If the duck is fully feathered then you don't need to provide any additional heat (except in winter for very cold areas). 65 degrees F. is not cold for a duck. A one month old duck can easily handle 65 degrees. You don't need to protect it from drafts anymore either. I'd be more concerned about the heat since waterfowl do better in cool weather. Make sure they have access to shade and never leave them without water. A friend of mine recently lost her goose on a hot day because he tipped over his water pail. Your duck is likely healthy since its so active and well cared for. You probably don't need to disinfect their water containers that often unless there are signs of disease in their environment--ducks are quite hardy compared to chickens. One thing to watch out for is mold though--don't let them have moldy food or straw. Also keep in mind that many antibiotics that are safe for chickens are not safe for waterfowl so you would need to do some research. I've occassionally used grapefruit seed extract (GSE)without any problems. Its always better to start a treatment earlier in an illness rather than later.

OK, so I got brave tonight and started excavating. Underneath of the ugly linoleum and plywood layer there is another layer of truly hideous linoleum, which is the same stuff that was in our kitchen. And under that is what was a finished hardwood floor. So... Unfortunately, there must have been some water damage by the tub because there's a 1 x 2 foot section of just cheap replacement board. The original plan was to install hex tile.Should I still do that, or try to save the wood? It is full of that horrible black stuff from the linoleum being glued down and tons of staples. Suggestions how to get either off/out? I have tried a pliers on the staples, but they are old and brittle and just break off. With the kitchen we had hired a company to deal with that floor since we needed to get moved in. I have no idea how he got the gunk off. There are some visible nail holes in that floor as it is very light in color and he told me that the wood would not accept stain so I could not make it any darker, but I just consider the boo boos to be character. So, what do y'all think? Continue with the tile plan or try to save the hardwood?

First and foremost, one can never tell for certain how much rehab will cost until they start...as hidden defects can be found that can be far more costly to repair than anticipated. IMO, flipping is for those with know how and/or who have a pot of money to spare. In order to have the best chance of not winding up underwater on a flip, one REALLY needs to know what they are doing who has solid hands on knowledge of all the systems of the home..or have the money to hire someone who does..and they don't come cheap. IMO..best bet is to first have the home inspected by a highly qualified home inspector. That means one who has a license in good standing in your state if it is one that licenses the profession; the HI should also carry errors & omissions insurance that is in effect. The HI should provide a detailed narrative report with digital photos of any defects foundÂ..not a generic same day check listÂÂor a bunch of boiler plate. Be prepared to pay more than the cheapie going rate for an inspection that is truly meaningful. Last but not leastÂ...check references. Have the home inspected for termites and signs of termite damage either by the HI if he is licensed to do so as well (termite inspection is beyond the scope of a home inspection, and in many states requires proper training and licensing, or a qualified termite insepector. Also hire a firm that inspects underground oil tanks if the home has one in order to make certain it is not leaking...as such leaks have been known to cost in the thousandsÂÂsometimes millions, depending on just how much land needs to be cleaned due to the leak spreading. Be prepared to have to pay to have the tank decommissioned if need be. If it has a septic system, hire a qualified septic firm to make certain all is in order...which requires excavation etc. DonÂt let anyone sell you on a dye test onlyÂ..as that simply tells you the system is working at the momentÂÂwhich means it could be ready to crash at any time. In some areas, like here in NJ, a new septic system can run about 25 to 35KÂ..without complicationsÂsuch as problems finding another area that "percs" in order to establish a new leach field. At least one would then have a decent idea of any visible defects that may exist, that could also indicate the existence of more defects that may be hidden. Flipping is NOT for the faint of heart, or for those on a tight budget or for those who are not experienced general contractors who donÂt have the money to hire oneÂ. Expect to spend a good deal of money, time and sweat equityÂ.and be well prepared to deal with all of the permits that most likely will be required for much of the needed work. Visit your city/town's code official to determine code in your area...as once you start renovating, code issues that are grandfathered in as pre-existing usually have to be changed to meet current code. So..you may wind you having to change things that you thought could remain as is...which can be VERY costly. I strongly suggest that you research this VERY carefully on the web and in the library, and not move forward until you are VERY well educated on all of the pros and cons involved. That is the only way to "flip" responsibly, without losing your shirt....and even then in this market, there are no guarantees....especially if credit remains tight making it very hard for even many well qualified buyers to obtain a mortgage. Last but not least, talk to people who have renovated their own homes...and hear the tales of problems, unforseen complications, mistakes, delays etc. that have cost them to go way over their planned budget. That could give you a decent idea of what to expect. Prepare for the worst...and hope for the best.

After turning off the breaker, remove the cover plate, pull out the outlet and inspect the connections. There are basically three ways to make the connections. The quick connect devices have spring-loaded connectors that you just push the stripped wire into. They are frowned upon as problematic. There are connectors that you push the wire into and then tighten a screw. Lastly, there are devices that have only the old-fashioned and reliable screws. Look for loose wire connections, and burn marks. Smell the outlet and see if it smells burned. After you get done with that one, you might want to start checking your other junction boxes. It is a PIA, but if it were my house, I would sleep better. Keep in mind, however, that the reason all splices are made in boxes is to keep the house from burning down because of bad connections. Getting a book on basic home electrical might not be a bad idea. They are common in stores and you could check out one from the library.