Bump - I am in a world of hurry and sure could use some help. In one day last week, my dryer stopped working, the hot water heater quit and the painter who was hired to paint my cabinets, remove wallpaper and paint - sold his company and stopped returning my calls. The kitchen ceiling is already down and I have about 2 weeks to get some things done. Which may drive some decisions...... I started with only a small cosmetic update - and you may identify with me that as we've gotten into it, it's grown. Anyway, IF I can decide on a farmhouse sink and could get delivery in about 2 weeks, I would love to have one. I have been reading this website for a couple of yrs and I know about lead times, but I'm just hoping someone could answer one question at least today. If I have my laminate countertop cut for a 33 x 22" sink which I have now, can I swap it for another sink later? I will have to live with top mount - no other choice at this late date. Any guidance would be seriously appreciated. By the way - here's what happened last week... - the kitchen designer showed up and found me a painter inside of 20 minutes who came over an hour later and bid $600 less on the job than the first guy, the hot water heater had the vacuum hose knocked off from a kid standing a piece of wood next to it and falling over - so fixed in literally 1 minute and the heating Co didn't charge me for stopping by, and mysteriously, the dryer is still limping along which is good because I really don't have time for it right now. I felt like I had the Divine Hand handling it all because I didn't even freak with 4 different trucks in the driveway and total chaos.

IMO there are no pros unless you have a farmhouse which IMO is the only place they belong. Eh, I grew up in a rural agriculture community, and I grew up visiting friends and relatives in LOTS of old-old farmhouses. Kitchens that hadn't been remodeled contained sinks like these: People who had that first sink always had a curtain under it. Note that the water faucets usually came out of the wall, which is no longer common, especially in kitchens. My brother lives in our old family farm house, and -- yes -- he has an old-old sink similar to these above. His isn't original to our family's house, but it is appropriate to the house. What we call a "farmhouse sink" today -- what you can find on Amazon -- does not harken back to an earlier society. It's a modern twist on those old farmhouses.

@Kris E Please pay close attention to what @joseph_corlett said in the previous post. I think you might have your answer there with a custom sink. Furthermore, you could even ask for a custom sink to be made in a flush-mount style and solve this problem entirely with zero re-fabrication of the quartz required. I'll explain more about that in a minute, but first I want to point out that adding a faucet deck may not change the configuration of the quartz, but it certainly changes the configuration in terms of where the faucet is mounted. The faucet not only will now protrude from metal rather than from quartz, but in your case since the sink is undermounted, the faucet will be at a lower level than the quartz. I think this would be even further from what your wife had in mind than is your current scenario. In fact, I was trying to find a sample photo for you of what this would look like and came up empty handed because it just isn't done that often. It's more common to see a metal faucet deck on a flush mount or drop-in style of sink where the faucet can protrude at a level even with the countertop. Here's a sample photo of a faucet deck on a flush-mount sink: Moving on to the custom sink idea, Joseph has suggested that if you sacrifice the current sink, it can be cut out and thereby save you the risk of deconstructing your cabinetry to take it out in one piece. You haven't told us if your cabinetry was painted after installation, but even if it wasn't, there are different ways that cabinets are put together, and the sink base sitting in my kitchen right now prepared for installation for my own renovation is very solidly built with multiple methods and points of attachment of the face to the box, so it's my personal opinion that you are facing at the very least a risk to the finish by considering this option, but of course your technician on site would be better positioned to advise you on that based on how your cabinetry was built and coated. Joseph gave you a plan whereby you could go back with another undermounted apron-front sink which would require some re-fabrication of the quartz to work around the miter problem. Joseph has given you alternatives of either building down the edges of the full surround or notching the mitered edge, examples shown as follows: With the first option, you end up with a larger-than-average lip around the sink, although in your specific case the miter size looks to be within range of this being an acceptable alternative, and with the second option, my personal opinion is that the notch is unattractive. What I'd like to suggest as another alternative is a flush-mount sink, also sometimes called an up-mounted or top-mount sink, like this photo from Havens Metal: There is also the drop-in style option, again a photo from Havens Metal: I will tell you right off that I've done research on both these sink mounting styles, and the drop-in styles tend to develop crud at the lip. That's why kitchen design has so strongly trended toward undermounted sinks in the last couple of decades, due to ease of cleaning. The top-mount, up-mount, or flush-mount, whatever you want to call it, has a similar problem in that the division between the countertop and sink needs to be well-sealed and can fray over time, not to mention be a little more difficult to maintain in terms of cleaning than an undermount. However, the fireclay and other white styles of farmhouse, apron-front sinks are often mounted in an flush-mount manner, so this style of installation is something that is still done in modern design. Coming back full circle to Joseph's original suggestion to do a new undermounted apron-front with a notch at the side, here is an example of that very installation style from Havens Metal: The important thing is to know ahead of time what the look will be depending on what option you choose. There are many custom sink manufacturers around the country, but Havens Metal and Rachiele stood out in my own research for my kitchen renovation due to their quality and service. Havens used to manufacture all of Rachiele's sinks but separated out a few years ago and now focuses exclusively on its own line of products. Rachiele isn't a manufacturer but rather contracts its production out to other companies. [Correction: Rachiele recently established its own factory.] I chose the Prestige finish that Havens Metal offers which is a rolled, 3D finish that helps hide scratches and water spots, an important factor to me since I did select an apron-front style, and scratches and water spots can be especially prominent on stainless steel sink aprons. Rachiele also offers a similar textured finish. The pricing from Havens slightly beat that of Rachiele, and I felt comfortable working directly with a manufacturer that could communicate directly with me to customize any element I wanted which is why I ultimately chose Havens. Ask for Alex Havens when you contact the company if you go that route. Note that Rachiele also has a great reputation for customization via the owner Dino Rachiele. In closing, I will agree with what @Kelly Zamonski stated about apron-front sink planning being critical at the cabinetry design phase. So much of what happens at installation is controlled by the sink-to-cabinet ratios. If you weren't involved with decisions at that phase, then someone really dropped their responsibility with assisting you in this remodel. By moving forward with a custom sink, you can have the measurements made to retrofit your current space precisely. I'd also like to reiterate what I mentioned earlier in this thread, that what you have now isn't all that bad and probably something you'd get used to seeing over time. Please let us know if we may help with any more specific information. On an entirely different topic, after much research, I chose a Brizo articulating faucet with covered hose in Brilliance Stainless, a PVD finish, to go with my custom sink. You might check out the quality and function of that style if your faucet isn't selected already.

This is his response to me "If you would have shown me this picture and told me this is how I want my sink installed I would have installed it that way. It would have actually been easier for me. You made it clear to me that you did not want a top mount installation because you did not like the way it looked and it would have left a large gap between the doors under the sink and the sink itself. That being said I offered you this option and you agreed. The caulking shouldn't be lifting like that, for whatever reason it didn't bond properly. If you cant install the caulking i will come back out and reapply when I have a chance." In the box, we opened together with the installer with the apron sink the installation instructions were and I showed him those and also the photo from the IKEA website how I wanted it. He is bending the truth with an after-construction that I never showed it to him. If there were any problems we should have halted the installation to fix that instead of going through with something like this that causes problems. It is a drop-in sink yes. I spoke with another installer here locally, who is going to come here in 2-3 weeks to have a look. He also shook his head. He said maybe we can build up with wood under to stabilize the sink and lift it up, it might be the motion that is causing the caulking mostly to crack but he needs to see it with his own eyes first to see if it's even doable.