I can't speak from experience, but we were recently faced with the same decision. I liked the way the glass looked becase it seemed to open up the space more, but we decided to go with the stainless because we too were worried about the dirt/grease on the glass. Our designer warned against the glass saying it will look terrible if it isn't totally clean. Also my DH went saw a glass model in a store and it was covered in dust (as usual in a store) and it looked terrible. The SS model in the same store looked fine - and I'm sure no one was cleaning those. (Now please know I do plan to clean my hood... just not often! ;) ) Hopefully the SS will look OK between cleanings too. Hope that helps- good luck!

Either HDG (hot dip galvanized) or Z-Max are good levels of corrosion resistance. Standard G90 galvanized zinc is a low level of protection compared to HDG or Z-max. Stainless steel is the most corrosion resistant finish available. Ocean-salt air environments and some treated lumber requires stainless steel. If your PT lumber is treated for ground contact CA-B 0.21 pcf, ACQ or CBA with more than 0.40 pcf level of chemical treatment, stainless steel is recommended. The higher levels of chemical treatment accelerate metal corrosion. Always use the same type of metal or coated fasteners as the metal connectors. Dissimilar metals react and the PT wood acts as a catalyst.

You might want to consider the Lenova Permaclean SS sink. Not sure if its just a gimmick or not. I believe they OEM these sinks to Create Good which sells the sink under the UltraClean brand name (at a higher price point) This is one of the Create Good versions from Houzz [Traditional Kitchen Sinks[(https://www.houzz.com/products/traditional-kitchen-sinks-prbr1-br~t_436~s_2107) by Cincinnati Kitchen & Bath Fixtures Create Good This pic is from the Lenova website... Here is a link that might be useful: Lenova website

Note that "stainless steel" is technically known as CRES -- corrosion-resisting steel. How corrosion resisting and to what chemicals varies with the composition of the steel. If the recommended residential products don't achieve the desired result, then more aggressive tactics are needed. The goal, however, must include not changing the brushed pattern of the surface. Hence chemical means are preferred over mechanical means. Phosphoric acid based auto body cleaners sold to the body shop trade will usually clean steel surface corrosion. Although a mild hazard when diluted, safety directions must be observed. In particular, gloves, goggles, ventilation requirements aren't only for lawyers. As I recall, Coca Cola had/has some phosphoric acid in its composition, so one might try that as an experiment pending visiting a auto parts dealer. The products have names like "metal prep," or "metal conditioner."