOW. The kitchen industry pushes the latest fashion trends to sell more kitchens. This is a fact not a secret. Trends change about every ten years. If you ever wondered why so many dated dysfunctional kitchens litter this country this is why. When the Trend your new kitchen was designed to meet CHANGES the esthetic appeal of your new kitchen plummets to Zero! No one wants a kitchen that’s dated. If you want your kitchen to Look the way it did when it was completed for as long as you’re in your home. AVOID the latest trends. To Be Continued…

Do you need you keep the shower? If you get rid of the wall oven and cooktop, and use a 30" range, you could put the fridge beside the basement door, and if possible (I don't know, but looking at the video it looks as if the shower is on the other side of the small pantry), recess the fridge into what is now pantry and bathroom shower. Then, if you can move the wall between the kitchen and laundry, it looks as if you can expand the kitchen that direction at least 18". I don't know if all that would be worth moving the fridge a few feet into the kitchen. Are the ovens 30"? We need a layout.