So if i was to T-bud now, would i be cutting my buds from this year's growth, and would it matter where along the branch i got my bud from (ie. tip end, mid-section, or closest to the point of attachment? And secondly, I understand the concept with regards to budding onto a rootstock, but when you bud onto the branches (like you are going to do on your 3-branched tree), where do you target the placement of the bud (top-side, bottom, how far along the branch,????). I'll definitely give it a try if i can get a little more feedback.....and thanks for taking the time with these questions.....

I actually like roses that sucker. I order from Pickering because I like THEM and want to show my support. But I was hesitant to try their roses after hearing that multiflora rootstock doesn't like alkaline conditions. However, I have had absolutely no issues with any of my roses on multiflora, even with both alkaline soil and water. So there must be something else I have or don't have/do that is different than say Jeri has/does that accounts for why roses on multiflora (or with its genes) do so well for me. Pickering hasn't updated their website about using laxa as a rootstock. I called last year to ask which of the roses I bought from them were on laxa and which on multiflora. The lady who I spoke with said none of the roses I bought from them were on laxa as they hadn't grafted anything on it (for I forget how many years she said). I expected that some were on laxa (and thought maybe that was why they were so happy in my garden), including the gallica Aimable Rouge, the damasks Duc de Cambridge and Pickering Four Seasons, the spinosissma William's Double Yellow, and the rugosas Wild Edric and Polareis. Not only are they not chlorotic but also Wild Edric (not even fed) and William's Double Yellow have particularly deep green foliage. Melissa

No reason to put them in the sun. It will take several days for callous to begin forming. Putting them in the sun will just draw moisture out of the scion at this point. Constant temperatures between 50-60 degrees seem to work best for callusing pome fruits.

So far it's looking good, you want to see leafing out before you can declare victory. Leave the parafilm on this year, next year it should be mostly gone by itself,..[I only use parafilm on the scion], ...http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/1512618/konrads-modified-bark-grafting