I do have the rounded front copper sink and love it. It's best if you can plan to have it pushed forward to show off the the sides. The front of the sink at the top of the curve is 29" from the wall and the sides are about 3" from the cabinet face. The sides curve around full height and stop about 3.5" back so you can support it from the underside. You will need to build a frame before installing the countertops. If you have an island or narrow kitchen make sure you have room for the curve. The deck at the back of the sink is 9" deep. I posted one picture on your other thread, but I'll add some detail photos here. Mine is 10" deep, I did consider the 8" but ended up going with the deeper and will use shorter doors from a bathroom vanity to replace the original ones which were in bad shape. This one is undermounted, but you will probably need to flush mount an 8" deep sink with the counter if you are trying to limit modifications to the existing sink cabinet. The sink and cabinet before Yuck, glad it's gone! The modified cabinet with 2x4 frame for the sink. We did have to cut a 1/2" off the face frame to fit the sink. Test fitting the sink around midnight before the new counters arrived in the morning. The flange of the sink needs to fit over the top of the 2x4 frame along with the sides slipping back enough to hide the edges so you have to plan the placement of the screws not to interfere with the sink. Detail of the granite rounded to show the top of the sink. This required a lot of thought and negotiating with the granite crew because if the granite goes straight you would have an odd shaped gap there. The installed sink and faucet --Yay! There's a lot more to do to finish the cabinet, but I'm really pleased with the result so far.

I do not have one, but I've wanted one! I cannot answer all your questions, but just a couple. I think the choice of double or single bowl depends a lot on the size of the sink. If you are going to go with the 30" size, then single bowl would be better - a double bowl sink in a 30" size may mean that neither bowl is big enough to soak roasting pans, cookie sheets, etc. If you go to a 33" or 36" sink, then the choice is personal preference and your cooking/cleaning style. I myself have a single bowl sink and would never go back to a double, but there are just as many people who would only have a double bowl sink. What have you used and liked or disliked in the past? The advantages of stainless apron front over the traditional fireclay apron front sink are: less expensive, easier to install (fireclay can have uneven dimensions and therefore be harder to scribe the countertops around it), lighter so easier to install, will not chip, and you won't need a drain flange for a disposal (fireclay is thick so in order to install a disposal you would need to buy a longer drain flange). Disadvantages are: the look is not traditional the way fireclay is, and stainless shows water spots and scratches (the scratches develop into a patina over time, so I wouldn't worry about that). Regarding faucets, there are SO many choices. I would make sure that you get a sprayer faucet so that you can easily clean into all the corners. I myself prefer a faucet with an integrated sprayer, rather than a side sprayer. You get better water pressure with an integrated sprayer, and a side sprayer means you have to hold onto the handle for the spray to stay on. Pay attention to the reach of the faucet - that dimension is available on all the brands' websites. You don't want the reach to be too short so that you have to reach far into the sink to grab it. I will link below to a thread with 100+ posts showing faucets, and you can see if any appeal to you. There was an interesting thread that I will link regarding SS apron front sinks, and whether to get a curved or straight front. It has some nice photos, and people also posted the names of their sinks, so I think it will be of use to you. I will link it below. As to brands, I have read on this forum that people really like their Kraus sinks and their Ticor SS stainless sinks; both are heavier 16 gauge. I think Ticor also offers stainless apron front sink with "zero radius" corners, which I would stay away from - those zero radius corners tend to collect gunk. Ticor also offer sinks with "tight radius" corners that will have a very slight curve, which would be easier. A nice kitchen with a SS apron front sink is Hobokenkitchen's. She bought hers as an inexpensive no-name on eBay. Thread Called Which Kitchen Faucet Did You Pick? Thread called SS Apron Sinks - Curved or Straight Front Hobokenkitchen's Kitchen with eBay SS Apron Front Sink Kraus Apron Front Sinks Ticor SS Apron Front Sinks

Realistically, that’s probably not going to happen. You can go for a slight positive or negative reveal, but a perfect reveal is going to be pretty hard to get. Add in that a Fireclay sink isn’t exactly going to be perfect, either, and you’re chances of it are going down even more. If she’s adamant about not wanting any sort of ledge or area where dirt can get trapped, a solid surface counter with integrated sink is probably the only way to achieve it. Signed: someone who has installed IKEA cabinets and farmhouse sinks in two different kitchens, with quartz counters. ETA: Not that a zero reveal is impossible, but you’re going to be paying a pretty penny to find a fabricator who is willing to do it, and do it right. And that doesn’t exactly line up with IKEA-priced cabinets.

@Kris E Please pay close attention to what @joseph_corlett said in the previous post. I think you might have your answer there with a custom sink. Furthermore, you could even ask for a custom sink to be made in a flush-mount style and solve this problem entirely with zero re-fabrication of the quartz required. I'll explain more about that in a minute, but first I want to point out that adding a faucet deck may not change the configuration of the quartz, but it certainly changes the configuration in terms of where the faucet is mounted. The faucet not only will now protrude from metal rather than from quartz, but in your case since the sink is undermounted, the faucet will be at a lower level than the quartz. I think this would be even further from what your wife had in mind than is your current scenario. In fact, I was trying to find a sample photo for you of what this would look like and came up empty handed because it just isn't done that often. It's more common to see a metal faucet deck on a flush mount or drop-in style of sink where the faucet can protrude at a level even with the countertop. Here's a sample photo of a faucet deck on a flush-mount sink: Moving on to the custom sink idea, Joseph has suggested that if you sacrifice the current sink, it can be cut out and thereby save you the risk of deconstructing your cabinetry to take it out in one piece. You haven't told us if your cabinetry was painted after installation, but even if it wasn't, there are different ways that cabinets are put together, and the sink base sitting in my kitchen right now prepared for installation for my own renovation is very solidly built with multiple methods and points of attachment of the face to the box, so it's my personal opinion that you are facing at the very least a risk to the finish by considering this option, but of course your technician on site would be better positioned to advise you on that based on how your cabinetry was built and coated. Joseph gave you a plan whereby you could go back with another undermounted apron-front sink which would require some re-fabrication of the quartz to work around the miter problem. Joseph has given you alternatives of either building down the edges of the full surround or notching the mitered edge, examples shown as follows: With the first option, you end up with a larger-than-average lip around the sink, although in your specific case the miter size looks to be within range of this being an acceptable alternative, and with the second option, my personal opinion is that the notch is unattractive. What I'd like to suggest as another alternative is a flush-mount sink, also sometimes called an up-mounted or top-mount sink, like this photo from Havens Metal: There is also the drop-in style option, again a photo from Havens Metal: I will tell you right off that I've done research on both these sink mounting styles, and the drop-in styles tend to develop crud at the lip. That's why kitchen design has so strongly trended toward undermounted sinks in the last couple of decades, due to ease of cleaning. The top-mount, up-mount, or flush-mount, whatever you want to call it, has a similar problem in that the division between the countertop and sink needs to be well-sealed and can fray over time, not to mention be a little more difficult to maintain in terms of cleaning than an undermount. However, the fireclay and other white styles of farmhouse, apron-front sinks are often mounted in an flush-mount manner, so this style of installation is something that is still done in modern design. Coming back full circle to Joseph's original suggestion to do a new undermounted apron-front with a notch at the side, here is an example of that very installation style from Havens Metal: The important thing is to know ahead of time what the look will be depending on what option you choose. There are many custom sink manufacturers around the country, but Havens Metal and Rachiele stood out in my own research for my kitchen renovation due to their quality and service. Havens used to manufacture all of Rachiele's sinks but separated out a few years ago and now focuses exclusively on its own line of products. Rachiele isn't a manufacturer but rather contracts its production out to other companies. [Correction: Rachiele recently established its own factory.] I chose the Prestige finish that Havens Metal offers which is a rolled, 3D finish that helps hide scratches and water spots, an important factor to me since I did select an apron-front style, and scratches and water spots can be especially prominent on stainless steel sink aprons. Rachiele also offers a similar textured finish. The pricing from Havens slightly beat that of Rachiele, and I felt comfortable working directly with a manufacturer that could communicate directly with me to customize any element I wanted which is why I ultimately chose Havens. Ask for Alex Havens when you contact the company if you go that route. Note that Rachiele also has a great reputation for customization via the owner Dino Rachiele. In closing, I will agree with what @Kelly Zamonski stated about apron-front sink planning being critical at the cabinetry design phase. So much of what happens at installation is controlled by the sink-to-cabinet ratios. If you weren't involved with decisions at that phase, then someone really dropped their responsibility with assisting you in this remodel. By moving forward with a custom sink, you can have the measurements made to retrofit your current space precisely. I'd also like to reiterate what I mentioned earlier in this thread, that what you have now isn't all that bad and probably something you'd get used to seeing over time. Please let us know if we may help with any more specific information. On an entirely different topic, after much research, I chose a Brizo articulating faucet with covered hose in Brilliance Stainless, a PVD finish, to go with my custom sink. You might check out the quality and function of that style if your faucet isn't selected already.