I think the thing that often looks off around here is the contemporary interiors placed in 100-150 year old houses. The renovation is often near-gut, so this is okay--often only the shell was salvageable, so it's a consistent interior. However, the prefinished or engineered floor is often so "slick" compared to the rest of the Workmanship, which is generally imperfect and sometimes borders on shoddy--that they just look strange. ----- In my 50 year old house one of the dilemmas I am facing is how to keep it modernist-slightly brutalist but also not try to do 1963 bathrooms (in particular) and kitchen. I don't particularly want formica in the kitchen--I want an undermount sink and it's small enough that I want the entire counter to be heat-resistant. What I really want to use again is soapstone. It's not that such a material absolutely would Not have appeared--I've seen some natural counters in older (highly "architectural") houses. And while this house is specifically architect designed, it was relatively purposefully filled with cheap materials because it was meant as an price-conscious alternative to the IM Pei houses a neighborhood to the east. Quartz would look the most like the originals --but I may be pushing the "organic modernism" aspects of the house a bit: there is a raw wood and sheathing ceiling at the top that is meant to reference the 18th and 19th century attic.

Yes, you've got MDF trim. MDF trim is less expensive than its wood counterpart and it's more susceptible to damage. In my opinion, it shouldn't be used for baseboards, casings or any trim application subject to mechanical damage. Proponents of MDF trim point to the fact that it's more dimensionally stable than wood. You might consider it for crown mouldings where there is minimal potential for mechanical damage, but I'd recommend you stay with wood for all interior trim.

So my neighbor just went through this when he sold his house because his house had some installed aluminum wiring. He was not aware of any issues with it (or even that he had it) until the home inspector for the prospective buyer noticed it and reported it on the home inspection. The buyer had an electrician come out and take a look and the electrician said it all needed to be replaced, (Note that the electrician was a young guy who had never encountered aluminum wiring before). His estimate for the house was ~$30k. FWIW I'm a have a degree in mechanical engineering and because I do a lot of structural work am now a registered structural engineer primarily involved with buried structures like concrete pipe, vaults etc. I add that only to say that I tend to research the reasoning behind codes as opposed to just blindly citing them and jumping to conclusions about the dangers of things that are not in "strict conformance with codes". Continuing...my neighbor hired an electrician to come out and assess the situation. His electrician (an older guy who had worked with aluminum before) said the retrofit for aluminum wiring is to swap out the terminal screw connections with a copper pigtail which was vastly different from snaking all new wire through the finished walls. His estimate was ~$7k. Truthfully I hadn't had any experience with it so I did some research online. My understanding is the potential hazard with aluminum versus copper stems from the large thermal expansion coefficient of aluminum relative to copper. Under use the aluminum will heat up and want to expand and similarly it will contract when it gets colder. At the "pinched" connections made when the wire is connected to switches, outlets etc. using screw connections the connection may loosen over time because of the cyclic expansion and contraction of the aluminum wires. if the connection loosens enough it may cause a gap across the connection which then could cause arcing across the connection when the circuit is in use. It is this arcing that could potentially start a fire within the wall. If the connection is replaced with a connection that allows for the expansion and contraction then the hazard is mitigated and the danger is no longer present. Practice for remediation of the connection is to use a slip-on type of connection to attach a copper lead at the end of the aluminum wire. the slip on connection does not depend on bends or pinching of the aluminum wire and permits the wire to expand and contract as needed. The copper lead allows connections to switches/outlets/other terminations the same as any other typical connection using copper wire. Sorry for the winded post but it supports all the other posts (except cat_ky) that say it's not necessary to replace all the wiring but connections should be remediated and I recommend that an electrician perform the fix or confirm that the fix has been done properly. Seems to me that the previous owner as an electrician was not overly concerned about the potential hazard (as the risk is not that great but there is a risk) until he was selling at which time he decided to to the repair. Hope that helps.

Thanks Patricia and Seabornman, this is the picture from the flat roof slide. 1/2 house in in flat roof and other 1/2 has low-sloped roof. there's a significant patch work already done by the flipper on the area where the pitched roof area meets the flatroof area. also, height to ceiling in the flat roof area is very low (only 7'8")