I'm not sure if the OP is reading this anymore, but I did want to offer advice. I've been scraping (and scraping and scraping, you get the idea) wallpaper for so long. We're in the process of redoing my daughter's room and there were many many layers of wallpaper on the walls. I assumed the layers started in the 1930's, but on one wall, they put sheetrock over the plasterwall. It's some bizarre cardboard-like substance, so I guess in the 1950's- late 60's they just redecorated a lot. Anyway, long story shortened, when I got to the last layer on that cardbaord wall, it's stuck like glue over it. I got off all I could, scrubbed it, and my husband put a layer of plaster over the whole thing and it's now smooth as glass. I don't think this would work with many many layers, but my father in law has done this in the past, and after 20 years all is still good. I wouldn't recommend doing this in the more public areas of the home, but in the bedrooms it might work for you. It sounds like from your post that you are a thoughtful remodeler. I, like so many on this forum, cringe when thinking of "flippers" and the lack of care for history that many have. However, there are people who remodel who do a great job and do it not only to make money, but to improve their community. Those people are to be commended, because their vision helps create a longer history for that house in that community. I hope that you are able to bring that home to its former glory and find a family to love it.

You say that the drywall is breaking down. It normally won't break down unless it has gotten damp or wet. I think before you cover anything up you should determine if there is a problem. If there is correct if first. The plaster loosening up is fairly common. It could be for a number of reason, but I think you should still be sure that there isn't moisture problem there too. As far as covering the existing walls without removing the old stuff.....I have personlly covered I would guess 40 or 50 rooms and ceilings over the years without tearing out the old stuff. Is there insulation in the walls and will you ever need it there? Celulose can be blown in from the inside and, of course, that would be done first. If the walls aren't in too bad of shape I go over everything with 3/8" drywall and use lots of screws. Where you are going over plaster and lathe you will sometimes hit studs, but often just the lathe. The screws into the lathe will hold as long as you use lots of screws. Over the drywall you will have to locate and hit the studs with screws. Also on going over the drywall, you will have to end the pieces over a stud just as if you were applying it to bare studded walls. If you end it between studs there will be nothing to hold the edges and the job will be ruined. When I go over existing walls I make sure that any wiring that might be needed is done first. If necessary I make holes to run wire. If there are any real uneven spots on the wall I shim out the low spots with scrap pieces of 1/4" or 1/8" luan or paneling. I don't remove the door and window casings or the baseboards. I run the drywall right up against the casing and fill in any gaps with mud when I am taping. Now a lot of remodelers won't agree with going ovre the existing, but I've never had a problem as long as I've used plenty of screws that are long enough to penetrate the drywall or the plaster. If the walls or ceilings are terribly uneven you might have to use 1/2", but I've always used 3/8".

Hi, I've patched just a few plaster walls. My goal was to cover the hole and make it look good. 3x7 is a small patch. This is how I would do it. Cut a piece of sheetrock 5x9 (thickness isn't important). Score the back of the 9x5 piece 1 inch all around then break the 1 inch piece off the back then peel the 1 inch piece off the front paper. You should now have a piece that is 3x7 on the back and 9x5 on the front. Fit the patch to the hole . It may take some scraping you don't want it too tight. Spread some mud on the edge of the hole and patch and the paper on the patch. Set it in the hole a use a 4 inch blade to set the patch. Let it dry. Most times the patch will be a little lower than the original surface let the patch dry finish as needed. Good Luck Woodbutcher

Stripping most wallpaper, especially older wallpaper hung on plaster walls, is not that difficult to remove if, as has been mentioned, the wall has been sized. You can rent a wallpaper steamer, or do as I did. Buy one. (Well worth the money! I have used it to strip many rooms of wallpaper in two homes and have loaned it to friends.). Score the paper with a razor blade. Place the heated steamer on the wallpaper long enough for the steam to penetrate the surface of the paper, and then scrape away with a metal scraper. The paper should come off in ribbons. Be sure to cover your floors to protect them from the moisture from the steamer and the paste from the piles of paper. You might have paper with two layers. Take them off one layer at a time. Then, when all of the paper is off....scrub down your walls. (Back in the day, I used TSP!). You might have to go over the walls a couple of times with hot water to get off the paste residue. Then wait until the walls dry. And...paint! It takes time. But it is very satisfying to see the fruits of your labor. Good luck!